I'm in Northern VA, about 30-minute drive outside DC.  I've spent easily 10 hours searching for parts for this machine for the body and actually created a spreadsheet with each part number.  It's missing so much, right now if I was to buy everything either new or used available today it would cost $1,302 to put the machine back together with fenders, splash guards, front rack, this thing doesn't even have a freaking seat.  I'm actively looking for a donor machine and on PSN/eBay and other used vendors.  I'm not buying crap for this thing not even a seat, I can use the one from my Camo machine, until it runs and rides like it should though, unless someone has a donor machine for a few hundred with good plastics.  

The plastics can be had cheaper.  Look at 2014 Rubicon fenders.  Front is about $160 last time I checked.   You can also buy used flares, headlights etc.  05-11 Foreman and 05-14 Rubicon are all the same except for the left tank cover (left tank cover is cut for the shifter on the Rubicon).   That greatly opens up the used part market when searching for parts.   But yeah, get it running first.   Where are you located? 

It was weird in that the compression test at first showed 75, then when reset it never got above 25.  It also won't run unless one of the valve covers is off.  I read something you responded to like 12 years ago where the OP had issues that sounded very similar, and the timing had jumped one gear and after he replaced the timing chain and buttoned it all back together it was like a new machine again.  I'm going to tear the top end of this thing off tomorrow and if the timing is good then I'll probably just pull the engine from the machine and put it on the bench and go from there.  Really didn't want to get that far on a machine so clean with only 1300 miles on it, also with needing over $1,000 in body parts to put this back together after getting it running it might not be worth the total hassle.  

I have had a Yuasa battery in my Rancher 420 for almost 5 years.   It still seems to hold up, but being that old, I got a new one.   But I cannot decipher any date code on the new one.   I did try to order one online, but they said they were sold old (the computer indicated that).   When I got a message that they were in stock I went to the store and got a new battery.   But looking all over it, I can see no date code.   The reason why I'm concerned as, last year, I wen to Auto Zone to get a battery for my Jeep.  The clerk brought one over to the counter.  Date code on it was over a year old.  On a 3 year warranty battery?  I said, can you go back over to the shelf and get me one that is newr.   "Oh", he says, "we get them all at the same time so they all have the same date."     I then went over to the shelf and took the one on the back end which, according to the date code on it was about one month old.  And bought that one.   So, any ideas as to how to tell how old this Yuasa battery is? dc

I don't think that thing would run with compression that low.  There's a decompressor valve on the cam on most of these hondas that releases compression when cranking.     You really need to do any oil pressure test.  If you read this thread of mine, oil pump chain had jumped off and starved the top end for oil.   That whole engine runs off of that oil pump, and if the oil pump chain comes off, it's affects everything.    Do a little reading here.   Lots of info about the Hondamatics.  I'm trying to learn more about them, but @Brian Bertram is the expert, and he's the one selling this oil pressure tester on ebay.