It's a 2006 honda rancher 350 fe and I just ordered an oem master cylinder from honda for it so now just waiting on it

Just frustration setting in with this thing. Using a test light, there is nothing at any of the seven wires going to that switch. 

China parts are all garbage, no exceptions. You'll need to replace with genuine Honda parts, then you'll be able to bleed the air out. You can buy good used OEM Honda parts from powersportsnation.com if you don't want to pay the high prices for new ones.   What is the year and model of your Honda? There are a few tricks that we can share that will help you get the air out, depends on what you're working on though. Get genuine Honda parts back on it, adjust the brakes, then let us know what ya got and we'll help ya bleed it.

@shadetree is 100% correct! As you now understand voltage exists and current flows through every conductor in a functional circuit, including the frame. You can measure those voltages and currents using your multimeter, or confirm them with a test light. The "hot" wire in question is the one that completes the path to negative depending on the gear selection, which means that all seven wires individually and independently become "hot" at some point while shifting through the gears.   As I mentioned earlier, any fundamental misunderstanding of how electrical circuits work will always lead to misunderstandings later on in the diagnosis processes.   Again, not intending to be a jerk, just making a correction.

No, you were correct, you were testing the gear position switch for continuity to ground. Until you turned the key on that is..... at that point battery current flowed through your measuring device which terminated that measurement.     Yes there is.... in a functional DC circuit loop battery current flows from the positive plates in the battery until that current reaches the negative plates in the battery. Along the conductor path from those battery positive plates to battery negative plates current must pass through all of the wiring and circuit control components (which includes the gear position switch in this case) and the steel frame of the ATV. If any of those conductors fail the circuit loop is opened and current ceases to flow.     I think what many times confuses folks when it comes to understanding DC electrical circuits is that we tend to mix "Battery Negative" with "Frame Ground".... our minds assume that frame grounds are the end of the conductor path.... where in fact the ATV frame functions the same as any other "wire" in a closed DC circuit, since the Negative battery cable is attached to it.       "All it does is provide a path to battery negative" Fixed it for ya..... you're right about everything here, but fundamentally your understanding is flawed (which leads to making more mistakes inevitably), so I'm nitpicking ya a bit in fun.      The path to "ground" (Negative battery plates) did not disappear when you turned the key on, as evidenced by the Neutral light illuminating and other circuit indicators. What happened when you turned the key on is that you introduced DC battery current flow -- which flowed through the gear position switch into your measuring device, which caused your measuring device (multimeter) to cease functioning, as explained in an earlier post. The circuit worked fine, your multimeter got nuked though, which fooled you into thinking something bad had happened to the circuit.     It could be.... have you unbolted the negative battery cable from the motor and shined up the cable end and the aluminum where it bolts down? Have you removed and cleaned the ground cable that connects the motor to the frame? Have you removed and cleaned all of the wiring harness grounds that connect to the frame? Have you cleaned the coil and frame where the coil bolts to the frame?   I may sound like I'm picking on you but I'm not... and perhaps you've done the work already so I need to explain...... physically cleaning up all battery and negative ground connections should be done immediately after checking the fuses in dead circuits. It's the most important step in troubleshooting that folks must perform in my opinion, because I've learned through experience that a high percentage of ATV electrical failures are/were caused by poor battery cable connections and/or poor negative grounds. Poor grounds can even cause sensitive electronics to overheat and go up in smoke. So if you were to read the threads where I try to help folks find electrical issues you'll see me insisting that folks do all of the so called "ground" work first. We can't diagnose and fix anything until that work is done and when folks say "they look clean and tight to me" I say that doesn't mean they are all clean and tight.    We aren't electrical engineers here but I believe you're doing a pretty good job so far.   I gotta study a bit today then I'll come back to help ya.... I'm elbows deep in a project and all of my spring maintenance stuff is being held up by that work, so thanks for being patient.