Brantley Foreman

Here is the broken brass tube. It doesn’t show up on any micro fiche and I’m not sure it can be replaced. 
 

but it wasn’t allowing suction to build up. 

So I finally figured the issue out. The brass tube that does from the fuel bowl to the top on the outside of the card had cracked thus not allowing vacuum. Put a new carb on it and ran perfectly. I will try to find a good picture of the tube but very glad to have this issue behind me.

Hitting this back up to see if anyone has a CDI that they would sell me cheap?????

8 minutes ago, spock said:

Curious if the pickup coil was replaced when the stator was done? I've seen more than one Yamaha have a bad one.

 Yes, I replaced the pickup coil and charge coil together.  I also checked the flywheel woodruff key it was in perfect shape and I put the flywheel back on.

The ignition coil was replaced as well.

I got desperate last night at 12am and put the CDI in the oven at 350 for 2 hours. Once it cooled I put in back on the bike and it fired right up and ran well. I was able to drive it around a little bit but after 20 minutes it started acting up again.

You think that and all of the previous things I have done point to the CDI box?

If so, does anyone have a CDI box from a grizzly 600 that they would make a me good deal on?

6 hours ago, shadetree said:

have you checked the timing by any chance ??.

Yes, and I just did it again. It is at TDC Compression stroke, marks on the flywheel and camshaft are correct and the valves have correct lash adjustment.

New spark plug, new coil, new stator, carb has been cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner, tank has been cleaned out and new non ethanol 93 gas. 

I don't know what else to do!

Also compression is 110 PSI.

Put a new coil and stator on it. It fires up and idles well but as soon as you give it gas it dies. I have cleaned the carb three times and tank twice. Brand new spark plug and gas.

Adjusted the pilot screw and it still does the same thing. Any ideas?

Just now, ATC4ever said:

How long does it sit before it will start again?

It doesn't every really start and run longer than a second or two.  You can tell it on the verge of running but dies out after the initial fire.

It can sit for days and not attempt to fire and run or it can sit 10 seconds and it will fire off but only run for a second or two.

Hey everybody,

It has been a while and haven't been working on machines for a little bit, but I ran into a stumper. My proficiency is with Hondas and Yamahas make me see RED!

This bike is my brother in law's, it has 1199 miles on it and went from running great to dead with no start. Every once and a while it will start and sputter for 2 seconds. It is extremely sporadic when it fires but never runs for longer than 3 seconds. 

Here is where we sit:

Brand New Fully Charged Battery

Carb was cleaned with air hose and carb cleaner then into the ultrasonic cleaner with Aircraft aluminum cleaner

New Shindy Carb kit (made in Japan version)

Cleaned out petcock and gas tank

New 93 Non Ethanol Gas

New Spark Plug

It gets a spark through the spark test light every time

Bluish white spark

When holding the spark plug 1/4" - 3/8" away from head it will jump and spark to the head

Good Compression

Here are the readings (I have attached the electrical section from the service manual):

Pickup Coil 519 Ohms (range 459-561)

Charging Coil 266 Ohms (range 270-330)

Lighting Coil 0.700 (range 0.702-0.858)

Spark plug Cap 10.58 Ohms (10kohms

Ignition Coil Primary Coil 0.5 ohms (range 0.18-0.28 ohms)

Ignition Coil Secondary Coil 8.20 kOhms (range 6.32-9.48 kOhms)

Would y'all think stator and pick up coil, rectifier or CDI are the culprit?

Yamaha 600 Grizzly Service Manual Electrical Section.pdf

11 minutes ago, shadetree said:

as i figured, the prob is the tires, rims, or both !.

It's crazy, I know bunches of folks that run 25" tires on 300 without gear reduction with no problems. Also the tires and rims were brand new from honda....never used until this machine and it started from day one.  You think its just too much tire for a stock gear ratio?

up on jacks without tires no problems. i guess it is either, larger tires, same size tires all around, bent rim or unbalanced!

Any thoughts?

There is no water in the diff. The teeth of the ring gear nor pinion gear are not rusted. See pictures showing how good the internals are.

The only rust is between the ring gear splines and the axle splines.

All of the rear drivetrain is good and working smoothly.

I guess it is either in the transmission or clutch.

Would y'all think clutch plates or clutch weights are worn?

Is there anything else to check to hone in on which clutch could be the culprit? Any more adjustment to see where the deficiency is?

1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

I think I would get all 4 off the ground and see if I could pin point something     

I had it off the ground on my atv lift in both 2wd and 4wd (warn 424). It still does the same thing without load on the tires.

If I use the original solid shaft it still does the same thing with low rpm and in each gear. It will almost shake it off the jack.

No play in the out put shaft from the read of the engine either.

I am stumped.

2 hours ago, Melatv said:

Hi: Big Welcome Here -- have you checked the rear universal?

Took off swing arm and the u joint is great. It looks like it did the day it came off the assembly line.

Swing arm bearings are tight and good. Pinion it tight and the shaft from pinion to u joint is great as well as the pinon cup of the shaft.

Fighting with the axle now. It is stuck in the differential and my 20 ton press won't even push it out.

Hope everyone is doing well today.

I am trying to diagnose the issue on my mint 1996 Honda Fourtrax 300 FW 4x4

It is all stock except for having 25" tires on 12" rims. The tires are stock maxxis tires from a foreman. I also added a Warn 424 6 or so years ago and a highlifter yellow spring in the back with the stock shock to help sag.

Nothing has ever been done to this bike.

Issues:

When I am cruising at low rpms (0 to 1/2 throttle) in all gears there is a shudder or shake of the entire four wheeler but seems to be from mid line to back. When I put it on my atv jack it shakes a bunch at same rpms. The swing arm doesn't move when I jack it up and shake it. The intermediate axle from output to transfer case is tight. There are not shavings in the rear differential. The rear wheels don't have any play in the bearings and the axles seem straight.

When I go full throttle the issues is not present. I have adjusted the clutch on the side cover to spec and also to only 1/8 clockwise and the issue is still present.

No carb issues. Starts easily and donesn't bog due to fuel issues.

What would y'all start with now?

3 hours ago, shadetree said:

turn the idle back up at the carb

I know that I’m just confused at why it had extremely high rpms and then after the cap change it still had it until miraculously it has the other extreme without any changes. 

So we put the screw cap from the original carb on the slide tube and it reduced the rpms at idle but still high. 
 

my brother in law text me yesterday evening to say that he now has to press throttle to keep it idling. Not sure why it has now gone to the other extreme. 
 

I’ll keep y’all posted and thanks as always for the advice. 

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

throttle at bars is screwed all the way in, idle screw is turned all the way out so slider is sitting on bottom of carb, you can check this with the throttle cable not attached to the slider, this will let slider all the way down in carb.

So if I’m tracking with you, when the slider should be at the same spot when cable is not attached and when cable is attached and throttle screw is all the way out. 
 

I think based on that the 2000 recon throttle cable is shorter than 2007 recon throttle cable

3 minutes ago, shadetree said:

make sure you got the slider sitting correctly inside the carb !..lol. look at the bottom of the slide, it has an angle on one side at the bottom. this faces the idle screw.

I can confirm it’s in there correct. Angled notch is toward the idle screw

6 minutes ago, shadetree said:

that slider MUST bottom out inside the carb !, if it does not ?, then you get high rev's as if your operating the throttle.

Ok so with throttle screw all the way out the slider should rest on bottom of inside. This one has barely any daylight on the cylinder head side. On the intake side it was a larger gap. 
 

you think I need to get the 2007 throttle cable and that should rectify the situation 

2 minutes ago, shadetree said:

OP, check to make sure your throttle cable is routed correctly into the top of he carb ?, through cap once screwed in, then through the large spring, then runs down the  side of slider, hooks into the bottom of slider.

I can confirm that it is exactly that way. Checked it three times. 

Just now, shadetree said:

recons dont have a butterfly valve in the carbs, they only have a slider.

thats what I was just replying. The choke controls the butterfly valve and the throttle is connected to the slider for needle jet. 
 

I thought it might be that the cable was shorter on 2000 vs 2007 cable but when I hooked it up with the original throttle cable the slider was down almost to the bottom on the cylinder head side. 

My brother in law bought a 2000 Honda Recon 250 about a year ago that had a Chinese carb on it. I told him he needed to replace it soon. Anyway we final got around  to replacing it today. The Honda shop sold us an OEM Honda Carb for the 07-14 Recon because the original carb was no longer available. They assured me it would work. 
 

We put a new peacock on and then the new carb. 
 

Once we started it up it idled extremely high, like wide open throttle. I adjusted the idle screw all the way out and it didn’t change the idle. If you pull the choke halfway it’ll idle right. I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake boot and there was no change to idle. 
 

I’ve never had a brand new OEM carb from in the sealed bag have issues. 
 

Any ideas what could be causing this?

 

welcome firsttimer. You have come to the right place and should receive great support and advice here. 

8 minutes ago, shadetree said:

just set the fuel/air mixture jet before you install the carb, thats all you need to do, if your carb is clean ?, and you put the fuel/air mixture jet in right ?, have it turned out about the right amount of turns ?, there will be no need to reach under the front of the carb to tweak it !. reason: ALL CARBS ARE SET TO RUN LEAN ANYWAY FROM HONDA FACTORY'S !. 2 1/12 turns out from lightly seated is plenty, no need to tweak it from there.

@shadetree,

You are the one, about 8 or so years ago, that convinced me to switch to Shindy kits. I used them for 6 rebuilds that are all running fine now. Something has changed with Shindy in the past year or so (IMHO) The last three rebuilds i did on my problem bike were with shindy kits and from 3 different sources (ebay, independent atv shop and honda dealer).  The pilot jets in all the kits has smaller holes.  I measured them today vs the honda jet and sure enough all three pilot jet had smaller holes.

So i took that data point and the discussion with the two red Star honda certified mechanics to form my opinion / decision.

Also, @shadetree this is the Foreman 450 you and I talked about on the phone several times this summer.  I checked the timing with you on the phone about four times.  Any way it ended up being the shindy pilot jets in three honda OEM carbs.

Not trying to start a fight just letting you know why i said what i did. I will be glad to retract my statement if y'all deem it bad advice.

I figured i would chime in on this since I just concurred a two year issue by getting a new carb. You can find the recently active thread on the old forum.

What i learned: start with an OEM carb without any rebuild aftermarket parts.  If you need new jets go with Kehin or Honda......*DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET*.  My issue was lean condition at all throttle positions, running hot and backfiring too much. The culprit ended up being the carb and specifically the pilot jet.

After talking with the two lead mechanics at Brookhaven Honda I learned that shindy and all other aftermarket jets are notorious for being too small and yielding lean results.

Anyway, my encouragement to you @F250 guy buy OEM honda parts for your carb rebuild.