bigcountry78

I’ve been looking at putting a small box on the front rack to hold odds and ends, but I’m cheap and can’t find anything that doesn’t look too bulky for the front. Anyone ever repurpose something else into a rack box? I found this sawzall box in the garage, the saw is long gone. But I was thinking about cutting the dividers out and putting some padding in, then bolting it to the rack. If you’ve got something similar post pictures

I’ll try lol, I’ve never been one to leave well enough alone…….

That doesn’t sound too bad. Yep I boogered the end up pretty good on this one, at least it’s a fairly easy fix. I’ll fix it one day. For now I’m just happy to have it back together so I can use it for a while, feel like I’ve worked on it more than I’ve ridden it.

Well, the adjustment must be about right so I’m going to leave it alone for now. Is it as easy as pulling the cover, swapping out the bolt, and replacing the cover? I’ll put that on the list for distant future. After I got done, I hitched it up to a trailer and put it to work around the yard for a bit. Shifts good now, pulls like it should, and the brakes work much better. Had my helpers out with me too.

Y’all ever just completely screw something simple up? Yep, me too. After I walked away and took a break, I was able to get the nut started but I’m sure the threads are messed up. Anyway, I think I got it adjusted properly, as the shifting is easier now. But who knows what the future holds as far as adjustments. How involved is it to replace that adjustment screw? I may do that in the future. One thing about my big bear, the adjustment was right there on the side of the motor where you could get to it easily.

Guys this thing is fighting me every inch of the way. I loosened the nut and the screw would not loosen at all. I ended up using a stubby screwdriver with a 1/4” wrench to be able to turn it. I finally got it loose and now I can’t get the nut started back on that screw. I’ve tried filing the burs off that came from adjusting the screw. I’ve tried everything I know to start the nut back on, and now the threads are starting to gall. I hate this thing right now. The only other thing I can figure is the screw head spread out slightly and it won’t let the nut start. Has anyone dealt with this? I know I didn’t need to take the nut off, but I did while I was try to get the screw to turn.

I did an oil change today because I wasn’t positive that it had the correct wet clutch oil in it. Now, it doesn’t slip anymore but it’s harder and harsher shifting now. I think I’m going to adjust it since it probably hasn’t been done ever in the machine’s history. I’ll admit and report back.

Well, got out today and went shopping. I picked up the filter from Napa, and you were right, 4944. They only had one quart of oil on the shelf for $9 something, and they didn’t show an air filter in their system. So I got the oil filter there for less than $10 and went over to the dealer for oil, I got the Honda oil for $10 per quart. So $30 total for cheap insurance that it has the right stuff in it. Honda wants $27 for the air filter, but amazon has them for $12 so I’m gonna cheap out and just order one. That’s the last thing it needs maintenance wise I think. I came home and changed the oil and then rode it for a couple minutes around the neighborhood. The off idle slip seems to be gone, and I now have rear brakes and a functioning parking brake. But, it does seem to shift a little harder now with the correct oil in there, so maybe it does need a clutch adjustment after all. What’s the general opinion? It shifted easier before the oil change, now it’s stiffer and harsher. I know it seems like I’m obsessive over maintenance, but I’ve always been of the mindset that you take care of what you have. And if you take care of the little things, they don’t become big things later. I also don’t know the complete history of this machine. It seems to have lead an easy life for the most part, and I want to do my part to make sure it lasts a long time.

I like the sound of that. Does Napa have the Honda part number in their system for the oil filter? Or is it a Napa specific number?

Everything in the Amazon picture is in Honda packaging, I think I’m going to order it and see what shows up. If I’m not satisfied I’ll send it back. I’m happy to document everything here, maybe my struggles can save someone else the headache. I spent way too much time and energy trying to remove the drum when I should have just pulled the axle and inspected it anyway. I lost half a days time trying to avoid pulling it.

Would the wrong oil cause the slip? And, has anyone had any luck with the amazon tune up kits? They have a kit that has 3 quarts of oil, an air filter, spark plug and oil filter. All supposedly OE Honda stuff, for $50-$55.

I posted about a clutch adjustment in the drivetrain area, but figured I’d address it here too. I have a very slight slip when starting in first gear, but as soon as I’m rolling it goes away. It shifts silky smooth so I’m not sure it really needs to be adjusted. The guy I bought it from mentioned it had a fresh oil change, but since I’ve been reading about people putting the wrong oil in, I’m concerned that he may not have used wet clutch oil. So, is there a distinct difference that I can tell by looking at or smelling the oil that’s in there, and would the wrong oil cause this minor slip I’m having? I probably should go ahead and change the oil so I know it has the correct stuff in there, but just curious.

Alright, finally got everything sorted out, cleaned up and put back together. The rear brake mechanism now functions as it should. I’ve got good foot pedal, the hand lever is iffy. I may end up needing new pads, but I’m going to try adjusting it some more first. At least I can move the hand lever without anything locking up. Rear mechanism is good now and I have a new cable installed, so shoes and adjustment is all there is left I think. Again, many thanks to everyone who offered advice.

lol yea after I posted that I sat there and studied it and it dawned on me that it went on the axle first, then the tube, then the hub. So now I look like a goober. No, I don’t have a service manual, I’m just winging it.

Yes I put just a very light coat of grease where it would slick everything up but not drop everywhere. I’m confused about this bearing race holder doodab. It doesn’t seem to fit back into where it should go. It’s supposed to go over the end of the axle, Into the end of the tube, correct? Because the hub isn’t sliding all the way in.

Picked up some emery cloth and new cotter pins tonight, going to polish the cam, the backing plate pass through and the brake shoe pivot points. I’ll put some grease on everything and then put it all back together finally. Throw some grease on the axle splines for good measure.

This piece? It’s tapered and fell out when I took the tube off. I was about to ask where it goes. As far as the drum? I have no idea what was holding it. Once I got the axle out and on the tailgate, I noticed the drum would move ever so slightly. So I picked up the axle, held it straight up and tapped the end on the tailgate and the drum slid right on down. Not sure if I got the shoes in just the right spot, or if all the pounding and oiling finally took effect.

Success fellas, success!! Many thanks to the good people here that gave advice. I managed to get everything apart without breaking anything. And I think I found the problem. So, what can I put everything back together with to make sure it works as well and as long as possible? Axle grease? Antiseize? Something else that’ll slick everything up? I’ve hit all the pivot points with a wire brush and I’m going to get some sand paper and carb cleaner to make sure everything is as smooth as it can be before it goes back together.

Well, here we are. Removed the shaft and the axle tube, figured why not. Anyway it doesn’t look too bad to be as old as it is. It wasn’t full of mud and water, and the splines on the axle shaft doesn’t show any wear that I can see. I’m happy about that, since it had 26’s on it when I bought it. Anyway, stupid drum is still stuck but at least now maybe I can see what’s going on.

Well now there’s another thing to try. Might try that next, and then remove the entire axle as a last resort. Brakes shouldn’t be this hard to fix.

Do you have a sure fire way of making sure the shoes are not holding the drum on? I have no idea what way the shoes are oriented because I can’t see anything going on back there.

Well crap, that’s just my luck. Thanks guys, that’s why ya’ll are awesome, the knowledge here is amazing. I guess I’ll try again tomorrow. Like I’ve said earlier, I’m confused about why this thing is being so difficult. It all came apart so easily earlier this year.

I was hoping that by leaving the backing plate bolted in place that the shaft would slide through and out with the drum in place. Next I’ll unbolt the backing plate and see if it’ll move then. Then maybe I can slide the backing plate off to the left and get in there to get the drum off. I’m trying really hard to not break the backing plate.

I had to walk away for a while. This thing is getting to me. The cotter pin came out in pieces of course, and then I couldn’t budge the nut even with my biggest ratchet. I had to resort to my 1/2” impact, and that finally broke it loose. And now, wouldn’t you know the axle shaft won’t move. I’m over it.

I wondered if I could unbolt the backing plate and go that route. Wonder if I could leave the backing plate and just slide the axle out? Would that bring the brake drum off with the axle and leave the backing plate and brake pads in place? To remove the axle, I would take the other tire and hub off, then slide it through, correct?