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87Iroc

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Posts posted by 87Iroc

  2. Posted

    15 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

    I kind of  take it that 87' thinks you are trying to convert your full time 4wd to a full time 2wd , not shooting to be able to shift back and forth from 4wd to 2wd but :

    IMG_2683.JPG

     

    No, in original post he wanted to know what parts from later models he could swap across to make it part time 4WD. Those are the parts I was mentioning. I probably just worded my post wrong.

     

    Full time 2WD would be easy I'd think. Destroy a couple of half shafts to get the hub portion and send it.

    • Like 1

  5. Posted

    1 hour ago, _Wilson_™ said:

    even if you could, they don't carry the 424, as there not in production any longer, your best bet is crags list ebay, or happen up a used one, like jeep did...... and the link fish posted ships to Canada .. i would try that 1st 

     

    I thought someone bought the rights and is still producing?

  7. Posted

    52 minutes ago, Gator1957 said:

    The problem living in Canada and buying anything from the USA the shipping usually doubles the price and then you have to pay the duty on it. It looks like the best price I can find from " Canada" is around $500 or more

     

    That does suck. Do you have local places like rockymountainatv in Canada that would sell you OEM parts cheaper to convert to 2WD?

  8. Posted

    On the fuel tank deal. On mine. I ran a filter for a while while i was diagnosing. Kept getting a stuck float due to debris running out of the tank. Its really tough to fit them in due to the design of the carbs and system.

     

    After getting scolded by a senior member here. I flushed the tank good and put it back together w/o the filter. Never had a problem after that. How I knew I had a problem was fuel would randomly run out on the floor after I'd shut it off. I have heard that a piece of debris can easily clog a main jet, though.

  10. Posted

    5 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

    Gator , my 2002 450 had an electric shift front diff in it , I swopped it to a full time front diff with a 424 kick out , there are a lot of expensive electrical parts and wire  involved with the electric engage front diff  and things to go bad and the default mode of 4wd electric shift is 2wd , so when it doesn't function properly all you got is 2wd , if it defaulted to 4wd , I could have maybe lived with it  ---- have read where you can make that electric shift front diff engage with out all the OEM wiring and electrical parts , but I have never done that  --- to do it right you would likely need a parts bike , as there would be so many parts you would need , including a wiring harness change out , that it would unfeasible to buy all the stuff -----   to give you just a little info on the electric engage set-up , there are two speed sensors at the front diff to protect it from being engage while moving to fast and causing damage , one of those sensors on the front diff of an electric engage front diff works the speedometer , on your atv the speedometer pickup is in the rear engine case , people have by-passed all that and just install a switch to send power to the actuator , but you are not protected no more from engaging while moving too fast , a long as you slow to a crawl of stop before shifting it you would be ok 

     

    I " LOVE " the 424 kickout , I have 5 atvs with  424s in them , 3 -300s and 2 -450s , lots of hours in extreme conditions ------- the cable getting stiff after time when shifting in and out of 4wd  is something that can be avoided by keeping it lubed  or staying out the water in my case 

     

    I'd take this guys recommendations. He has taught his ATVs to swim and dodge big(really big) snakes. If the 424 spends its life underwater and still works...then its passed the grueling test in my book.

     

     

    • Like 3

  11. Posted

    3 hours ago, Airbusboy said:

         While I wait for parts, I have been studying the service manual and I have a question....Is the oil pump fed FROM the filter housing or from/via the scavenger pipe? The reason I ask is 'IF' it is fed FROM the scavenger pipe, which I suspect, then the pump never ran dry in my case, only the upper cylinder/rockers. And IF that's the case, then perhaps the pump did not sustain much, if any, damage. I also want to clarify...I use this machine to go from my hunting trailer to my deer stand and back, that's all. The time each way is about 5-7 minutes, and then it sits for several hours. Plus I don't abuse it when I do run it.  My point is that it barely gets up to operating temps and never really gets 'hot'. With that in mind, perhaps the upper cylinder damage is minimal and I MAY get lucky. I plan on gently wiping the entire upper area 'upwards' from the pushrod cavity with a oil dampened sponge to remove any metal that could be laying there. After several swipes like that, I'll slowly pour some light-weight oil down the entire upper cylinder with the oil plug out, letting it flow straight out and not sit in the lower case. After a few quarts, I'll put the plug back in and fill it up to normal capacity with oil. Without attaching the gas tank, run it long enough to use all the fuel in the carb bowl, then remove the valve cover to confirm oil IS being pumped 'upstairs'. Assuming it is, reassemble all of it, plastics included, and run it for about 30 minutes, then drain it and change filters. I'll do that a few times, then if she's still running proper, fill it with good oil and let her go with my fingers crossed.        And IF I find that oil is NOT being pumped upstairs, then perhaps JUST replace the oil pump, assuming I can find one, and then do the above procedure. What  ya think?

     

    Before i Started mine after the rebuild. I had the VC off(the oil feeds on my 450 go in to drillings in the VC and get squirted on the valves)...I cranked it til it spurted oil out. Its not high pressure like a car is. As soon as I saw it spurt out, I put it back together and ran it.

     

    The oil pump on the 450 has a oil pump bypass on it(it goes straight from pump to filter to oil cooler to engine if I recall right). So if the filter is deadheaded(put in backwards) then it will bypass back to the crankcase. I 'suspect' that the oil pump would be fine....but depends on how hot the pump got. But I think I saw someone on here show a twisted off oil pump shaft at one point in last few months but I can't recall what caused that. I think the engine was in much worse shape. 450s runs off the front of the camshaft.

     

    As for damage. On my 450. The oil pump feeds in to the crankshaft. The crankshaft distributes oil to the rod and the piston pin(or maybe not the pin....I can't recall...it may be splash oiled). Seems to me it also then feeds over to the trans bearings to pump oil through the shafts as there's a shaft/bushing over there on mine that would suffer from lack of oil too.

     

    Any gears should be OK as they run in oil. Its the bushings/bearings that would suffer. I think the sealed bearings would retain oil during a oil change and if you didn't run it hard that oil should have been OK. 

     

    I'm far from one of the experts on here though. 

     

    I'd rebuild the top end and put it back together and see how it acts. Its not hard to dig in and inspect/replace though. Oddly fun but sounds like you have done it before.

     

    Good luck. 

  12. Posted · Edited by 87Iroc

    2 hours ago, The_wanderer said:

    Hi guys, I’ve got a foreman 450 es and want to download a manual for it but not sure what year model it is.... how do I find out as I’ve already checked it all over for a sticker of plate to tell me

     

    cheers

     

     

    On my 98 ,the VIN is on the front crossmember under the front fenders. Very top flat L Shaped cross member. VIN is on top surface. I have seen someone here say which letter signifies the VIN. I don't recall.

     

    Post a pic of the front/side of your bike(super easy on this site) and I'm sure someone can shout out the year of it. Being a 450. I 'think' they only offered them for a few years. I have a 450S that's a 98(first year). 04 is the end of that 'square' body style then they got a face lift. I'm not sure, though, what the look of the new one was. Post that first generation they moved to front disk brakes...but I'm not sure if the 450 survived beyond the first few years. Still learning myself

    • Like 1

  22. Posted · Edited by 87Iroc

    On 12/2/2020 at 3:18 PM, retro said:

    You can tell if you have a failed cutoff valve if the motor will not idle, or is idling extremely lean and the pilot screw adjustment is unresponsive... if you hear popping/afterburning out of the exhaust during deceleration (lean condition) then its possible that your cutoff valve has failed too. A vacuum check confirms this.

     

    Hrmmmm, I have this problem on mine. On decel's it popps. I'll pull it apart sometime. I loosely checked it and it at rebuild and it seemed OK(no airflow in my hands)...but I will double check.

     

    Things ain't cheap!

    • Like 1
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