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    Ontario, Canada
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  1. I agree, must have been a piece of the casting. I wish I hadn't tried the temporary fix. I will still rebuild the motor over the winter even if I find a good used motor to install. I got a new Rancher a month ago and my wife is driving it. I'm using her 09, so a spare motor would be nice. I'd like to sell the 13 since it has more miles on it and we don't need 3. I found a used crankshaft balancer on ebay, but still looking for the front crankcase spacer.
  2. Finally got some time today to get the clutch off. Oil pump casing is split apart. There's more bad news...the crankshaft balancer shaft end is sheared off where the oil pump drive tang fits. I really didn't want to get into the crankcase. It might be cheaper to look for a used motor and keep this one for parts.
  3. Finally got time to look at things closer... I've got the front crankcase cover off and what do I see...the oil pump casing has blown apart. It may have picked up something and built up too much pressure. Its funny that the relief valve didn't prevent damage if that was the case. I'm having trouble getting the driver clutch off. The puller I borrowed is a little small, so I made longer arms for it, but even with a big gear clamp around the 2 jaws, it still doesn't fit snug enough on the back side of the clutch. I don't want to buy the honda puller. Anyone got any ideas?
  4. Ahhhh, Great idea, I already have the fitting on order. Your middle name wouldn't happen to be MacIver would it?
  5. Thanks Toodeep. I ordered some parts today from a hydraulic shop to make up a manifold gauge set. The 8mm x 1.25 thread in the oil pressure inspection port is an odd size. The fitting should be in early next week. As a stab in the dark, I tried closing the solenoid emergency bi-pass screw on the shift control valve today, but it didn't make any difference. I'm going to wait for the make-shift pressure test manifold before going any further, but I like your thinking. I have no codes showing, so I don't think its electrical, but who's to say? I doubt anything made it through the oil pump pick-up screen, but you may be right. I'm thinking oil pressure test to prove the pump is working and if it is, open up the casings and check the clutch.
  6. I'm debating on removing the main valve like you said and cleaning and inspecting it before I do a pressure test. There's a solenoid in there and maybe its bad.
  7. I wasn't sure if Mel was razzing me, if he was, he made me chuckle. I'm in Ontario, Canada. How about you? I was talking to the dealer and he recommended a pump pressure test. I had been to a hydraulics supplier last week seeing if I could get a fitting to adapt to the 8mm oil ports. We figured I could rig a manifold gauge for around $115 cdn. To test it at he honda shop, they would charge their shop rate which is about the same. So I'm leaning towards making my own. Right now, I'm riding my wife's 09 Rancher AT. It's the same bike and I've taken my accessories off my 13 and put them on hers.
  8. I'm sure I didn't. I don't think the bike would have gone 50 miles if the filter was in backwards.
  9. Thanks for the links to the service manuals.
  10. Do you have a service manual for this bike? I was told by jeepwm69 that you were the guy to talk to. He suggested looking into taking the main valve apart and inspecting/cleaning it.
  11. I put 3.6 litres in the crankcase, started the bike and let run for a few minutes, then shut it off. after a few minutes, I took out the dipstick and wiped it off and put it back in without screwing it in. Oil was at the top of the top line. The bike was in the garage on level footing.
  12. I'm new to this forum and I'll need help from you guys who know Honda's. I'll give you a detailed history... My bike is a 2013 Rancher AT with IRS and power steering. It's actually the Canadian Trail Edition sold up here in Canada. It has auto and ESP. I stripped the threads in the oil drain hole while doing an oil change and there wasn't enough metal in the blind hole to tap it out to a larger size. So I drilled the remaining threads out to 1/2" and flushed the crankcase with the old oil, then I used an expandable plug and refilled with new oil and installed a new filter. I was afraid that the expandable plug might leak, so I took the atv for a long ride, checking the expandable plug for leaks every few miles. There were no leaks. After about 50 miles, I was driving home in 5th gear at about 30 mph and lost drive power completely. There wasn't any noise to indicate a problem when this happened. The motor runs fine. With the bike jacked up, the wheels will turn, but with no force. The gears will shift. There is no difference in 4 wheel drive. I used the right oil from Honda, same oil they've been selling me for the last 7 years and amount was bang-on. The bike ran perfect for 50 miles, then all of a sudden, it stopped pulling. There was no indication of a problem leading up to this failure. There was no hesitation, no odd noise, no gradual loss of power...just instant. I just tried draining the oil and blowing out the 3 oil ports for the clutches thinking maybe something was blocking a line or port. I filtered the oil through a sieve and coffee filter as it drained and the was no particles or discoloration in the oil. The drive line is good, except it needs a new front CV joint and bearing...just noticed it. I'd like to check the pressure from the oil pump to the clutches, but have no means of doing that since I don't have a test gauge manifold. Does anyone have any ideas?
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