freebo86

25 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

PB Blaster is ok , but here are a lot better penetrants out there , AeroKroil is my favorite , Deep Creep and 3M 5 way spray are also  good --- a lot of people swear by 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF 

I've used 50/50 Acetone & ATF Mix. Works well, smells like death. The jam nut idea is great! I'll have to see if I can find half nuts in the right pitch

That is what I used to break the rear cam bolt free on the brake panel.. then the brake panel snapped 😞 So I gotta get that fixed too.

8 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

There  are two ways the clutch adjustment screw can become frozen  , one is the jam /lock nut gets frozen to the adjustment stud or the other way , the  stud gets frozen in the case , a impact driven hit with a hammer can work on the frozen adjuster stud , just be careful how hard you hit as the casing is aluminum , if the jam nut is frozen on the stud , get some one to hold a box end wrench on the nut will you hit the stud with the impact driver  

The nut came off loose easily and can be spun. It's the stud itself. I tried to move it but didnt want to apply too much force and wallow out the flat head cut in the stud..

On 12/18/2020 at 2:27 AM, retro said:

Any decent auto parts store should have synthetic bearing grease.

Found some. Been busy put it back together last night, MUCH smoother! just at stand still the shifts sounds stronger.

Now if I could only adjust the clutch, the little screw is frozen, I let it soak in PB blaster and maybe next time the machine warms up a bit it will help break some rust free.

Photos I will post a Restoration style thread. Lots has happened in the last month of ownership, bearings, 2nd up seat, main seat recover, re-welding the racks, axle boots, etc. Still have a ton of things to cross off the list lol.

2 hours ago, retro said:

Yup, white grease is one of the major Honda ES issues that this prep tutorial was intended to solve. If its not too much trouble for ya to go back into it and clean & repack every bearing & gear with synthetic bearing grease.... it'll save ya a bunch of grief down the road when the ES fails to respond. Guaranteed that you'll have a problem in the near future if ya don't. Read the first post again for more info... looking forward to your intro, maybe ya can share a pic or two of your Foreman with us..? 🙂

 

I pulled it off again and cleaned it all lff

2 hours ago, retro said:

Hi @freebo86, welcome to ATV Honda!

 

What you are experiencing is normal since the transmission is a constant-mesh design. If you rock your 450ES back and forth while shifting through the gears every one of them should work without starting the motor. A constant-mesh type transmission requires that the two shafts inside the trans be moving before it will shift through all five gears + reverse. It may shift into all gears while the motor is running, but a running motor provides no guarantee either... forward or backward movement of the ATV is generally required for the shifter to engage every gear.

 

The only issue that I can see is that you used the wrong type of grease (white lithium is bad) in your ES system prep, so you'll have to repeat your work again next season using a quality synthetic grease... Have fun, hope you enjoy our forums!

I pulled it off all and cleaned it. I’m having a hard time finding this Synthetic Grease you speak of. Located in Canada. 
 

On hand I have Lucas Red n Tacky.. I’ve used this in applications but is this synthetic or what? That mobil 1 stuff you have in your OP doesn’t seem to be readily available and neither can I see that stores carry Synthetic Grease most are labeled Multipurpose. Any advice?

2 minutes ago, retro said:

Hi @freebo86, welcome to ATV Honda!

 

What you are experiencing is normal since the transmission is a constant-mesh design. If you rock your 450ES back and forth while shifting through the gears every one of them should work without starting the motor. A constant-mesh type transmission requires that the two shafts inside the trans be moving before it will shift through all five gears + reverse. It may shift into all gears while the motor is running, but a running motor provides no guarantee either... forward or backward movement of the ATV is generally required for the shifter to engage every gear.

 

The only issue that I can see is that you used the wrong type of grease (white lithium is bad) in your ES system prep, so you'll have to repeat your work again next season using a quality synthetic grease... Have fun, hope you enjoy our forums!

wow! Thanks for the fast feedback. I will formally introduce myself and the machine in the coming days. 
 

so I put it together, fired it up and it shifts through all gears without effort! The grease, its White Grease, NLGI #2. Ive used this on winch planetary gears. So this isnt the right stuff?

I still gotta adjust my clutch too. 

So I pulled the shift motor on my 04 450ES as I was having slow shifts and also last weekend I after a long ride it would shift anymore was flashing the gear. Manually shifted myself back. After letting the 4wheeler sit the shifting was back to normal so I assume water got into a connector so I’ve been adding dielectric grease to all connections. 
 

i took the shift assembly off to clean the old grease, added white lithium grease. Put it all back together to see before I button it up fully . Turn the key to just ON (engine off) now shifts strong but will go N,1 and 2 when I try to go to 3rd it just - shows up. And sounds like it won’t compete the shift and locks up. Took the motor off double check all and all seems fine. What’s going on? Does the engine have to be running to shift through all the gears, the ATV has been off for the last 6 days. 
 

anyone have an idea what’s going? I lined up the little indent to what I think I’m supposed to which is the indent on the shaft?