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dadhustle

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  1. Thank you for this! I realize I’m all over the place, but I previously mentioned the post being “loose”, wobbly on the starter. I didn’t tighten ALL the way down! I hope this just drained my battery, not cooked it. For 13.00, I’ll give this a shot! Hoping to get back to es testing soon!
  2. Ahhh, good to know! Will be a couple days before I can get back into, but will share back. Thanks for this and the battery suggestion!
  3. Thanks guys, hmm, I didn’t realize I could be showing T in the flywheel inspection opening, but be wrong. Saying back what I’m understanding: I could be at the underline of the T but not be at tdc? By another revolution and mark at base of the T and I’ll be on tdc? The red hot arc at the starter; could be bad ground? Any thoughts on why the battery has no reading on my multimeter? - cable was really hot near the battery.
  4. Okay, sorry to be away so long.. got back to it today. We decided to shift gears; my kiddo wanted to adjust the valves. We finished that exercise, pull rope much easier now (so hoping valve adj is solid). When we tried to start, she was cranking, but wouldn't turn over. *Remember when I said the bolt on the starter was lose? -well, she cranked, then solenoid clicked. So I checked the starter and noticed the connection was lose. -I tightened that down... Tried to start her again, she arced and bolt connection at the starter got like weld red hot. I shut the key off and now we have no juice.. battery not even giving a reading. Ugh. Clear I need a starter, but what else could I have done? -hope the pain ends w/a bad battery. *All fuses are good! *For safe keeping, I disconnected the - on the battery So seems I need to pivot, fix this, as I don't think I can provide any voltage readings at the moment. *Extra question: w/the valve adjustment, I 1. Loosened the adjustment nut, set feeler gauge between the nut and top of valve (??) -as seen below. 2. Using a flathead I tightened the screw to .006 (I had a steady drag on the feeler) 3. W/out moving the screwdriver, I tightened the the adjustment nut *As mentioned, the hand pull much easier, she cranked after, but did not start. Yes, fuel/choke is on, spark plug wire connected, valve cover tight and flywheel TDC covered replaced 🙂 Any assistance is appreciated -hope to resolve this and get back to previous electrical testing. Thanks, RD
  5. @retro thank you for the details. I have tested power again today, using the frame ground to left of the ICM (above right front wheel, under fender). Both 22 and 5 pin connectors read 12v, the measurement was fickle, which I thought weird, so disconnected the ground, cleaned the frame and terminal w/a wire brush. -both are reading 12v. Awaiting further instructions, thank you Sir.
  6. Okay, so I feel like it was a good night. Still no ES, but have traced it back to the ECU, I think. What we did: disconnected 5 wire harness from ECU jumper from orange and green wire on harness to battery w/the key off shift motor fired and shifted gears (this was verified by removing power to motor (which was just a moment) and turned on key, verified movement 1-3 (we connected power more than once) Is it still possible this is the shift position sensor, something else or am I looking at an ECU issue? -verified all pins are straight and clean. Brought her home.. changing oil, gonna fire up tomorrow, put in first and let him tote around the yard - birthday wish realized 🙂
  7. No apologies! Thank you and wishing speedy fix up at home
  8. Okay, so re-working my numbers, based on studying of multimeter use 😕 I believe the position sensors are bad, but all three? The downshift resistance seems to be the issue, ranging from 0.72-0.8 The upshift resistance ranges from 0.8-0.89 Readings at the terminals are within this range Based on my research of the starter & ground, I think the voltage testing is okay? I'm going back tonight to try readings again, I'll re-check all electrical connections, terminals. Thank you @Fishfiles for the bypass link; I'm leaning that direction, if I can't get this right soon.
  9. Thank you @jeepwm69, I’ll do whatever is needed and grateful for the help. Any move to go manual, would just be to try and his the birthday.. would be temporary. I’ve called all over my local area, no one will help on something “that old”. edit: Oh my.. so I don’t think manual conversion is a speedy option, watching this video.. its a chore. Seeing the poster remove a ground near the stator, has me wondering if I’m missing a connection. I had a partner helping me and I don’t recall this. Again, all appears to work well, except e shift ( and I believe we’ll need a starter, the post feel lose)
  10. Oooohkay, so we kicked up quite a bit of dust tonight, but not sure what we accomplished or if I was doing some things correctly, be gentle: I pulled the amazon shift/start harness and reconnected the old -I was quickly reminded, the shape its in.. the kill switch is free-flowing, no resistance. -w/this, I could no longer push start and the shift buttons returned nothing. I pulled the amazon shift position sensor and replaced w/the original. I quickly noticed this difference in the two; not sure if its material: Replacing this yielded nothing so I started w/the multimeter tested as retro outlines above.. this is where I thought I knew what I was doing... When testing for voltage of 22pin connector, I interpreted the ground to be the wire on left... this returned nothing truly, meter didn't move. So I left the green/black probe and touched the other to the post on the starter -it made sense at the time... that returned a 12 reading I experience the same nil reading results w/the 5 pin connector and when touching to the starter post, returned a 12 reading Moving onto the continuity testing at the 5pin connector -all good! -audible tone result. Now onto resistance: Step 1: returned a reading of 8 Step 2: reading of 11 Step 3: reading of 10 In my mind this doesn't jive w/expected result of up-shift resistance, but I receive 1.375.. greater than 0.4, feel I did something wrong. Similarly, down shift resistance returns 1.25, which is >0.6.. but I'm skeptical Removing the angle sensor and testing again: Step 2: 9 Step 3: 9 still both are out of bounds, sooooo.. I used yet another angle sensor (from the original motor), yielding these results at the connector: Step 2: 9 Step 3: 9 .. still both, seem out of bounds. If prior experience wasn't enough, the changes of 3 sensors being bad... I'm doing something wrong. I was skeptical to even share my results; unfortunately, where I'm working.. internet is sketchy, attempts to self-study, iffy. *In none of these situations (when all was connected and attempting to shift), could I even hear the shift motor. *when shifting mechanically, we have to rock her just a bit to get a shift display reading -this made resistance readings problematic as the results were wildly moving/varying I'm near the point of pulling the es gears, attached a foot shift pedal, at least to get this going by the weekend. She starts first push button crank and idles well (I think valves need some adjusting, but very happy w/starting and running). Again, I was reluctant to even share my results, but welcome any insight, corrective guidance. Thanks All, RD
  11. yea.. about those. Yep, virtually all parts, except used are ebay/amazon -I do still have all the old, so I'll tinker w/that and test as you outline, this weekend. -hope to report good word soon. Thanks again, RD
  12. okay, great news.. somewhat embarrassed to admit, but more grateful! The ground connection to the starter had some nylon or paper style washers between the terminal and nut.. removed those and it fired right and reliably so! *Its idling rough, perhaps old gas, valves previously mentioned -we'll get to that soon. *the bolt on the starter feel lose, has movement -not sur it should, so starter replacement may be coming. We're down to the e shifting to recap: motor turns w/12 power from battery can mechanically move through all gears (sometimes have to rock her to slip into gear above 2nd... not sure if a factor) new shift angle sensor new shift controls/sub-harness New (used) wiring harness from battery forward gears if shift motor look okay to me, no broken teeth I do not hear the shift motor trying when hitting the shift buttons dash panel reads all gears, so I assume shift angle is okay?? I welcome any advice, it was such joy to see my son smiling as he started her tonight -I thank you all for your help. w/Gratitude, RD
  13. Thanks Folks, we we're working on it 3/25 -I hope to report back good things.
  14. Man, thank you so much for the great and timely feedback! I will check the starter and report back! Thanks for the tips on the compression.. valves were done without feeler 😕 The solenoid is a 'cheap' Amazon version, so I'll definitely pick up an OEM. Birthday in 9 days, I hope to report back soon. Thanks all
  15. Hi there, I hopeful for some guidance from what looks to be a great community. We've bought a used, hard-ridden '01 350 es 2x4. When we bought, you could only pull start; some shady stuff had been done all through it. We have replaced: motor top end (new) lower end (used) wiring harness (used) angle position sensor battery/solenoid (new) e-shift, start harness (new) We can get her pull-started, but really tight pull.. really tight pushing start button, we only get a solenoid click .. battery good can mechanically shift all gears w/the emergency shifter 1-5 and reverse push button shift does nothing -we don't even hear the shift motor trying shift motor is good; tested direct to battery -shifts freely I'm down to the ECU, but don't know if this could cause both starting and shifting? Please help; all my son is asking for his birthday is to get this thing running -two weeks away.. agh. We are grateful for any guidance.
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