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  1. Just wanna say thanks again to all. Final update, I removed the amazon shift sensor and replaced with original.. she shifts, all 5 gears and reverse! Now and again she won’t, putting back on, the old switches didn’t help.. so that and a battery has been ordered! I have witnessed my son riding around 1st to 3rd! So it does seem, we are on the right side of things. She’s now backfiring, but atm I’m chalking that to our poor riding. I’ll start a new thread if this become an issue 🙂 Oh and I will definitely follow the provided guide! Great community here, very grateful to have so much help. God Bless All, RD
  2. Great advice and detail -will do! thank you @slowindown
  3. Thanks @Fishfiles I did not last night, but in the course of this long thread.. yep, been off several times and has been greased -upon inspection of all shift sensor area gears and that visible, externally of the shift motor -all look good, not chipped/missing teeth.
  4. Hi there thank you and update -you may be onto something. -I tinkered w/this so long I drained the battery a bit (note to buy a better battery). After a night of charging, we have tested again this morning; things I notice: She will shift, but not entirely -will read a - - on the display. You have to rock it a bit and then she'll shift into gear. After shifting into gear, the switches will not shift again. To gain another e-shift, we turn the key off and on again -we can get a shift, but only one. -the cycle repeats. This is true for any matter of shifting R>>N N>>R N>>1 1>>2 I'm stoked though -she shifts! Given this info, what do you all think? -Position sensor, shift motor? -someone said shift drum, I hope not!
  5. Hi there, I think I did, but truth.. was so pumped, I dunno.. I did get it back in to N but emergency shift, but now I’m back where I started, no action in the shift switches and I can’t get the reset procedure to kick again
  6. Okay, spoke too soon. She wasn’t shifting in order, couldn’t get into reverse... odd. Tried procedure again and now she won’t get our of - - instead of neutral.... its a great day though, confirmation all parts work! any thoughts on this reset procedure?
  7. Ooooohyyy Gosh, it worked! key off>> hold up/down button>> key on, let go soon as it comes on>> heard a shift below >> hold throttle open>> let go off throttle. display did not go back to N, but pushing switches, she is shifting!!!!! Thank you Lord and thank you all here!
  8. You know, I thought about that tape all day! I just checked though, with manual shift, the light goes out, so I think we’re good there? The previous motor owner got back to me, say yellow wire was about ignition, but not shifting. He said, make sure you preload the shift sensor. Not knowing what all that was, I started googling.. not finding my year, but am seeing something about hold both shift switches as you turn on..... to reset the ecu... make any sense?
  9. Oh good Lord.. so it is.. well this will give everyone a laugh... having a drink and calling it a night. Oh and light is all lit up! I’ll get on the switches AND shift sensor?
  10. Thanks, I will definitely look into oem switches and shift sensor before the ecu. I want to show you our dash, not to belabor the point, I just want to know if I should have something else. As you can see, we don’t have a green light.. could something else be happening here? pic immediately after turning on the key pic after temp light goes out? Hard to see, but we have a neutral reading on the display
  11. DH: Grounds look good; one by the ECU was a bit dirty, but cleaned up -no change DH: Battery -check Fuses -check Neutral light -we don't have one -we have a R light and N on the digital panel -stays in N on the digital panel -is that the same? Reverse gear lockout cable and level -I searched the manual over for this. I'm not sure I've found it, but its the cable that sit on bottom center of rear cover, sits in a guided harness, a collar of sorts on the cable -I'm near positive its for the reverse (attaches to circled in picture below?) Vehicle speed sensor -check Angle Sensor resistance -check, holding at 5+/- Shift motor functional -check, verified several times w/12v direct to motor Supply voltage -fail, holding steady at 4+/- here Handlebar switches -TBD, but not looking good What do you think? ECU? -honestly, my son is growing discouraged, so its push over the hump here or sell it off 😞 *Something occurred to me; I bought this lower motor half used --too long a story to go into for now. The guy that sold it to me (whom I'm trying to reach for deeper understanding) said something about jumping a yellow wire "you'll never read it in the manual" he said ...this was regarding ES. I dunno if this helps, but it struck me today. Thanks @retro, RD
  12. Thank you @retro!! -appreciate your help through all this! -by shift ECU, you mean the 22pin/gray connection ECU under the right rear fender? -you advised the Amazon shift switches were probably bad in a previous post; we'll get them replaced.
  13. Thank you, I’ll try to explain what I did: testing the shift switches: multimeter set to ohms with audible continuity (20k), tested by touching probes Removed gray ecu harness, connected multimeter probes as such: Black probe to red/black wire Red probe to blue/white and then yellow/white. Depending upon red probe, toggle shift switch, gathered the reading. For the shift sensor voltage, unplugged from shift sensor, with ecu harness connected and key on, multimeter set to dcv 1000, returned a reading of 4. For the resistance of the shift sensor, ecu harness disconnected, shift sensor plug connected to the shift sensor and multimeter set to ohm 20k, I checked the green/blue and red/black... green/blue is 4th down from opposite row of red/black? I would call it left looking down on the wires.. reading is 5.09. I hope this helps, welcome any guidance.
  14. Hi there, providing a more clear explanation: Hope the following proves helpful and thanks for your persistence. Was this volts DC measured with the key on? Or was it Ohms resistance (Continuity) measured with the key off? Please explain.... DH: I've performed both ways; key on and off. Measurements as follows: White/Blue>> BlackRed VDC = 0 Key Off Continuity = >4 <6 Key On Continuity = >3 <4 White/Yellow>>Black/Red VDC = 0 Key Off Continuity = >3 <4 Key On Continuity = >3 <4 *Each continuity test performed several times, readings ranged in above 8 Ohms resistance while depressing the shift switches, measured while the switches assembly were unplugged from the main harness? DH: =No, this was done at end of shift harness, unplugged from main -point I guess 🙂 I am confused here as well. Where/how are you measuring voltage when you say "at the ECU end"? This test (unplug the angle sensor and measure voltage inside the angle sensor main harness connector with the key on) is all that is required: DH: tested again, 4VDC When you provide measurements please include whether those numbers are volts DC, or Ohms resistance? DH: Roger Did you forget to include this test....? With the ignition key off, the angle sensor plugged in, unplug the ECU and measure resistance through the angle sensor like this and report back: DH: Key off continuity = 5.09
  15. Good Day All, Okay, we have tested as guided above; here's what we know: *All tests were performed w/the battery connected to a charger When re-testing continuity in the e-shift buttons (at the ECU end), we received: White/Blue >> Black/Red (UP)= 2.98-4.14 White/Yellow>>Black/Red (Down)= 3.14-4.25 *tested several times and received in this range When re-testing continuity at the shift assembly end, both tests returned in range of 8.00 When testing the shift angle sensor (at the connector end), voltage ranged from 4-5 *several tests) When testing the shift angle sensor (at the ECU end), voltage was also in range of 5 I believe I followed instructions, but I'm so lost now. *I did remove the ECU and noticed some rust on one of the pins on the 5 connector harness. I tried to clean that w/some blaster and wire brush, but it didn't net anything. Please share your thoughts and thanks again.
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