SlammedRanger

Something they did on the 400ex engine cases i thought was very smart is they have 9 or 10 of the case half bolts you take out from one side. You remove those first. Then you flip it over and there are 2 more from the opposite side. It keeps the case halves together. And reminds you which side to have facing up. Dont know if they did this on the utility quad engines or just sport quads. But i know for sure the 300ex was that way and 250x aswell.

I havent logged on over there since we all abandoned the sinking ship lol. So they removed my mod status at some point i guess also? LoL. Not that i care anyway.

So sorry for your loss. Take as much time away as you need! Anything you need dont hesitate to ask!

Man i was almost spot on with the cap size without a picture even lol. All the analog test will do is tell you if its shorted or dead. Not weak. Only way to test if its weak is testing for uf. Take them into any hvac place. Or stop any hvac truck you see. They will test it in 3 seconds.

With the proper multi meter you can. You need a symbol that looks like this -|(- that setting can test a capacitor for uf. You will need to look on the side of the cap it will say something like 5/30uf +/-5%. That would mean it has to be tested common to herm and common to fan. Common to fan would be around 5. Common to herm would be around 30. If its a single cell cap it would just have one uf and just test across the 2 terminals and so on. We have universal caps with 5 or 6 cells in them and that gets alot more complicated.

Now beware. If they have been sitting for a long time they could read as dead. But still be good. You gotta test them when they have a full charge and that can drain off over long periods of time.

On 2/6/2022 at 2:17 AM, Fishfiles said:

This is kinda sad actually. Just shows how arrogant he is. You cant tell me that when he was a buckeye he never was being coached. Coming from a team that has been consistant in developing nfl grade quarterbacks. Typical of this generation though. Hes got alot of humbling to do or hes gunna get chewed up and spit out by the nfl and social media.

Coulda took the high road and thanked the coaches and people along the way. But a middle finger i guess is more his style.

Best luck i have had at removing a broken bolt has been putting a nut on and welding to the stud. The heat of welding tends to break the bond and help with removal. But at this point most likely you will be taking it to a machine shop and they will drill it and put a heli coil in it. Heli coil is essentially a threaded sleeve that is threaded outside and inside. It will allow you to use the same size as factory bolt threaded inside. And the hole will be taken out to the size and thread pitch necessary for the heli coil to thread in and be locked in place with some sort of sleeve retainer or loc tite. Unless you have a drill press with a vice and machinist set of drill bits do not attempt this yourself. The hole has to be perfectly square or none of this will ever work.

11 hours ago, shadetree said:

unless you are not going to re-use them ?, then yeah..razor them off. if you are going to re-use them ?, take the end cap off, slide a small thin, long screw driver under the grip as far as you can work it, then take a wd-40 straw, slide it in right next to the screw driver, spray it, , pull the screw driver out, give it a small twist, grip will slide right off.

Yeah that was what i was getting at with saying depending how wore out they are. If they are wore out they are trash and i just cut them off. But odi lock on grips come off and go back on in seconds. One small allen screw and it slides right off. Since making that change i havent looked back. Heck they were only 10 dollars more than normal grips. LoL

10 hours ago, Greg said:

No glue used the air trick worked perfect

Awesome! Glad it worked! It takes alittle getting used to. But once that grip shrinks back down on the bar it will be locked in place from then on. Before i went to odi lock on grips this was my method and never had one slip or move ever. The lock on method is just nicer for changing them. But the air method will work to remove them also. Or a razor blade depending on how wore out they are.

Zero glue. And nothing sprayed on them. Dry is best 100%. Use your air compressor and the spray nozzle. Get it up inside the grip and hit it full blast. The pressure expands the rubber and you can slide it right to where you need it. Anything sprayed on even stuff that supposidly evaporates will still eventually start moving.

You will get it. I had to learn this lesson the hard way aswell lol. I was trying to leave the cable attatched and adjusted to save a few steps. What i did was push on the arm and the cover does come off with the reverse shaft stuck in it. But when i saw the spring just loose on the shaft i realized my attempt at saving steps actually made more lol. Keep us posted bud!

No problem! Were always glad to help! Welcome to the forums btw! What i found when removing the clutch cover on 400ex's with reverse. You gotta just remove the nut and arm and leave the shaft and arm in its place. What you will need to do now is flip the arm you pointed to in red to the other side of the shaft. That shaft does come out with alittle fiddling. I remember this being alittle bit of a pain in the butt. You gotta kinda hold the spring in tension while sliding the shaft back into place. I wanna say i had to use a flat tip screw driver to wedge at it alittle too. But what it does is lock the shift drum in place when its tensioned. And when you turn the knob it releases the shift drum to allow it to go into reverse. So since it moves so easy right now its not locking the shift drum and stopping reverse engagement.

I think i know what you did. Because i did this once myself. When you removed the clutch side cover. Did you remove the nut and arm off the reverse shaft? Or leave it attatched to the clutch cover when you removed it? If you did that second option.(which i did once myself) then the return spring for the shaft has to be put back in a tension to hold the stopper arm properly. Ever since i have removed the nut and arm and slid the whole cover off leaving the shaft in its place.

More than likely you have the adjustement wrong. You can adjust the barrel adjuster so it is always pulled and it will go right into reverse like you are saying it does. Clutch has nothing to do with it or the springs. That reverse switch cable had to be removed when the clutch side cover was off to change the clutch and its now adjusted wrong i would bet. Let me check out your video and see if i can see whats adjusted wrong.

Yep no doubt that would cause a leak out the overflow. Glad you got it sorted!

When you say leaking vent do you mean its leaking out the drain tube out bottom of carb? Vents would be out the top of the carb. If its leaking out the bowl drain its either a leaking float valve or the drain screw isnt all the way tight. Alot of times carb rebuilds come with a new needle but the seat is still the original one. Crud can build up on the seat and cause it to leak.

32 minutes ago, Barry said:

You have a title.for that frame?

No sorry. It was a spare frame a gncc racer had. He said it came from michigan. It has a full race gusset kit on it. And has been re-inforced in a few common stress points. It is powdercoated but appears to have been done many years ago. Vin# is intact and readable.

10 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

https://www.elevenwarriors.com/ohio-state-football/2021/12/127817/ohio-state-taking-cautious-approach-to-transfer-portal#comments

 

As hundreds of players have entered the transfer portal since college football’s regular season ended less than two weeks ago, Ohio State’s head coach has been taken aback.

“There’s so many guys who are in the portal right now, it’s mind-boggling,” Ryan Day said Sunday. “I think everyone’s just astonished by what’s been going on, and certainly I’m one of them.”

Did you read further down to realize they arent talking about transfers out of ohiostate. He is talking about the transfer portal in general. He talks about how they use it to pick up transfers. They also further down talk about how we are under the average for the big ten and most other teams including alabama have more and always do. LoL but i have no doubt alot of people hate on ohiostate because they are scared. Haha

13 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

 

 

Not sure I get what's going on at OSU , seen about 6 key players going into the transfer portale ,  cause they don't like what happened in the last game / season ???? 

Not sure where your getting your information? I would have to guess some of the buckeye haters club. But Ohiostate is actually under the average for transfering players in the big ten still which is well under the average for alot of other conferences. And 2 of the 6 (which is for the whole year btw not just recently or anything). Were quarterbacks. Which with how good the true freshman did for the season is an obveous reason to transfer somewhere you will get to play and its not gunna be behind Stroud in line thats for sure. For jeeps brother in-law. A primarily freshman team lost to a team of seniors and juniors. Nothing to get down about. This was supposed to be a rebuild year with as many new guys we had. And we still beat alot of good teams. Only direction we can go is up. Michigan is gunna lose half there team to the nfl next year if they make it in. LoL

I wont even get into the obveous ref payoff that went on or the average 5-6 holds on each of there scoring plays that were "missed" lol. Kinda sad honsetly.

Man i got an 04-05 trx450r frame i would sell real cheap but shipping from ohio would be insane. And its buried in the back of my storage unit.

Welcome aboard!

I run a one step colder plug. Because im high compression. Stock for my quad calls for a DPR8Z. I run a DPR9Z. But that is just what i was told to run for my build. Not exaxtly sure the reasoning behind it? Something to do with the higher compression creating more heat and causing pre-ignition. Get to technical for my understanding lol

Man oh man. Sending prayers! Hope she can get it all straightened out soon! Take care of her and yourself bud!

If there is anything at all we can do dont hesitate to ask!

Wow talk about some beautiful views! Those are some killer pictures! Weather up north stunk all weekend. Rained on and off saturday afternoon through today until just a few hours ago it finally stopped. Gunna be a wet start to the week by the looks of it aswell. Its a bucket list deal for me to one day go out west and ride some similar trails. Its just getting all the pieces togeather.

1 hour ago, RKDad said:

No doubt about low oil damage. This had less than a quart when I drained it and it was like maple syrup as well. Good to hear on the guides. Mine are like new as well. I thought for sure the knock was as you mentioned, from cam chain slap. Turned out to be low oil burned the wrist pin and the piston was dancing away in the cylinder. Still can't believe it ran, for about .2 sec. Fast as I could turn it off. Hey at least I got one and I don't mind working on them at all. 

 

Thanks,

RK

No problem! Always glad to help! One last thing i noticed. Dont use that head gasket that comes with that niche kit. Those gaskets are junk. Go with a MLS gasket of any kind. I prefer cometic myself. But i know that there are a few other options of MLS gaskets out there. Factory honda would have even been MLS. But you cant do a big bore kit with oem. I wanna say Vertex was one of the others. And maybe wiseco.