Dennis

On 2/5/2023 at 8:25 AM, Preston said:

I have a 2006 forman 500 that the front right wheel is cambered out really bad. Does anyone know if you can adjust it? I looked and can’t find anything 

By "cambered out", are you maybe meaning toe-out?  Not camber?

On 1/13/2024 at 8:07 AM, ATC4ever said:

I had one on an older 400. Had an older guy who also had one tell me to leave the key on for a few seconds before starting it & it started easier. You could try that if its working to see if there is a difference. 

Thanks.  I'm going to try that, maybe 10 seconds(?)  maybe more(?)

On 1/13/2024 at 3:39 AM, shadetree said:

most carb heaters operate from a temp sensor that is located somewhere at the front, under the front fender, its inside a clear plastic bag looking thing. there is no way to set it, its all automatic when you turn the key on. if ya ask me ?, they are worthless in my book. i have never understood what or why honda put these on atvs ?..they are nothing but junk. most newer atvs from honda are fuel injected, they do not need a carb heater. on older atv carbs, the choke worked just fine.

Thanks.  I often think these are over-engineered

On 1/13/2024 at 3:41 AM, shadetree said:

are you riding on pavement ?, this will ruin atv tires very fast. most atvs have either a toe in..or toe out ?, i run my tires straight on the front.

Most of my riding is not pavement.  Setting for straight, no toe, in or out, makes sense to me.  Wonder why Honda specs toe out?  I will probably adjust for "straight"

I see reference to a carburetor heater in the shop manual, and it is pictured in the carb section.
How does this work? There is no reference to using it in the Operator's Manual.
Do you turn on the key and let it heat? For how long?
It's getting colder and having more difficulty starting, more cranking required,
Anyone have info  on this?

My front tires are almost worn smooth, rear not nearly as worn.  Do you find that is so on others.  Maybe due to that toe out which seems so different than with an automobile that has toe in, not toe out

toe out chart.pdf toe out.pdf

All the best to you!

And a torque wrench for the ring crush.

Nice!  Looks tough and ready. 

11 hours ago, retro said:

 

You are correct! But correct with several caveats. You seem to have made an assumption that Honda motor oils meet wet clutch friction modifier specs better than any other motor oil, which is not true. The wet clutch specification in question is MA/MA2, and those wet clutch specs were not ever provided by Honda.... they are provided by the industry. Many motor oils meet or exceed the MA/MA2 wet clutch compatibility specifications.

 

It's not just the MA/MA2 spec that is important in a motor oil either. Oils must cool and lubricate, remain stable (and resistant to viscosity swings) throughout a wide temperature range, provide high pressure lubing and several other critically important properties. Each one of Honda's motor oil properties are spec'd by Honda, but the industry provides all of those specs that Honda chose from. Honda oils are blended and produced by an independent oil company at a low (-est) cost to Honda. There are many other motor oils being produced that exceed many, or all, of Honda's specifications & minimum requirements. There is always room for improvements in every product... and many other motor oil brands currently provide them.

 

So choosing a motor oil is a matter of personal choice.... since there are many very good products to choose from.

 

 

Thank you, good information.  I thank you.

To go to a Walmart, AmsOil , a cycle shop or auto store for my Foreman fluid, would require much more knowledge, time, or interest  than what I have.

So, grabbing the Honda oil is easier for me, and just hoping that I'm not doing anything detrimental to it. I don't think I am.   There certainly could be something better, even much better.  I don't put Briggs and Stratton oil in my equipment, but I try to stay with their branded filters.  

Thanks again

Don't know why I would deviate from the Honda oil for the wet clutch.  I have to believe the OEM oil has the proper friction modifiers.  

This coming from an ex-Allison transmission sales/service puke where we believed that the proper fluid is important.  With these machines we are not just lubing bearings, rings, pistons, gears, etc, we are in addition controlling clutch engagement.

If I'm wrong, please explain.

4 hours ago, shrade said:

have a question for you guys who plow a lot. What type of switch do you have on your winch? my factory switch lasted less than one season, replaced it with a "heavy duty" 15 amp toggle switch, it didn't last much longer. Any suggestions?

I have the original WARN,10 year old switch came with the WARN plow

15 minutes ago, shadetree said:

you are comparing a full size double cab 4x4 truck to a chevy s-10 here !..lol.

Ooops.....OK.  Guess I didn't appreciate the size of his machine  Thanks

I have a 07 Foreman 500.  Put the WARN 60" plow with their attachment equipment.  Does well.  I plow my driveway and pad.  8" not too unusual.  They have a friendly website to order.

That is it!  

These are what mine are like.  I am pretty sure this is the blade kit they have now..  Also in the Q&As, they say:

Q.Is this the blade kit for the DR Field and Brush Mower Pro Max 52T? Can I order extra bolts and nuts? Will the heavy duty blade kit also fit/ work on my Pro Max 52T?

https://www.drpower.com/Power-Equipment/Field-%26-Brush-Mowers/Accessories/Tow-Behind-Field-%26-Brush-Mowers-Accessories/Tow-Behind-Field-%26-Brush-Mower-Blades/Blade-Kit/p/000000000000228981

My Parts Catalog doesn't have a kit, just single blades, and that blade p/n is 221211, qty 2

They don't make my style anymore, they've gone to the Swisher style.  

Yeah!  But this seems to have more of a lift wing.  Is that a Swisher part?  What model?

No!  Just a single bar, two swinging blades on each end.

I like that Swisher design!  Much better it would appear anyway.

No, just standard blades.  Because they pivot between the drive and the end of the blade, to swing free of a heavy obstacle, I suspect that is why they don't want too much lift.  Hope that makes sense.

Interesting. I have a DR tow behind.  Its configuration is much like your Swisher.   It cuts anything, a beast too, but the ATV and mower wheels lay the grass down, and the mower doesn't have "lift".  Result is going over it at least twice, and/or in the opposite direction.  Looks like DR no longer makes this configuration, as your and mine were made.

Does the Swisher have lift to the knocked down grass?

I've only owned one plow for my '07 Foreman.  It is a WARN, bought '08, it has taken abuse and still good.  Just sayin

Also just looked at the Denali lineup, toodeep, and it looks ruggedly built at good pricing

OK thanks. 

My whole box lifts off when not needed or to remove the seat.  Made a "friction fit" on the rear rack to hold in place.  

Nice.  Mine is just a straight plow, I have to angle it both ways, to left, to right.....or straight

I like your utility box, much better than the one I built. 

What are the two tubes, left side of your box for?  I have slots cut in mine for my string trimmer and brush cutter

I have a WARN 54 inch plow on my 07 Foreman 500, works great for snow.  Snow can get too heavy with buildup, but usually melts before too much buildup.  Have plowed 10 years, replaced the shoes a while back and wear bar this year.  

Usually not a lot of snow here, no ice chunks like toodeep's 

Just found you and joined up.  2007 Foreman used around the property. Pull a tow-behind DR mower, utility trailer, and plow snow with it.

Never had a problem with it, still running the original battery and tires.   

Live in Bremerton/Seabeck, WA.