triharder

Its worked great over one winter of plowing. I wouldn.t go 3500 nxt time too overkill for the 3500. I.d go 2500 a synethic rope as well. Safer. Hope that helps

Okay, if the experts are telling me to stand down i'll run it as is. I was worried the top end (which i worked) was the issue. But as long as its not what i have physically touched i won't go any further. (I was just wondering if with the flywheel off, I could stethscope the outside of the crank bearing and turn over by hand and hear grumbling). I will stand down. I'll start a new build on the TRX200SX and possibly my other 88 2x4 TRX300. Both have been used and could use some love. Just need to finish the plow and winch installation on this one. From my limited experience Caltric fills a void where OEM dropped off. But, they don't necessarily meet OEM quality. Also one-way bearings are nothing new. Should we be seeing if companies in the US want to source us some bearings (I realize the Honda's seem to all have them?) Might just be a matter of giving them a size and seeing what they can do. just a thought.

do you think its worth running 20-50 weight oil before winter to seeif that changes my noise? Might pinpoint me to the crank bearings? Or is it worth pulling the flywheel and investigating the crank by rolling over the motor to see if i can pick up on the noise this way? Obviously, the easy answer here is just run it until something breaks or doesn't. But i'm probably more interested in tinkering than actually riding. Flywheel puller and gaskets are on there way. Anything i need to be aware of like the shift linkage on the clutch side? Also, caltric sells these one way bearings listed under hondas part number. Is it worth the effort to see if one of those bearings form, fit and functions the same? Might change the noise and then I know origin? Thanks again, Just realized how deep i need to get into my 86 TRX200SX with it on the lift yesterday. All four wheels feel like the bolts are loose at the hub but its tight.

I bought a did from g+h direct. So thats already covered. And installed. You still think its worth replacing again even if the tension checks out via the tensioner? Everything fit up and matched what i removed in my side by side check? Noise is oppsite side on the motor, shifter side. There is a bearing behind flywheel. its worth replacing that 1st? Have you ever had on go bad? Thanks i do appreciate the help.

Okay per stethoscope the noise is loudest if you touch the cap on the rotor. Interesting. If you touch the bottom end of the motor on the throttle side i get nothing. Or front. Top end you can hear the chain but no knocking. So. Is this a bad crankbearing on the rotor side or a typical trx350d noise? Shadetree any advice. Wish i could hook the stethoscope up to the phone. Thanks for any help you guys can give.

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Replaced fuel filter, rebuilt carb, synch slide to butterfly and set air fuel. Only issue i found was spring in air fuel missing the washer that acts like a spring seat and butterfly to needle synch was off. New choke piston came i. But it was shorter than existing, so i reused existing and choke is working good now. Also adjusted valves one exhaust was at .004 instead of .003. Last issue. Something is knocking in the bottom end. I think its bottom? Tried to pinpoint with screw driver to ear. You can feel it but i can.t pinpoint it yet. Are there any bearings that would cause a knock/hammering sound? I can take a video. But difficult to diagnose video.. Increases with rpm. Should i buy a new tensioner for the cam chain. Not likely issue as the chain is new. Have about 5 aolid hours on machine. Noise hasn.t changed.

Old starter took a toll on the brushs and the new "Made in Taiwan" DBelectronics starter installed. bike turns over way faster now. I tried to tackle the fuel filter before i do the carb but forgot to drain the fuel tank or shut off the petcock. Garage now stinks of gasoline. Will finish that up and the carb this weekend. But, choke worked fine yesterday in the 60 degree temps were in now. I might not bother replacing that piston. machine still idles fast then after a five to 10 second count the idle drops. I'm going to rebuild carb and then re-check the valves. I was gifted some CV joints that read Moose racing on them? P/N from dennis Kirk checks out? Shadetree are you saying these aren't usable? Let me know. I'll try to post some more pictures when i can.

new starter on order. New shindy carb kit on order. i'll buy new choke parts if the new carb kit doesn't solve my issues. I guess i'll be riding it with the front CVs as is. And i won't worry about front diff clutch plates?

Back with some questions. Bikes together ran it for 4 hours today about 50 miles, from power lines to dirt roads to san pit and back. Full throttle runs and slow going enough the fan kicked on. Runs great with three outstanding issues New parts. Cam chain, ring and piston, valve seals and new engine oil. New plug, new air filter, diff filter, Shadetree any advice would be appreciated. Issue 1) won.t crank on starter when hot. Will start if it catches immediately when hot but it it cranks more than once and the starter won.t crank it and slowly stops trying. Will start with kicker no problem. Battery is less than a year, charges up fine and shows full when the quad won.t turn over. Bike runs fine if you kick it. 1. Starter is original wires are clean as of yesterday and tight. But machine did sit outside for 10-15 years. It did not get better or change when i cleaned the starter terminals. 2. Battery works fine on other machine and tests fine under load test. Let it sit for 20 minutes catches and runs like nothing happened. Thinking i need a new starter? Or a brush kit? Thoughts. Issue 2: Bike starts when cold and revs up then after 5-7 seconds idle settles low, sometimes stalls (mimics a fuel injection system) this is with no choke, bike doesn.t respond to choke well unless very 1st start stine cold and you need to rurn it iff quickly.. If i ride it and it gets hot it will idle quick but if you give 5-7 seconds it drops. A little scary when you need to turn around as it moves when you expect it not too. Cable verified free, carb recently cleaned, previous owner rebuilt but did not change needle and i don.t know what carb kit he used. I.ll buy a shindy kit and install this week with a new needle. Fuel pump sounds awful but keeps up just fine. New fuel filter on order. Doesn.t respond well idle adjust. Will idle up but won.t stay at higher idle if that makes sense. I did not adjust fuel air screw but have tool now. Anything come to mind on low idle. Presents like a vacuum leak but it doesn.t hang up. I greased and tightened carb boots and boot to cylinder has a new oring. Think a needle would do that? 3rd outstanding issue. Front end chatter. I ran new front hypoid oil and rolling out of garage heard the front diff. So i changed synethic hypoid for dino with friction modifier. That didn.t work at all. Even pushing straight it chattered and was angry. So back to amsoil syn with addition friction modifer. 98% of the time no noise or chatter. Then a hard turn or backing up or something she'll chatter. Its not worrysome enough to think it will fail, is it worth pulling and replacing clutch plates? If its not consistent i don.t think its cv joints? Thoughts? If you accept its 35 years old and quirky its fine. But i want 35 years and feel like new.

No Shadetree I don't take Youtube as gospel. However, from my much less limited experience in small motor repair I have seem to have better luck with ethanol free in my small engines.

If anybody wants a laugh F9 covered the gas treatment question quite well. here's the link also, Projectfarm did a video on it as well. From what i've gathered if it sits ethanol free is the way to go (for me thats lawn mower, atvs, etc) daily driver get 10% ethanol. I'm not sure i'm a fan of gas treatment. Snake oil? I agree with whomever said they fill up the last tank with ethanol free. (Also, the typical snowmachine in Canada sees between 10 to 20k miles before rebuilds/etc depending on owner. Typically USA machine only goes 5 to 10k. USA is 10 ethanol, Canada I believe is ethanol free. Something to consider.

Following up. Motor Shop reviewed the measurments on the cylinder and we decided to overbore the cylinder and install a new piston etc. Got her back together. Got her tight and running. I'll post some pictures when i get a chance. Busy week at work. Next up about 20 minutes left in my 1 hour heat run. I'll swap the fluids, renew the rear diff fluid, plug, air filter, oil and oil filter. Then she'll be good to go. Still need to evaluate the fuel gage. Currently she's dead (funny it was flashing/working when i had the ground off for the gas pump). My 07 VFR800 let me stranded on the way to work tonight so i'm frustrated with honda tonight. More Stator/Reg/REf issues. started it and she won't make 14.1 volts at the battery so i should have left it home, but 3.5 miles later she cooked the a fuse and i had to call the wife. Ended up about 30 minutes late for work too. But, glad to have the TRX back together and running well. (interesting side not my compression is till at 135 psi, i think my gage is junk and ordered a new one via amazon), with a groomed up head, new parts and now broke in the only thing left is my broken gage. machine starts well and runs well so i don't think the 135 psi is a good measurement)

More progress and my kick sharter shaft bearing is crunchy. Looks like cylinder needs a bore to clear some defects. Nothing serious but she's old. I lapped the valves but probably need to cut the seats. Off to the local machine shop. Just need to verify turn around times, would like this outta my garage before fall. Jug and piston are off i.ll snap some more images.