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  1. No Shadetree I don't take Youtube as gospel. However, from my much less limited experience in small motor repair I have seem to have better luck with ethanol free in my small engines.
  2. If anybody wants a laugh F9 covered the gas treatment question quite well. here's the link also, Projectfarm did a video on it as well. From what i've gathered if it sits ethanol free is the way to go (for me thats lawn mower, atvs, etc) daily driver get 10% ethanol. I'm not sure i'm a fan of gas treatment. Snake oil? I agree with whomever said they fill up the last tank with ethanol free. (Also, the typical snowmachine in Canada sees between 10 to 20k miles before rebuilds/etc depending on owner. Typically USA machine only goes 5 to 10k. USA is 10 ethanol, Canada I believe is ethanol free. Something to consider.
  3. Following up. Motor Shop reviewed the measurments on the cylinder and we decided to overbore the cylinder and install a new piston etc. Got her back together. Got her tight and running. I'll post some pictures when i get a chance. Busy week at work. Next up about 20 minutes left in my 1 hour heat run. I'll swap the fluids, renew the rear diff fluid, plug, air filter, oil and oil filter. Then she'll be good to go. Still need to evaluate the fuel gage. Currently she's dead (funny it was flashing/working when i had the ground off for the gas pump). My 07 VFR800 let me stranded on the way to work tonight so i'm frustrated with honda tonight. More Stator/Reg/REf issues. started it and she won't make 14.1 volts at the battery so i should have left it home, but 3.5 miles later she cooked the a fuse and i had to call the wife. Ended up about 30 minutes late for work too. But, glad to have the TRX back together and running well. (interesting side not my compression is till at 135 psi, i think my gage is junk and ordered a new one via amazon), with a groomed up head, new parts and now broke in the only thing left is my broken gage. machine starts well and runs well so i don't think the 135 psi is a good measurement)
  4. More progress and my kick sharter shaft bearing is crunchy. Looks like cylinder needs a bore to clear some defects. Nothing serious but she's old. I lapped the valves but probably need to cut the seats. Off to the local machine shop. Just need to verify turn around times, would like this outta my garage before fall. Jug and piston are off i.ll snap some more images.
  5. Baxk at it tonight. Compression still low 125 psi tonight. Tried to leak test but its not being helpful. Had a buddy help hold the crank. Leaking 5 psi less than my gauge and i can hear air. Can.t quite locate it. At 90 psi it was leaking intake and exhaust. My valve lash checjed out loose so perhaps carbon on valves. Heads coming off. No leakage at crank vent, and if you dont hold on at 50 psi the piston will rotate. Thinking rings are fine? Guess i.ll know more one head is off. So. Gasket kit recommendation? And viton valve seals any good? Vlv cover was removed tonight. Tomorrow clutch cover and start at cam chain. This weekend head cleaning and lapping. Still not sure where i.m hearing leakage at head wven at 5 psi, nothing at vent and sounds almost like head gasket. We held it for 5 minutes at 90, checked to make sure rockers were loose and still had play. Thing runs great, or at least did before i touched it. More to come
  6. I bought and recieved new copper gaskets for the header. If anybody is sure the old ones are in the head I'll figure out how to get them out for room for the new ones. I wasn't sure if they were still there (i believe they are) and does anybody think pulling the nut frozen on the stud worth removing? or just install as a bolt effectively now? I'm suspect of my tailpipe. Might need to redo that with primer and paint and only do two of the 3 steps for curing the paint. I was going to adjust the valves before cam chain and then again verify after. But i can wait till the end. I guess leakdown test will prove whether the heads coming off or if my compression tester is off (i'm suspect of it). Also will shake out the rings or valves for where my issue. With the header off i should be able to feel air at the exhaust if those valves are carbon build up or if nothing present there then the intake (i haven't removed the carb as the previous owner already cleaned that up. Thanks again for any help people are willing to provide.
  7. Okay a few items to discuss. 1) tried the 2000 degree high heat black paint no primer on my tailpipe and jb weld patch. I did not prime the siliencer. I heat treated in the has grill at 250 for 30, let cool, then 400 for 30 let cool. Then got distracted on final 600 degrees and of course when i checked it ten minutes n Later the grill tan up to 650 on my none calibrated gauge and it had a lot of ash. Cold be burnt up tin foil, old food greae or other. I could and did rub off the black See pix below. Will decide how header heat treatment goes if i.m going to tedo siliencer with primer, also midded what i thought was a drainage hole. Its a rust hole. Might just patch or redo wil see. 2nd. Pulled covers off valves and was getting all the way up to .005" clearance. Weird as i always thought valves wore tighter as the compress the seats. Will adjust before timing chain replace. 3rd. Did a cold compeession check with header off and got 155 psi. Which is pretty low. However book specs a warm engine test. S Correct me if i.m wrong but shouldn.t it be close cold or warm? Also would loose not tight valves keep the compression number low?. BasicLly should i just order new rings and pull the jug too? Tomorrow leak down test. Should give me health of valves. Probably makes sense to replace cam chain, adjust valves and test compression while warm. Thing starts first rotation and feels fine with no excess smoke when it runs. Save me from myself please.
  8. She's an 86 XL250R dirtbike. Still running and like i mentioned before "if there is a mistake to be made i've made it".
  9. Not sure what you mean about pressure chamber? Yes the whole thing sees pressure. There is a good youtube video of somebody building one of these i watched. I jb welded it for now. Welding my plan would have been to roll new steel and patch to good metal. But jb weld will work for now. Figured i.d post this if anybody can guess the machine. Shadetree thanks for any help you can provide. If there is a mistake to be made i.ve made it. Would rather not break something that can.t be replaced on this rig. Trying to decide if chasing the fuel gauge intermitt working is worthwhile. Saw a great post here of the inner workings. Looks like a tank that sat for 12 years probably ly needs the inside cleaned up to made bettercontacts. Kid before me cleaned it out and ran fuel filters in series until the gas was clear (clever as he paid 250 bucks for this thing). Why they would do the fuel gauge is crazy, why not just the arm in the tank and circuit on the outside i.ll never know. Looks easy enough once the tank is off. Does anybody know where the grounds are for the electrical, would like to clean them up before getting in too deep. As always keep the suggestions coming. I.m going to print out that cam chain advice before i start that project .
  10. Oh i already popped it off, my new one just doesn.t feel secure and the old one doesn.t either. New problems? Jb weld (2 part epoxy). Or? Silver braze (map torch and some wire) Or Pay ti have welded as i lack tooling and skill. See above image
  11. Beautiful machine. I wanted the winch in either case but your correct the plow could be manual. Stickered up today while i wait for that cam chain to arrive this week and the $80 bucks in seals i bought today if needed for that clutch cover. Still need New stickers. Nxt up Cam chain, Rear axle oil seals Exhaust coat, muffler patch Fuel tank gauge apart and cleaned. And still need help welding the front rack and winch mount But theres no rush. I tried to swap the switch knobs on the left handlebar with a replacements. Now i think i might need to superglue the run knob as the old tab is non existent. Not sure touching things makes them better or worse. Also i supposed i should swap to a build thread as i.m sure i.ll have more questions as i continue with cam chain. Think its worth replacing the brushes in the starter for good measure?
  12. Sorry. My fault, nothing has been cut. (I did cut exhaust wire guard to get the header out) i will fix it. Checked timing chain i.m at about 1/4 left on tensioner. So adjust left but not a lot? I bought a cam chain just need to decide if i.m swapping. I also have a valve cover to re hondabond. So it makes sense to check clutches too i guess. Then its off to pulling the siliencer and fixing rot in the bottom (jb weld this none pressure area). More to come. I was going to weld my front rack/fix but i ran out of talent. Oh and i need new rear seals.
  13. I'm working out the mount situation currently. (installed in front of the location you did). my 3/16 plate isn't what wanted and i bought a 1/4, but i need to catch the front bolt holes for the rack with my mount when i'm done. (Its not lost on me this 4-wheeler weighs what 500 lb-600 lbs. I bought the badlands 3500 (as i figure oversize motor tugging a low weight is better than the harbor freight 2500 for the same duty). guard is removed for painting Also i need to fix the front rack that is broken. tried to source a replacement but they are bend in about the some spot. I noted your welded location in my research but can not wrap around welding on the frame as its not a replaceable component. Same with splash guards. Would rather not cut if i could help it.
  14. New to me 1988 TRX350D. Finally found the utlity quad i was after. I own a shorter driveway (110 feet) and wanted a workhorse to plow it and also tug a yard trailer around my larger (kidding) 1.5 acre property This popped and up and jumped. It needs nothing and was good to go (actually needed a new header as the header was split after a failed repair weld). A friend bought and got her running after 15 years of sitting in another friends yard. One it was running with new tires I bought i up. Trying to mount a winch and also restoring some odds and ends. Glad to be here
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