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    Frenchville, Maine
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  1. Wife just TOLD me she wants a small ATV to navigate our property and haul around gardening tools and such. Don’t need 4wd. Maybe 20% trail riding and we have nice trails available. Found a ‘21 Recon foot shift at the dealer and they want MSRP for a left over ‘2021 and I’m hesitant to give them that. Do I keep shopping around?
  2. Currently


    I have several cold weather outfits, the most used one is a 20 year old Carhart one piece with the black arctic weight liner. ‘Reason it lasted so long is it is only comfortable below 30 degrees and I lived in TN for a while. Problem I have is it is not waterproof, if I’m plowing while it is still snowing, the snow melts and it gets wet and cold after an hour or two. So I broke down a couple days ago and bought a Choko snowmobile jacket and bib pants. It’s light and comfortable in subzero weather. It is way too warm for temps above freezing. My boots are Baffin’s and they are incredibly warm and comfortable. 6+ hours in sub zero weather and feet are toasty warm. Beats the heck out of my old Sorels. The biggest recommendation I have is a good balaclava that covers face, neck and upper chest. Without one, I can last an hour or two in subzero weather. The better ones are found in motorcycle and snowmobile establishments. ‘One can last all day dressed properly. They are predicting -60F windchill over the weekend. Anxious to see how the new gear works out.
  3. ‘Thank you both for the feedback. @toodeep @PROV Reason I went with the pulley is to slow it down and give me better control. Hopefully rope will last longer also. I’ll stick with what I have for now and learn to use what I got better.
  4. Well, I got the 54 inch Honda Warn package with my ‘22 Rubicon and put it to work today on 10 inches of snow. On low range the engine never bogged down, wondering if I should have gone with the 6 foot plow. Any one has one set up? Does it bog down the front end too much? I’m gonna max out the preload on the shocks tomorrow. This is what I did after researching several forums … 20 inch axle strap looped on top rack (Tractor Supply) couple cable clamps with rope thimble Amstel synthetic rope double folded so I got 4 strands supporting the plow SSACK snatch block that perfectly fits on plow. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X6GDJJW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details I needed the sheave width to handle 4 strands of rope without jamming on the sides of the snatch block. I’m still thinking through mounting a linear actuator for plow angle. I need to design the mounting hardware. As always, suggestions and criticism are welcome.
  5. @Fishfiles Always disconnect your hose from the house in freezing weather. The ice expands and damages your valve seats causing a leaky valve that needs to be replaced. Lived in cold weather most of my life and this cost me money, time and water. If I need to defrost a windshield quickly, I take a gallon container and fill it with cool to lukewarm water. Never use hot water as that will crack the windshield.
  6. I will start by drilling a hole at the end of it. Then I will plow all winter with it and if it grows I’ll just replace it. Plastics aren’t cheap. They want $175 at Partzilla.
  7. Discovered a 2 inch crack on front right fender side. Looked if there are any fender extenders/flares for the Rubicon 520’s and it doesn’t look like there are any. Don’t want it to grow, what kind of plastic weld kit you all recommend?
  8. Thanks for all who replied. I’m going to edit the OP with part names/part numbers as time allows. Been rather busy fixing a house I just bought getting it ready for winter. ‘As soon as things settle down, will try to make this post as good as retro’s shifter post.
  9. That is a good start! Can’t really call myself a mechanic, but I’m a good part replacer. I say that because I have been humbled by some great mechanics I have met that showed me it can be an art. Always had the mindset if I have the tools and learn something new, being self reliant is a good thing. Just hate having downtime waiting for parts that may take weeks to come in. Thank you for the suggestions I missed. 👍 As for bearings, are there other bearings that commonly fail? I know wheel bearings go bad due to mud and water. Forgot to mention the rubber grommets that hold the plastic on. Already have a couple spares as they seem to ‘disappear’ on me.
  10. Question for all you longtimers out there. Dealer is 65 miles away … we are experiencing unprecedented supply chain issues. When I was into motorcycles, I had a ‘stash’ of spare parts such as filters, lubes, set of tires/rims, chain and sprocket so that maintenance was quick, convenient and available when needed. What are the common points of failure for ATV’s in general? I already have a 2 year supply of oil/filter changes and the OEM tires/rims. From what I am reading … Axles Wheel bearings … other bearings? Air Filter/filter oil kit - so I can just swap it out instead of waiting 24 hours for it to dry after washing out. Differential fluids spark plug Am I missing anything? Trying to keep everything OEM as my days of modding for incremental gains are over. Just want reliability and maintenance convenience. @shadetree @Fishfiles @jeepwm69 @_Wilson_™ @retro Thank you in advance for all responses!
  11. @retro I’m still an ATV noob, worked and maintained my motorcycles for years. I read your article several times on maintaining and improving the ES system to understand what is being done. One thing that I got from reading is the DCT is a different beast and doesn’t apply to this procedure. Other than the dielectric grease which I will be doing in the coming month, is there a similar procedure for the DCT? The main use for my Rubicon will be working on my property, some logging, hauling crap with my trailer and last but not least trail riding on fire roads and local ATV trails. Not interested in submerging it or doing high angle climbs with it. Only mods are protective mods; OEM bumpers, aluminum skid plates, recoil starter and Warn/Honda plow system. I do have the current service manual and studying it. Thanks for that write up, it is quite eye opening.
  12. Point taken. I did state in my post to not let fuel sit in a small engine. However I am guilty of planning to cut more wood with my saw or do one more mow with my mower and life happens and the next thing you know I get the “Oh Crap “ moment the following spring. I know better, s*** happens. All I’m looking for is tribal knowledge so I can make an informed decision.
  13. Thanks for all the feedback! Looks like if I’m going to burn all the gas immediately, it’s okay to use ethanol fuel. If the engine will not be used for periods of time, ie lawnmowers, chainsaws, weedeaters, boats and other 2/4 cycle engines, use non ethanol fuel. Storing equipment with ethanol fuel is to be avoided due to evaporation and absorbing humidity from the air from temperature extremes causing air to move in and out of a tank. Small engine storage should be done with empty fuel tank and running motor dry. Sealed metal cans is the preferred method to store gasoline long term. Plastic containers vent out in heat and collapse inwards in cool and cold weather, I have several of those in my garage right now. Substantial anecdotal evidence from small engine repair shops that ethanol fuel increases repair events and impacts carbureted long term reliability. Fuel stabilizer use offer marginal protection that can be omitted if the steps above are followed. @triharder I will verify if Canadian fuel is ethanol free. Those videos are quite eye opening. Thank you for all your contributions.
  14. Y’all confirming what I suspected and will run ethanol free gas in my ATV like I do with my chainsaws, mower and other small engines. All they have locally is 93 and it is very expensive. 87 is all these small engines need, 93 comes into play with only high compression engines.
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