BlueJay

Any special trick to pulling the gearshift arm without pulling the clutches? There is a pin/shaft on the gear arm that is keeping it from swinging free and pulling free.

One more update, I tried to get the gearshift arm off to inspect it but the clutches are in the way. Is it possible to remove both clutches without the special tools listed in the FSM? Thanks.

One more thing, it seems that it is getting stuck in third gear when I shift back up (manually) for what that’s worth.

I just pulled the front cover and everything inside seems to be in place. The gearshift arm and the spindle arm are not broken and seem to be in the correct location as far as I can tell. I have the rear wheels off the ground but it will only shift down and not back up when I use the manual shifter and rotate the wheels. Is there something else I should be looking for? The interior of this motor looks factory new, especially to be 23 years old. No metal shavings or parts broken off. What should I try next next? Thanks.

I figured this was the next plan of action after redoing the ES system as per the excellent write-up that was posted here. I will get on that next weekend since I am done helping a friend build a fence. When I pull the front cover do I need to drain the oil first? The wet clutch concept is new to me. Thanks.

After digging through all of the posts on ES shifting issues, I decided to post my problem and see what replies I get. I got this 2000 TRX350TE and had everything up and running in the 1 acre backyard (looks like a dirt track now) and it ran & shifted fine for several runs. After the next to last run it stuck in third & wouldn’t shift even with the manual shifter. I drug it back to the garage and got it to shift manually when I had the wheels off the ground and rocked it. I did the ES servicing according to a write-up someone had posted & took it out for another run about 10-15 minutes and it shifted perfectly. I stopped and tried to reverse it and it wouldn’t shift back up to the low gears again. It would shift down to the higher gears but not back up but I couldn’t tell which gear it was in since my display is burned out in the gear area (next on the list). I read a long post on angle sensors and an upgrade but didn’t know if it will fit mine or even if that is the issue. I haven’t pulled the front case to check the innards but I am open to suggestions. Thanks.

I have been working on my 2000 TRX350FE and have a few more things to do to it before I trust it to take me way down into the woods during deer season (which just ended). I don’t plan to use it all that much between now and August when the season comes back in unless I find a convenient place to ride for fun. Is it a good idea to run the carb dry after I do use it? I am running ethanol free and have a good shutoff valve which I always turn off. Just wondering.

My son & I “scratch built” this thing from a bunch of spare parts back in 09. It actually ran pretty well and would “turn on a rail” due to its low center of gravity and differential axle. Still have it in the back of the shed waiting on the grandkids.

Finally got it running and took several laps around the backyard and everything is working - even the gears shift through the entire range. The front brakes are still spongy after several bleed sessions and I noticed it was it was leaking at the bleed screw on the left side. The rear brakes are good (I rebuilt everything front & rear) so it does stop with that. I was wondering if I could swap out the leaking front bleed screw with a standard bolt until I can get back to that problem without introducing too much air into the system? The front brakes do stop it but it is pushing the rubber cap off so I know it is leaking there. Thanks.

Hey, at least I know how to test a diode now!

Solved: I finally figured it out. The plug harness to the solenoid was faulty. I had tested all the voltages as per the FSM and everything was checking out correctly but all the measurements were done with the harness unplugged. I put a new solenoid in and it still would not click. I hot bumped the solenoid and the starter turned normally so I knew it wasn’t getting voltage. The plug to the solenoid didn’t seem like it was a firm connection so I cut the wires and put on spade plugs and the starter now fires with the start button. Had me scratching my head for days.

My thinking exactly. Should I just unplug it and throw in the PLO box or is it part of the circuit that would cause problems if not there? Thanks.

I am getting the Barn Find Rancher 350 (2000) ready to crank with the new solenoid and I noticed that the Carb Heater was wrapped to the frame by the PO. I live in SC where we wear shorts & a t-shirt on Christmas day. Does this part have a purpose in our climate? What is its true function? It is easy to put back in but I was just wondering. Thanks

When you get a chance, here is my current display. What is your diagnosis? Thanks. It is a Rancher TRX350 TE if that makes a difference.

My gut tells me the solenoid is frozen since the voltage is correct. I am going to get a new solenoid and try that out. I also plan to hot jump the starter and see what kind of mood it is in. Thanks for all the replies.

The bike is a 2000 Rancher TRX350TE. I went through the diagnostic from the FSM all the way down to the diode and everything checks out fine according to the manual. Still no click at the solenoid. I wonder if it is a bad solenoid and should I start throwing parts at it?

It has been sitting for at least 5 years. I didn’t see any chewed wires but plenty of “dirt dobber” nests (wasp like insect that builds dirt nests in every crevice they can find). The starter doesn’t look that hard to remove so I will proceed as per the FSM. Thanks.

After working on this thing for over a month, I finally tried starting it. When I pressed the starter button nothing moved, clicked, etc but I was able to start it after several pulls on the manual pull cord. It ran but I still need some work on the carburetor. That being said, what is the best plan of attack for diagnosing the starter issue. I checked the fuses and I plan on checking the switch itself and then moving forward. Thanks for any suggestions you all might have. PS, After digging through the FSM I see a really good diagnostic routine for checking the starter function. I think this is exactly what I need but if anyone has some quick tips I will take them!

I recently picked up a “barn find” 2000 Rancher 350 ES. I rebuilt the carburetor and all of the lines running to it were dry rotted so I just tossed them out. The main fuel line is pretty obvious but all of the smaller lines are a mystery. I looked at the FSM but it was inconclusive at this point. Does anyone have a link or a photo as to where all of the smaller hoses route? I am finally ready to put the carb back on and fire it up. Thanks.

Finally got the rear brake rebuilt as well as new front pads and pistons. I plan on rebuilding the master cylinder next but the fluid inside looks like coffee. Should I try to purge the fluid with the banjos unhooked or is it okay to pull all of that old fluid through the new pistons and out the bleed screws? Thanks

Yeah this thing has the electronic shift which is a new thing for me. I was able to use the “emergency shift” to get it into neutral so I will check the ES functionality next. Thanks for all the good advice!

Thanks for the replies. I have redone the brakes and lines, new filters & battery, and all the obvious external stuff. I am mainly concerned with prepping the engine for firing up. I plan on replacing all of the fluids but is there anything special to do to the internals of the engine before I try to start it after sitting so long. Thanks.

New member here. I recently acquired a 2000 Honda Rancher ES (TRX350TE) that had been sitting in a barn for 5 years unused. Before I try to crank it, what steps should I take before pulling the cord? I have rebuilt mowers and small tractors for years but ATV’s are a new venture. Thanks.