JPelletier

18 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I would think what they meant to say is the chain fit flush with the cam sprocket , they kept saying cam in that quote ^^^^ 

Right! Also the SDH has been discontinued few years ago, new version according to DID is: SCA0412ASVX114

So I decided to contact didchain, and what an amazing customer service! Here is the official answer as reference if anyone search in the future:

 

Quote

Thibault isn’t 100% incorrect about the SCR version being a slightly beefier version of the SCA. This is true, however, when it comes to cam chains it’s best to use the exact same OEM supplied chain as that is what was designed specifically for your engine. These silent cam chains have to sit flush, so to speak, with the cam in order to function properly as it was designed to do.

Below are the dimension differences between the two and you can see that there are some variances, such as the height of the inner link plate and thickness of the outer link plate. Those small differences can cause the chain not to sit flush on the cam.

 

I’m giving a video presentation with Thibault and their sales staff later this week, and this is one of the points that I will be sure to address.

 

I do apologize for the confusion and added steps and wasted time, but the SCA-0412A SV would be the proper cam chain.

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

this ----> SCA0412ASDHA114 , is what should have been on the D.I.D. box !. links are the same on the chain you purchased, but i sure do not like the way it sits on the cam teeth !..lol.

Called my Honda dealer, confirmed me I had the good one based on his system. Than he called the Importer and the guy told him it was the exact same chain, but SCR is more robust and since it was confusing people, they decided to import/sell SCR only and doesn't sell SCA anymore... so now I don't understand why it doesn't fit better than that.

9 hours ago, Melatv said:

Hi: How or why did you go about ordering that chain? --- doesn't look right to me.

10 hours ago, Goober said:

ive never done a cam chain. I thought the links should fit completely snug on the drive teeth.

Yeah like I said, it's not what I ordered, I received wrong one. But after looking at specs, the only difference from the good one is 0.15mm height. It seems to clear cylinder cover and it's same pitch so I think it should be good. 

Ordered from Honda dealer! 

Really would like @shadetree opinion on that chain! 

21 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Hi: This will work for you

 

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-moly-extreme-pressure-grease-400-g-0280851p.html

Humm are you 100% sure, this is not an engine assembly grease it's more for chassis parts like this one: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rotella-special-duty-moly-grease-400-g-0280841p.html no ??

I'm also trying to find molybdenum disulfide grease for my Camshaft, called 2 car parts store 2 ATV shop including Honda dealer... can't find it! Only thing I've found is Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube, seems to be for camshaft but not moly

@shadetree @Goober your thoughts on the chain? I took a picture of the "fitment", don't know if it should perfectly sit on the gear or those small gaps are normal. I don'T want to do it twice 🙂

Just received my chain, it's not what ordered! I don't understand anything in all those numbers / letters on chains. Will this fit? 

I asked for SCA-0412A SDH, I finally found detailed informations and it SCR seems a bit stronger, narrower (10.3mm vs 11mm) and have a bit more height (6.85mm vs 6.70mm)

Just now, AKATV said:

Per manual there supposed to be no clearance between throttle link and valve shaft (no play)

Impossible to adjust the play out with no adjusting tang left

I would imagine it will still run-but if you want it to be correct you will need to replace tang or carburetor

Yeah I know, but if you look at my picture, shaft arm is touching throttle link so I don't have any play there

3 minutes ago, AKATV said:

Yep-

Previous owner broke the adjusting tang off

I would recommend getting a parts carb off ebay and rebuild it if you want it to be right

But if you look at video, it doesn't seems that bad on synchronisation. @shadetree your thoughts on that? I also would like your opinion on my hondabond question 🙂 

Today I rebuilded my Carburetor, first time I do that. Now in the manual they say "adjust synchronization by opening or closing the slot in the throttle link" but I don't have any slot, it has been removed by previous owner, can this cause issue?

Here is a video showing my throttle in action: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2mGoSNtGSbGJUcEC6

Thanks!

10 hours ago, shadetree said:

dont need to soak anything on the centrifugal clutch if its used ?, new..yes..old..no. same goes for the friction disk in the change clutch. no, do not use loctite on the change clutch bolts, i dont anyway. for removing gaskets ?, i use a utility knife blade, pocket knife, scrape most off, then i use my bench grinder that has a wire wheel on it to remove the remaining gasket, if you do it this way ?, try not to hold it in one spot very long !, you do not want to make the sealing surface uneven !.

Perfect, will not soak them they are used. 

8 hours ago, Goober said:

I soak the gasket with a little carb cleaner —loosens it up. Then i use a plastic decal scraper. I haven’t removed a lotta gaskets but i hate scratching the case and carb metals.

Yeah I already hate that lol, will try with plastic scraper. 

Another question, for my cylinder head cover I wanted to use Hondabond HT but the dealer near me said they are using permatex ultra grey or black!!! I was very surprised since even Permatex say:

Quote

Never use an RTV gasket maker on an application that will be exposed to gasoline, such as a powersports vehicle

Source: https://www.permatex.com/ten-common-gasketing-mistakes/

They only have Hondabond 4 in stock right now, can I use that for my cylinder head cover or I should order HT ?

15 minutes ago, TRX Student said:

I had the same problem, didn't want to wire wheel everything, theres a really good WD 40 cleaner you can get at canadian tire, comes in a spray bottle.

As for gasket material, I used a very sharp blade, and patiently went around everything. Took for ever.

Ca prend la patience.

Ok thanks, will take a look because they don't have any gasket remover in stock near me and shipping will take too long 

Also, since my secondary clutch will be out for 1 week do I have to soak it in new oil before installing it? And I saw in another post that loctite is required on secondary clutch four bolts?? Nothing about that in manual 

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

bout time you started posting pics !..lol. your in great hands here !.

And I already have a Question, what do you recommend to cleanup my crankcase / cover, remove the old gasket and prepare surface for new one ?

Think to use a wood chisel very gently to remove old gasket and I have 600 grit Emery Cloth but I'm pretty sure it's a band idea to use that 🙂 So what do you recommend?

Here is the Centrifugal clutch from my "parts vtt". On the side by side picture, the old one is on the left and the "new old one" on the right. Arms are worn too but it seems impossible to find Aftermarket so I hope it will do the job

Hi!

I never owned a VTT and I'm a Software Engineer with very basin knowledge in Mechanics. Last autumn, I got 2 Fourtrax (86' and 91') that have been stored for a few years for cheap, and one more for pieces. I already have a tread on another forum but @shadetree really really want me to post my projects here 😉 This thread is for the 86' restoration!

Plastics are not in good shape, but I'll use it on my woodland so I don't care.. for now 🙂

First I changed battery, Spark plug, drained old gas / oil than used a bit of Sea Foam in gas tank and Marvel Mystery Oil inside the cylinder to make it start! 

Now the real fun start, engine doesn't sounds good when running and something continue spinning after stopping it: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7jEyWZkM99TYcr5u5  

With the help of @shadetree I confirmed that Timing chain is dead, I can insert adjuster almost completely and after removing the cover, I saw damages caused by the chain probably hitting cover while running

And the spinning sounds is caused by the from Centrifugal clutch one way bearing totally dead, and the linings are totally worn too.

Hopefully, the Centrifugal clutch and Bearing on my "parts vtt" seems in good shape, si I will use this one. Now I'm waiting for a new chain, gasket, orings, sealing washers this week!

1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

Welcome to the forums !!! , I don"t know a lot about 350 Foremans , Shade and Goober  are the gurus here on them ----  But I know they didn't sell  them in the USA that year so , so deductive reasoning , you might be a Canuck , I got some Canuck friends , at least I hope I still do !!! 

Yep Canucks 🙂 I'm from Quebec, Canada and it also make it harder to find some parts hehe 

Hi guys, 

I'm making my first steps in the ATV world and it's starting with thee restoration of 2 old Fourtrax 350, 1991 and 1986. Currently the 91 is in good shape, started to work on the 86 which need more love.  @shadetree helped me a lot already and recommended to me join this forum!