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sled_22

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  1. If you don't have a lot of money invested in the case i.e. new bearings, new crank etc. etc., I would just run it. They're probably casing cracks. Stick a thin gasket/seal pick down in the holes and see what you get prying a little if you want. I just rebuilt my transmission on my 06 and had some areas that looked very similar with less pitting. Never blinked an eye at them.
  2. So i read this as a parts bike then kind of like he listed. I'm more looking for a project bike to restore/resell as whole. There's just not a lot available right now and was hoping to find something before the snow flew.
  3. I've been looking for a rebuild bike to essentially flip or keep depending. How much would you be will to deal for this? I feel like with no compression, it should be cheaper, like $250 max?
  4. That's cheap. For $200 you can have a nice set up. If i can find another rebuild sometime soon i might invest.
  5. How much does a parts washer such as this run a feller? I'd be tickled to have one.
  6. sled_22

    Firearms

    Anchor point is where hold your hand against your head to look down the sights of the bow. If you don't hold your hand in the exact same spot every time you shoot, your pin placement and arrow placement will be inconsistent. Many factors play a part, release strap, clothing, glasses/contacts, etc. An example of the difference it can make, hold a finger out in front of you and point at something, then close one eye. Now open the other eye and close the first. (hopefully you have both eyes). your finger will be pointing else where because your line of sight moved. Same principle with a bow. You have to keep your line of sight down the arrow consistent. Lots of practice is usually required or adding tools to your bow to help correct tendencies. Sled
  7. I ran a Pro-X & wiseco piston in a blaster i had as a kid too... Put 4 top ends in it. Kept burning a hole in the top of the piston. And after the first rebuild i deleted the oil injection and mixed everything from there out. This blaster was a little too decked out too, piped, jetted reeds, port, clutch etc. It had balls for a 200 but so many it would choke on them and be swallowed through the top of the piston. Sometimes it's more circumstantial than quality parts. I should have just bought a bigger machine if i wanted more power (but i was young and couldn't afford a $5000 machine).
  8. sled_22

    Firearms

    I’ve been shooting bow for 20 years. Best word of advice, compound or crossbow; anchor point and level shooting is everything. I bought a $300 iq pro hunter a couple years ago and I couldn’t believe how much little things Effected my anchor. Wrist torque and release strap twist. All sorts of crap to throw you off. Figure out the best way to shoot level and anchor consistently. That’s my $0.02
  9. Yeah I grew up with a 90 and 110 ATC. both chain drive and both had the gear reduction. I remember riding it so young that i couldn't pull start it myself. I either had to have my dad do it or get lucky and pop start it down the hill... and then pushing it back up the hill and trying again. If i only knew back then what I know now... We'd always have problems with chain, breaking masters and binding up in the case. That poor case of mine had been jb welded 3-4 times from the ! chain. But that's how i learned to take engines apart and put them back together... Back on topic, do they make these torq lockers for the 500 and new machines? I haven't had my front apart yet to know if it'd be a good (eventual) upgrade.
  10. I grew up on a mid 80s 90cc ATC... As a kid i never knew it had a high range, just three gears. The day i figured out about the high gear reduction, may have been the day rolled the thing on multiple times... dad says "found the high range huh?" after seeing bent handle bars and a cracked fender.
  11. You're guaranteed to shoot the biggest buck of your life which will die in the gnarliest briar infested hole known to man so long as you have the wheeler ripped apart on your work bench. just sayin'
  12. Side note. I do think the axle needs to be replaced but for a few weeks I don’t think I’m going to worry about it. It just needs to get me through hunting season. Which means for a couple weeks using it to check cameras and then if I were to shoot something, haul it out of the woods. This quad has seen its days of abuse and will now be babied from here out. I just need some new tires at some point.
  13. All bearings inspected. Checked gear lash. Repacked with grease. Oiled bearings in the case and and for the hubs. Greases swingarm bearings as those looked good and threw it all back together. Took it for a spin around the yard and all seemed well. I’ll take my boys for a ride tomorrow in the woods to check trail cams and make sure all is else is well but I suspect it’ll be fine. lesson learned here: if something feels wrong, there probably is. Because I felt those two Or three clunks, I probably saved myself hundreds in potential damage By tearing it apart. if one of those bearing guides jammed funny I could have broke a case or shaft or anything really. plus now I know the rear end is good. So the carb, engine and rear end have been gone through. Next will be the front end, I’m sure there’s ball joints that could be changed but I’d like to wait for a winter project with that. sled.
  14. Just found this too. Definitely a cap for a ujoint. Gotta be left over debris
  15. So. The swing arm is out. I have inspected the ujoint and it looks pretty good. Output shaft is fine on the motor and I don’t see anything with the drive shaft. It looks new. There was a bunch of metal debris in the boot from engine to swing arm. This is a new to me machine which had first gear out. Everything came apart pretty easily and looked like new grease in the entire thing along with new rear end oil. Did I just buy a machine that had an drive shaft failure and they didn’t clean all the crap out of it and I was chewing up old debris? Here’s some pictures. I need to look at the parts fiche and see if there’s anything missing. There’s a chip out of the collar on where the drive shaft enters the rear end.
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