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Pampas56

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  1. I am looking to buy a spare chain for my 028AV super and need to understand these numbers on the bar. I get that this bar requires .325 chain as opposed to 3/8, but the rest of this is not clear. I see .063 in the lower right. What is that referring to? Does 81 in the lower corner refer to the number of drive links? The big question are bar and chain combos brand specific, or can Oregon chain be run on Stihl bars and vice versa as long as the dog width matches? Sorry if these question are unclear or sound dumb. I am known on my BILs race team as the overthinker, and need to understand as much as I can about most everything. On a side note, I cleaned the saw up, mixed some fresh gas (about 47:1) and filled the oil tank with Tractor Supply house brand bar oil and the saw ran good. I looked at the spark plug and it was gray not tan that I am used to on four strokes. The big thing is it was a Champion CJ14. The internet shows a RCJ6Y? as the Champion plug that crosses to the NGK BPMR7A. Needless to say that got changed out last night for the NGK. Still on the learning curve of starting the saw. Sometimes it starts right away, but I haven't got a set procedure on starting. Any advice or help? I think I am going to like this saw, IF I can figure out what it wants me to do. Kinda like dealing with women. Treat her nice and she'll do most anything for ya. If not, you get all sorts of problems.😂 Thanks Steve
  2. The editor posted the pictures but not the text. This is the saw that I just bought at the local pawn store. Stihl 028AV super with 20" bar, 250 plus tax and it runs and cuts pretty well. The running joke is that I run my saw less time than most of you guys spend filing the saw. I bought this to replace a hard starting Craftsman saw that probably isn't worth fixing. It will sit in the garage for months at a time, but I hope it will start each time by the 5th pull I am not sure what fuel/oil ratio is because i can't find any labels on the saw. My brother and a buddy that clears trees on the powerline run theirs 50:1. Would I be OK with that or would a little more oil be better? I plan to run 30wt oil for bar oil. The 20" bar is fine, but I am curious what the biggest bar is that this saw will handle well. If I run across a deal on a longer bar I would buy it if it would work. Thanks for any help or insights. Steve
  3. No, it's a 91 TRX 200D. Petcock on the right side and the line exits to the left as you face it. Steve
  4. Now that the quad is back to working, (THANK YOU ALL for your help!) I looked at the spare fuel tank that I got with the quad and decided to play around with a redneck spraybomb custom paint job. All was going fine until I discovered that the petcock was broken. It seems that this quad has the only petcock that exits on the left as opposed to the right side. Being left handed I am used to the world being backwards, but did I buy the ONLY left handed bike on the planet? Replacements if available cost 50+ new and 30+ used, while everything else uses 10 to 20 dollar (Right hand) petcocks. Any brilliant ideas or am I stuck shelling out the big bucks or swapping the petcock whenever I want to swap tanks? Steve
  5. Fish: If you are in Louisiana, there must be some Cajun speaking people nearby. Isn't Cajun a French Canadian that moved to a warmer climate? Kinda like trading blizzards for hurricanes? Steve
  6. It worked! The plug held and the gasket that I re-used sealed just fine. I spent yesterday running it around after I replaced the chain and sprockets and had NO drips under the quad. Then I spent my spare time trying to clean up the oil stains that developed everywhere I had been parking it. I owe Wilson and Fish an apology. You two nailed it when you said it was a broken case. I just couldn't see it until I pulled the cover. Thanks again! Steve
  7. I don't drink alcohol at all. That's why I specified a case of "cold ones". Could be soda, iced tea or even ice cream bars! 😁
  8. I'm betting the first tank of fuel will be more than the case of cold ones that he will charge for *labor*!!😯
  9. I filed the surface with some fine jeweler files that i had laying around to give it the flattest/smoothest finish I could. This is the easy way to work on the fix. I might put it like this to put the new chain and sprockets on as well. I am going to assemble the cover after breakfast and leave the whole thing alone until tomorrow morning. The waiting will be the hardest part. Steve
  10. I don't know how the last picture got in there. Just ignore it. A side note- the editor and I have a hard time communicating. When I want it to do something it doesn't want to, but it will randomly add its own input. Removing the stuff is ! near impossible. Steve
  11. First picture is the hole cleaned and ready for the plug. Note the plug sitting on the left. Next is the plug test fitted in the case. Last is the plug glued in with Hi-Temp RTV sealant. Now it is just waiting at least 24 hours to give the stuff time to set up as best as it can. Then re-assembly and hope this holds. The good side is that I have the time to do it better. The first attempt was a rush to get it done for the races.
  12. The JB Weld fix didn't work. It made the trip to the mailbox and left a trail of oil back to the house. JB Weld may work as a bonding agent or crack filler, but is no good as filler material. Plan B is to make a plug out of Quick Steel and glue it in with Hi-Temp RTV sealant. I think this may work, as I have all week to do the job instead of 2 days before the races. Also I took the tank and seat off the quad so I could lay it on its side. Easier to work on and gravity is my friend. Plan C is swapping the case half out. Don't really want to go this route, but may have no choice. I did find a complete crankcase on E-Bay for 45 bucks from a 91 TRX 200. If it comes to splitting the motor, I will probably be asking for help and insights, as I have never opened up a motorcycle engine before. I will update Thursday maybe with pictures. Steve
  13. I am researching the last resort option of replacing the left crankcase half. The items I find on E-Bay are all mid-late80s engines. What is compatible to the 91 TRX200 engine?
  14. I am hoping it lasts at least tonight. We use it in the pits at the racetrack. If so, I can look for parts or try ?Minutemend. I shaved it down as close as I could and put some Hi-Temp RTV sealant on there to fill in what I could. Also layed a bead on the outside of the seam. Now it's just wait for things to set and if it holds running to get the mail, I will load it up and off to the races. I am not sure that I would have the confidence to split the case and replace the broken half. If it comes to it, I have a friend who TIGs aluminum and he could probably build it up enough for me to dremel the case back into shape. Wish me luck Steve
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