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  1. I see. Mine measures out less than 3/8'' going to change it out. I'm hoping that will clear up the sound. Dennis Kirk has one - https://www.denniskirk.com/did/cam-chain.p119274102.prd/119274114.sku. Any tips for replacing it? I've done the right cover twice before and I think I've learned the important lessons the hard way.
  2. Looks like about 1/4 in gap when the tensioner is fully extended and forced toward the cam chain. When its wound up it springs right back. I took a recording of the sound going to try to find a way to share it easily. Pretty distinct from the engine hum.
  3. Hey @Goober I've been going through the service manual looking at the maintenance schedule. I think brake fluid and diff oil are on the top of the list. At the moment I'm still stuck on the tapping sound coming from the engine. The cam chain tensioner looks good - shoots back out when I wind it up. I did a valve adjustment (and decompression cable free play) because the sound seems localized to the valve cover area (I bought an automotive stethoscope). It didn't seem to change so I adjusted them several times to see if I was just getting it wrong. Then I decided to change the valve adjustment screws - they came yesterday and I switched them out. The sound seems to be a bit louder. Its kind a higher pitched tapping, quite clear when the engine is revving down after I hit the throttle, and only noticeable after the engine warms up. The tippet screws I took out of the rockers have a clear X pattern on them. Any thoughts? I've read a bunch of threads on this but nothing seems to stick. Its really not an alarmingly loud sound, you have to pay careful attention to even notice it, but my paranoid brain picks it up and I want to take care now to prevent big problems later.
  4. Well I found a matched flywheel and stator, new reduction gear, new starter, and finished the reassembly last night! I decided to start with the kickstarter and it fired right up as expected and no strange noises. Then I shut it off and hit the electric start - fired right back up! Looks like it is charging well 14.4 V when running. Hopefully that clears up all the left crankcase issues! I did notice that it was idleing fast after it warmed up - saw a bunch of threads about this and going to try a few things. Really appreciate all the help from the dedicated enthusiasts here!
  5. Everything checks out with the alignment of the timing marks, magnet placement etc. The replacement has 4 dimples where the original does not...
  6. Found this section in the user manual (hiding in Ch. 20) thanks for pointing out the difference @Goober @shadetree. The replacement flywheel arrived today - complete with a one-way clutch and drive gear (seller claimed it was off an 86' TRX350). The original and replacement have slightly different numbers on the wheel: original: 032000-4510 10EY ND JAPAN replacement: 032000-4510 7EY ND JAPAN Any thoughts on the EY part?
  7. Uh oh. Thanks @shadetree. I bought the used flywheel and stator based off part # stator: 31120HA7-671 flywheel: 31110-HA7-751 Not sure I understand what a DC current model means. AC is produced from the motion of the stator which gets rectified and regulated. Is that correct for the 86’ also?
  8. Thanks @Goober I'm keeping it original. I should have the holder and puller this evening and I'll take a closer look. The idler gears look great, along with the 18T side of the reduction gear and the 70T drive gear. Maybe someone was giving it lots of throttle while cranking the electric start? I'd hate to put all these good parts in and have it happen again.
  9. So my 86' has the cover in the upper picture (circled in yellow) without the bearing (#32). I'm curious if it would accept the setup from 87' with the bearing all the other parts look the same. Good suggestion @Goober
  10. I see. I will need a new starter also the teeth on that are damaged. The 43/18 reduction gear is still available, and I found a junker for the flywheel and stator. Still not sure why all this happened, or why the one-way clutch seems intact. Maybe I'll know more when I pull the flywheel.
  11. Thank you. I was reluctant to hop right into buying parts for the reasons you mentioned. It looks like my first reduction gear is 43 / 18. Funny enough, only the out 43 side is damaged. The inner 18 look fine, along with the other gears on the spindle all the way down to the main drive gear.
  12. Indeed a mess. I didn't try the electric start but I did verify that the starter worked when it was pulled off. I didn't touch any gears. The previous owner said the e-start stopped working a long time ago and he just used the kickstarter. I assumed it was a bad starter or a wire or something - poor assumption on my part. It turns over fine with the stator out, both by rotating the flywheel bolt and with the kickstarter.
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