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hawk

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  1. I'm cracking up. slide one down the bar to me please.
  2. copy. thanks. That helps to explain the difference.
  3. Thank you! I was worried. I watched one Youtube video where a guy said different. But, normally when there is left-handed thread involved the service manual highlights it. And, I found nothing in the service manual. Plus, I plan to remove it with my impact.. My impact will definitely remove it one way or the other. I just wanted it to be in a good way. 🙂 thanks again. much appreciated.
  4. 2002 Rancher 350 ES. Removing the centrifugal (weighted) clutch. Is the big nut left or right-hand threaded? thanks in advance
  5. Dumb question. Please confirm the following regarding the main center hold-down nut. Centrifugal clutch (one-way) - Left hand threads? Friction plate clutch (clutch discs & pressure plate) - right hand threads?
  6. Thanks for the talk on this. I really appreciate it. I've taken a little break while I wait for a few seals to come in. But I will check the drum and shoes more closely. The reason I took it out was to replace the ES gear switch and the clutch adjustment screw was seized in the case. The clutch never slipped, but I couldn't adjust it. I haven't had it that long, but the motor and trans were shifting well. I was trouble-shooting the ES and determined at least one problem was the gear position switch. To test the transmission I installed a "Momentary-on / off / Monetary-on" 30amp/12V toggle on the handlebars that has a cross-over wired in to allow reverse polarity between the up position and the down position. Basically, I unplugged the motor and connected the toggle switch and drove it all over shifting it up and down with the toggle. It rode great. So I was feeling pretty confident about big moving parts... 🙂
  7. 2002 Rancher 350 ES (TRX350EF) Front case removed. Looking at the centrifugal clutch I see bluing due to heat. Is this much blue normal or is this due to an overheat condition? The clutch hasn't been slipping at all, but I have only put about 5hrs of run time on it since I purchased it. Any opinions or experience from anyone else? Is this a sign of a bad clutch? .
  8. I've the motor out on a recently purchased 2002 Rancher 350 (TRX350EF) to replace the gear switch on the rear cover and the clutch adjustment bolt on the front cover. While the motor is on the bench I'd like to replace a few oil seals. The one I'm having trouble with is the rear output shaft seal. I'm using Partzilla and looking at their diagrams. I found the part number for the front output shaft seal. Looking for the rear seal, I'm using the diagram for "rear crankcase cover." I do see the flywheel seal in the rear case and I'm ordering that as well. But, I can't find a part number for the rear seal. Is it on a different diagram or not available? Also, any chance the front and rear output shaft seals are the same and I can just order two of the front seals? I won't yank them out until I have the new ones in hand. The engine otherwise runs fine. Anything I should do while I have the front and rear case covers off? I don't intend to split the main case open or remove the head. I can do that in the future if need be. It only took me about 2-3 hrs to put the motor on the bench and that was an old guy working slow, pausing to drink, and turning the music up. 🙂 Also, I'd like an opinion on the heat-generated discoloration (blue color) on outside of the centrifugal clutch housing. Perhaps this is normal? Please see photo if it attaches.... Many thanks in advance.
  9. Actually, last week I wandered around there looking at different materials and found some osuedo rubber/plastic edging used in base-boarding that is thin and about 4 inches wide. When the Texas freeze abates i will attempt modifying this to work.
  10. OMG, Bingo. Thank YOU so much! That makes a ton of sense. I will check that tomorrow. Just awesome. I can sleep now.
  11. Long story--short version. I trouble-shooted my ES shifting problem on my recently obtained 2002 Rancher 350 ES to the angle sensor. Following the testing procedures in the service manual the angle sensor failed the resistance check while manually rotating the sensor shaft. I performed the test according to the manual between the terminals for the blue/green contact and the yellow/blue contact. I ordered a new OEM part. The OEM part arrived. I checked it...got nothing when rotating it on any meter setting. Just a big fat "1." I sent it back as broken. Meanwhile using a lot of electrical spray cleaner and compressed air, I managed to get the old sensor working. It had good OHM readings so I re-installed it. The Honda now shifts great, but I'm not for certain how long my cleaning will hold up. So, I wanted to still replace it since I've confirmed the problem. This time I ordered two sensors because I was feeling loony. Both from Amazon. One was OEM (again), and the other aftermarket. This way I had a range of sensors to compare. I pulled both out of the box to test and got even crazier results. The new (again) Honda sensor will not show a change in resistance no matter how I rotate the shaft. It begins to read on the 200K ohm scale at 91.3K ohms. No change rotated in either direction, plus there is no "stop." It continues to spin in either direction. The was the same as the other Honda sensor I had already returned. The aftermarket sensor was completely different. I testing the aftermarket sensor using the 200K ohm scale. There is a "stop" on the shaft. Beginning at one "stop" the meter reads 0.2K ohms and it does increase as the shaft is rotated counter-clockwise all the way to 5.4K ohms. Did I get a second bad Honda sensor from a different vendor? Is that possible? So, my second OEM angle sensor is....bad? And it has no "stop." The stop may not be necessary as it will only go as far as the shaft turns it, but it is weird. Hopefully, I'm just making a stupid mistake and am getting too old to see it. Finally, I did not install either of the new sensors yet for an operational test. I'm still running on the old "cleaned" one that works. I realize that installing both of the new sensors may shed more light on my testing prowess if both work, but my back yells at me for needlessly bending over when I don't need to. I would like to hear some stories from those of you who have tested old sensors against new sensors. thanks for reading
  12. My apologies if this is the wrong category to place this. It seemed the closest match to discuss plastics and related parts. I need rear splash guards on the left and right for my 2002 Rancher. New ones are available from PartZilla, but they cost $68 for each side. Is there a suitable home-grown substitute that works well and doesn't look stupid? thank you
  13. Oddly, after ordering the new sensors I went back outside to look at the old broken one. I sprayed electrical cleaner in the tiny hole while twisting it aggressively back and forth from stop to stop. I blew it clear with compressed air. I checked and it acted about 85% normal. I did this about three more times and the readings were normal for a good sensor. I put it back in the Honda and it shifted like a new one...go figure...
  14. Understood, thanks. I kept watch on it. It holds solid charge, Stator charges well too. I pulled the sensor today while waiting for parts on my son's car. The sensor ohm readings didn't even move this time until near the stop when it jump a little. Definitely not smooth. Bad sensor for certain. Oddly though. I opened the Honda bag to put the new sensor on it. Tested it for comparison and got.....wait for it...nothing. ??? I'm reasonably qualified to handle this as I've been wrenching for 30 years. The Honda sensor doesn't have a "stop" rotating in either direction like the bad sensor I took off. No matter what scale I'm on there is never a reading besides "full resistance" or "1" Yes, I even checked each pair to be sure my old eyes were wrong. I went to three multimeters I have. I double-checked it and triple checked it. Then, ordered a cheap Amazon sensor 10min ago. I'll call Partzilla in the morning to have them send out another Honda part.
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