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leolufse

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Posts posted by leolufse

  2. Posted

    On 4/12/2021 at 7:18 PM, THH said:

    There is one on e-bay, pricey though.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-HONDA-RANCHER-350-ES-2WD-BREATHER-TUBE-SNORKEL-AIR-DUCT/124482935920?hash=item1cfbc2dc70:g:rIIAAOSwPKlf09yX

    Partszilla shows one available in 4-6 days with a reasonable price.

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/17250-HN5-N00?ref=ed64cb68eb4069b6590cc4ef950a5dd43da55e52

    Yup, the first one is too much $$ and is for a 2004 model.  I tried to order from Partzilla, the part is NLA even tho it says 4-6 days.  😞 

     

  4. Posted

    FWIW, I figured this out.  It was simply the main 30 amp fuse was good, but had corrosion on the terminals.  So things were not getting full power and acting weird.  After I cleaned, the fan, temp light, and the N and R lights working as expected.  Most importantly I have spark now as well.  Hopefully this will help someone.  The electronics in these guys are very sensitive to corrosion.  

     

    • Like 2

  6. Posted

    20 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

    You have an electrical issue for sure. 

     

    My kid's former 350ES that is now a footshift does blink an error code on the gear indicator, but other than that everything works as it should. 

     

    @Melatv and @retro are the resident electrical gremlin finders.  Perhaps they can tell you where to look first.

     

    I will say that I have discovered that if your ECU cannot tell what gear your machine is in, you will not get spark, so once you figure out the issue, the others will likely be resolved as well.

     

    First thing I think I'd be doing is making sure all of your grounds are clean and correctly installed.  Should be two on the back of the engine, and one on the right side of the frame.

    Update here. 

    All grounds are good, as well as all fuses and such.  Battery is strong, and ignition, engine stop, meter switches and wiring all good.

    The CDI box failed the tests as outlined in the FSM.  I believe this is the the reason for the oil light issue.  During that testing, I also discovered my fan motor is no good. 
    From a display perspective, when I unplug the shift control computer completely, the N and R and gear indicator all work as designed.  I suspect that guy is no good. But it seems the N safety and gear selector switch are fine.    

    Hopefully the CDI box replacement will fix the no spark issue. 

     

    • Like 1

  7. Posted

    Hey everybody.  I'm bringing back an 03 rancher ES back from the dead.  I've properly converted the eshift to manual when I had the motor apart for top end rebuild.  I also changed all the clutches.  So mechanically I'm ready to rock and roll.  But now that I have the harness installed and hooked up, I have several issues:

     

    1. No spark.  New plug, but I have not replaced anything else.   I plan to so some testing on the various components (pulse generator, coil, cdi box, etc).  

    2. Oil Temp light blinks.  It comes on with the ignition key and simply blinks on/off, on/off.  

    3. N and R lights stay lit in every gear.  In actual R, the red light is bright, in other gears it is dim, but still on.  Same with N light.  in actual neutral the light is bright green, but is dim but lit in other gears.

    4. Possibly related to 3.  The gear shift on the display sort of works.  I can get an R and an N and sometimes a 1, but usually I get a --- .  I'm hoping when the motor is running this will be back to normal.

     

    For 3 and 4 I'll do the tests on the switches as defined in the manual.  But I'm pretty stumped on the blinking oil light.  Any thoughts there? 

    Thanks in advance for any help.  

    Before and current pic for fun:  

     

    167319599_10220734010474964_2913060334224305607_n.jpg

    159010739_10220613262376337_2036062598572044407_n.jpg

    148919528_10220446377644323_479229639459584163_n.jpg

    143844433_10220367684637047_8660172173626742370_n.jpg

  8. Posted · Edited by leolufse

    6 hours ago, retro said:

    The reverse lockout cannot prevent you from engaging 1st gear. If 1st gear has a problem engaging it may have a bent fork. What makes you think it is bad? Were you having transmission troubles before the motor was taken apart?

    You're right.  I was convinced there was a problem and there really wasn't  When I picked this up the PO said it was "stuck in gear".  During bench testing, I was expecting the shift pattern to be 1 down, 4 up.  Like on a motorcycle.  Turns out this thing shifts flawlessly as designed.  Thanks you for the quick and helpful replies!  

     

    • Like 1

  10. Posted

    4 minutes ago, retro said:

    As long as you rotate one of the transmission shafts while shifting you should be able to engage every gear except reverse. Reverse requires that you pull on the reverse lockout lever (located on lower part of the rear cover) while shifting down to engage that one.

    Yes sir. Every gear including reverse will click into place with ease. If I just rotate the driveshaft a touch.  When I attempt first, no amount of pressure on the pedal with rotating the motor or driveshaft will get it to click into place. It goes about 1/2 way.  In the photo I’ve pulled all the client and linkage out of the way. And using a ratchet on the gearshift drum. It just won’t go into the next notch. 

    image.jpg

  11. Posted

    Hi guys. I’m bench testing the shifting/trans on an 03 rancher 350. I’m able to get it to shift into every gear, including reverse. But it will NOT go into first. I’m baffled. Does the engine need to be running for first only?  
    I see zero evidence of bent or broken parts of any sort. Please help!  Thanks. 
     

    image.jpg

  12. Posted

    1 minute ago, jeepwm69 said:

    Looking at the pics, it doesn't appear that the 00-01 bumper has the headlight bucket supports welded in place, so that would be the difference.  I'd opt to spend the extra money for the one with the headlight support brackets were it me.

    That's the info i needed. Thanks!!

    I have part of the original rack I can use to modify this one.  Although the 2002- 2003 rack appears to be available, is it on a 200-210 day delay from Honda.  I inquired at another seller and they verified.  

     

    • Like 1

  13. Posted

    Hi everyone.  I'm restoring a 2003 rancher 350 es 4x4.  I'm in need of the front brush guard.  The OEM is NLA from honda for this model year.  But the 2000-2002 IS available.  Can someone tell me what make its different.  I can fab and weld if necessary to make it work.  Thanks in advance.  

  14. Posted

    23 minutes ago, AKATV said:

    You will have to open up the speedometer and remove the circuit card with the LCD display assembly and ship that to me and I can get it repaired

    I can help you if you need any further instruction doing that 

    I sent you my contact information as well so you can could shoot me a text if that’s easier

    Just the board like this?  

    image.jpg

  17. Posted

    Hi all.  I have not been on an actual forum in years.  Happy to have found this place.  I have a 2003 Rancher 350 ES 4x4 that I got as a rough project.  Have some electrical questions related to the display.  For some reason the 2003 4x4 meter has been discontinued.  Anyway.  Thanks for having me.  

  18. Posted

    I would have sent a message, but I need to post first before I'm allowed. 

     

    @AKATV, I have heard good things about your work.  Maybe you can help?  I have an 03 rancher 350 ES 4x4.  The display all appears to work, but faded out in the middle towards the bottom.  I can't really read the hours and miles.    

     

    I wanted to just purchase a new one, but they are NLA from Honda.  Part # 37200-HN5-M11  

     

    I attempted to just use a display from a non ES model, but the plug is different.  Part # 37200-HN5-671

     

    I do see a "meter sub harness" for the non ES meter Part # 32300-HN5-671, but I'm not sure what that does.  

     

    Could I just use a whole wire harness from a non ES?  

     

    Thanks for any help you can provide!!

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