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jeepwm69

No spark, 2013 500 Foreman ES (now not fixed again)

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19 minutes ago, retro said:

Yeah it sounds like the coil windings are shorted. The manual does not list resistance specs for the coil so the only way to know for sure is plug another coil in.


Honda lists the 2012-2013 coils as only fitting those models.  I’ll have to see if the woman wants to drop $60-70 on a new one or $35 on a used one. 
 

PSN doesn’t show one in stock.  If I determine that was the problem hopefully they’ll refund me for this one.  I’ve had it for several weeks.

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While searching for a coil, I came across an aftermarket listing that showed fitment to be 2012-2013 Foreman, AND 14-up 420 Ranchers.   I compared it to a 420 coil on my buddy's kid's Rancher, and the connections are the same, so I tried it.  Same results (no spark), except this one doesn't get warm when cranking. 

 

I still get a voltage drop in the coil wires when I hook up the coil, but show 1 volt more with the wires NOT hooked up to the coil.   (Full battery voltage at Blk/Red wire if I have it off the coil, and 11.XX volts if I hook the coil up).

 

 

 

 

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Hi @jeepwm69 unplug the ign. switch and put a jumper between the Red & Black wire on the harness side -- check voltage on ign. coil.

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On 3/7/2024 at 11:58 AM, Melatv said:

Hi @jeepwm69 unplug the ign. switch and put a jumper between the Red & Black wire on the harness side -- check voltage on ign. coil.


Hey @Melatv!

 

There are two red wires, a black wire, and a pink wire. Wasn’t sure which to jump so I just hooked up two different extra ignition switches I had in the shop and neither made a difference.

 

I also unplugged the fuel injection relay and it also made no difference in voltage to the coil with key on.

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So with the coil plugged in and the Gray ECM connector unplugged there is still a voltage drop measured at the coil Bl/R terminal?

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1 hour ago, retro said:

So with the coil plugged in and the Gray ECM connector unplugged there is still a voltage drop measured at the coil Bl/R terminal?

 

Well let me unplug that grey connector after work and see what I get.   You know I'm a little scatterbrained LOL

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No voltage at all at the coil with the gray plug disconnected on the ECU.

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27 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Check the Ign fuse 

It’s good.  If I pull it I get full battery voltage on one lug.  When I put it back i get about a one volt drop when I measure voltage at the fuse

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Take a wire and place it in along side the Bl/R of the ign coil to the positive of battery -- check for 12 volts on the unplugged gray connector Bl/R wire 

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38 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Take a wire and place it in along side the Bl/R of the ign coil to the positive of battery -- check for 12 volts on the unplugged gray connector Bl/R wire 


So do your jumper wire trick, but leave grey ECU plug off and measure backfed voltage at the plug?

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@Melatv with the jumper wire in place from battery positive to black\red coil wire, I got 12.71 V on the unplugged grey ECU plug.  Measuring voltage directly at the battery I got 12.74 V.


Obviously had been on a battery tender just prior to me taking those readings

 

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@jeepwm69 remove the jumper and measure the voltage on the ign. coil -- if it's low you may have a problem with the ign. fuse holder 

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2 minutes ago, Melatv said:

@jeepwm69 remove the jumper and measure the voltage on the ign. coil -- if it's low you may have a problem with the ign. fuse holder 

 

So to clarify, plug grey plug back into ECU, remove jumper, and measure voltage on blk/red coil wire?  

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10-4.  Will measure that again after work.

 

The fuse box terminals are clean with no corrosion of any kind, and no sign of melting.  That said, it obviously fried something when that spark plug wire melted to the exhaust.   When I picked the thing up, the ignition fuse was blown.   The only spare was a 30A, so I stuck that in place, turned the key on, and smoke started pouring out of the coil (which was still grounded to the exhaust at that point).  I turned the key off, and the 30A fuse did not blow during that series of events.

 

Since then, no spark with good ignition fuse.   Obviously something is fried, but finding WHAT is proving problematic.

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Check this -- unplug the ign. switch -- you said there were 2 red wires -- do this use the black wire on the harness side of the ign. switch and jumper it to one of the red wires on harness -- then check for 12 volts on the ign. coil  -- if no 12 volts jumper the black to other red and check coil again.

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9 hours ago, Melatv said:

@jeepwm69 remove the jumper and measure the voltage on the ign. coil -- if it's low you may have a problem with the ign. fuse holder 

10.94v at coil

 

12.28 at battery

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4 hours ago, Melatv said:

Check this -- unplug the ign. switch -- you said there were 2 red wires -- do this use the black wire on the harness side of the ign. switch and jumper it to one of the red wires on harness -- then check for 12 volts on the ign. coil  -- if no 12 volts jumper the black to other red and check coil again.

11.15 at coil with wires jumped

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Okay you are dropping the voltage someplace else -- I will check some other points for you

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Fuse spot shows no corrosion etc.

 

I’ve tried a different coil and a different coil with no change. 
 

From the test on the pick up coil I think that’s good.

 

Not sure where else to look other than the ECU, but hate to buy a $210 part if that’s not it

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Could you check the voltage on the BL/R wire on the fuel injector

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7 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Could you check the voltage on the BL/R wire on the fuel injector

11.53 with my voltmeter negative probe on the battery. 11.22 with the negative voltmeter lead on the green wire on the injector plug

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Okay will look for another spot

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