Snorkeling my kids 2006 honda rancher 350 fe

[M_goerler 13]

What all needs to be sealed with excel silicone and what all needs to have dialectic grease on it?

[shadetree 5,952]

32 minutes ago, M_goerler said:

What all needs to be sealed with excel silicone and what all needs to have dialectic grease on it?

rofl. little advice: it won't matter what, where, how you put any of that ?..because guess what ?..IT'S NOT A BOAT FOR ONE ?, AND SECOND, YOU WILL NEVER...EVER..MAKE THAT ENGINE 100% WATER PROOF !!!. but hey...go ahead..learn the hard way..lol.

[M_goerler 13]

Not trying to make it a boat but where we ride there is alot of deep mud holes so at some point it might go over the seat for a few seconds I see guys on other four wheelers submerge there past handle bars and are just fine

[shadetree 5,952]

14 hours ago, M_goerler said:

Not trying to make it a boat but where we ride there is alot of deep mud holes so at some point it might go over the seat for a few seconds I see guys on other four wheelers submerge there past handle bars and are just fine

maybe you do see those folks ?..but i bet you don't see them working on them all the time either ?!..lol.

[jeepwm69 7,689]

LOL.  Shade doesn't like water riding, because he's the one that always gets the trashed sunken engines to rebuild.

 

Dialectic grease every electrical connection on the bike.   You need to have two one way valves on the drain line on the carb, and extend the vent lines coming off of the side of the carb, as well as the vent lines for the front and rear diffs, and the vent lines for the brakes as well. 

 

Take the hose from airbox to crankcase (vent) and get about 3 feet of hose, and loop that hose around the carb area several times.  The idea being, if the airbox fills up with water, you want that water to have to travel upwards as much as possible so it doesn't flow straight into the crankcase.   Loops makes it harder for the water to get through the line into the engine.  That's where water gets into the engine most of the time.   Airbox fills up, and water goes straight through that vent line into the engine.

 

Put black RTV or silicone around the boot where the snorkel goes into the airbox.  

[M_goerler 13]

Thanks I take crank case hose out with the snorkel do I have to sealicone the connections where the wire goes in too mine arnt that tight since there old four wheelers

[shadetree 5,952]

1 hour ago, jeepwm69 said:

LOL.  Shade doesn't like water riding, because he's the one that always gets the trashed sunken engines to rebuild.

 

Dialectic grease every electrical connection on the bike.   You need to have two one way valves on the drain line on the carb, and extend the vent lines coming off of the side of the carb, as well as the vent lines for the front and rear diffs, and the vent lines for the brakes as well. 

 

Take the hose from airbox to crankcase (vent) and get about 3 feet of hose, and loop that hose around the carb area several times.  The idea being, if the airbox fills up with water, you want that water to have to travel upwards as much as possible so it doesn't flow straight into the crankcase.   Loops makes it harder for the water to get through the line into the engine.  That's where water gets into the engine most of the time.   Airbox fills up, and water goes straight through that vent line into the engine.

 

Put black RTV or silicone around the boot where the snorkel goes into the airbox.  

''  Shade doesn't like water riding, because he's the one that always gets the trashed sunken engines to rebuild.''

you are somewhat right ^^ ?, but the main reason i said what i said..is you will never , EVER..MAKE AN ATV ENGINE 100% WATER PROOF !..I don't care what all tube, lines, sealant you put in, around, on it ?..water WILL find a way inside the engine !. , mark these words for future post from here asking how, why water got into my engine, now that its smoking, and won't run ?..lol.

[M_goerler 13]

Well I do know how to work on them some things I don't know but I can rebuild them no problem and I know you got to check oil often if you go in deep water and if it turns like milk don't run in until you change oil

[shadetree 5,952]

19 minutes ago, M_goerler said:

Well I do know how to work on them some things I don't know but I can rebuild them no problem and I know you got to check oil often if you go in deep water and if it turns like milk don't run in until you change oil

you can change the oil a million times if you want ?. but..its not the water in the oil that you should worry about ? ( it is..and it isn't )..its the fine sand, grit in other words, that you should worry about !. you will not see this with the naked eye !!!, once this gets inside the engine, its going to eat your rings, your cylinder wall, and a lot of other metal parts. but hey, i've only torn down a few thousand engines...30 plus yrs doing this..i have no idea what i'm talking about../s. you go for it..more power to ya..least we know who around here has deep pockets huh ?..lol.

[jeepwm69 7,689]

17 hours ago, M_goerler said:

Well I do know how to work on them some things I don't know but I can rebuild them no problem and I know you got to check oil often if you go in deep water and if it turns like milk don't run in until you change oil

 

17 hours ago, shadetree said:

you can change the oil a million times if you want ?. but..its not the water in the oil that you should worry about ? ( it is..and it isn't )..its the fine sand, grit in other words, that you should worry about !. you will not see this with the naked eye !!!, once this gets inside the engine, its going to eat your rings, your cylinder wall, and a lot of other metal parts. but hey, i've only torn down a few thousand engines...30 plus yrs doing this..i have no idea what i'm talking about../s. you go for it..more power to ya..least we know who around here has deep pockets huh ?..lol.

 

Shade is right on this one.   It's not the water that does the damage, it's the crap/sediment in the water that screws you up.   Depending on where you sink it, you might get by with a flush, or you might ruin your engine.

 

I've sunk one of my Foremans here in Mississippi River bottoms where the mud is gumbo, which is a slick clayish mud, and I changed the oil 3-4 times and noticed no ill effects.   That said, I had an extra engine ready to go into that bike, so I took a chance on it.

 

I've sunk a Foreman in South Arkansas where they have that red dirt that is more of a sandy clay, and not only did it eat two top ends, but also my crank.   After it started smoking I pulled the top end, AND the front and rear covers of the engine, and hosed it out as best I could from top and either end, then reinstalled front and rear covers and new top end.  Didn't last 500 miles before it was smoking again.  Pulled the engine and tore it all the way down and the connecting rod and new top end were ruined, and I found grit all up in the nicks and crannies of the inner crankcases.

 

So, if you sink one, the cheap, but not easy way out is to not crank the engine after sinking, immediately take it hope, and completely disassemble the engine and clean it till you can eat out of it.  That means splitting cases and cleaning EVERYTHING out, then reassemble.

The easy way out that usually doesn't end up being cheap, is to flush the engine with diesel or multiple oil changes, and then cross your fingers and hope that the water in your engine didn't have a lot of grit in it.   If you aren't lucky, plan on doing that full engine tear down mentioned in the "cheap but not easy" method, along with paying for a new top end and probably a crank rebuild.

 

You also make sure you don't try to crank it with water in the cylinder, even if your oil stays clean.  Instant bent/ ruined connecting rod.

[M_goerler 13]

Rode it this weekend no problems thanks for the help