Mach 1

I set meter on 20K BLK TO BOOT- 18.80 GREEN TO BOOT - 18.80 BOOT TO GRD - 0

Ok, I did measurement without boot, probe straight into wire end.

I posted mine this morning on a new oem coil

A holes gouge us

A holes take advantage of our misery

I have checked ALL wiring, even though no spark, obvious coil getting power since it gets hot, intial issue of 10 A ignition fuse blowing is fixed..gonna bite the bullet and order PCM, unless I am the unluckiest B that got a bad coil lol, if after ALL that, if not fixed, anyone make a REASONABLE offer for a as new, 420TEA and I will just say F it and buy a new one, been going on WAY TO LONG :(

Tried running a jumper from + battery to blk side coil...nothing. Wow, even a used PCM is pricey, especially to troubleshoot.

I can't find ANY shop to look at it..I am lost..just wonder chance I got a bad coil, PCM just to expensive to just "try", even asked around to see about trying a used one to try, maybe waste some more money and get a used one off ebay..I know coil getting power since it gets SO hot.

Is being bolted down something affecting spark? I'm missing one female clip on that hold down tray. Let me add no fuses blown, no codes on display, as soon as I turn on key coil heats up FAST @!

So hold up, on coil, has green and black tab, so green wire goes on black tab or green tab? Why the ! couldn't they just you red/black?? Think I have reversed them to troubleshoot but its gotten way upon overwhelming, ready to just buy new machine, my wife miss going for rides 😞

I've even ran a jumper wire from positive side of battery to positive side of coil if coil has connections to do this and bypass everything to diagnose. Any thoughts on doing this?? Is "green" wire on coil "positive"?

Dang that sucks..I'm at 14 years old, just hit 3000 dirt road no mud miles..I tried disconnecting positive side of coil only, fuse didn't blow, all wires look pristine, good ground,verified kill switch working correctly, wondering if ecu or pulse generator..whats throwing me off is how hot the coil gets fairly quickly. Amazed no fuse blowing anymore but still an issue. Hope you can figure out your issue as well.

Update: I hooked up all components and battery, hit ignition and no blown fuses but would not crank( fuel pump did energize). I have no spark with new coil, I peeled back small amount insulation and threaded on boot..no spark and after about 20 seconds coil got HOT, couldn't even touch metal post so hot..coil wire and 2 wires to coil normal temp..just coil itself with no spark, though even while cranking fuse didn't blow, guessing coil getting that hot not normal so removed and disconnected battery again..thoughts???

I got all parts in..was wondering, since I had so many Chinese junk parts, before tearing apart front end for ignition switch, thoughts on hooking up all new parts , connect battery and QUICKLY seeing what I got.

Welcome Red !!

Ok, parts ordered

Ok, I never did get relay/coil, will order now..are they necessary for test or should I just tear down front and wait till parts arrive?

Yea, I had lights, no display. Will do ignition switch, for continuity on this one its lead to wire, no one lead on ground correct? Coil and relay in trash, battery is disconnected along with PCM..thanks for reply.

Ok, had to redo first test since I had negative battery cable connected, disconnected so BOTH not on battery, now I have no continuity on the relay harness connector, weird, had continuity with just positive battery off, now with both off, no continuity!!

Ok, started at 1st test in thread... Continuity from battery to black/green terminal inside engine stop relay connector, have continuity. In resistance mode with range on 2000, black/green terminal tested at 1061 ohms. Next, at disconnected PCM/ECM harness, black 5 pin connector, (not sure if correct connector..), my wire, instead of Black /Red is Red with black dashes, and a Red/White so I tested Red/Black.. No contuinty, then with multimeter in resistance, 0 ohms on same connector. Ground bolt satisfactory. Stopped here to give these results before moving on, positive battery terminal disconnected for all test. Awaiting next move, sorry so late, life got in the way .

Dang Retro, your brain red/white wire is providing excess voltage to your typing finger lol, GREAT write up/explanation!!

Update, bad storm here in DE GA so been cleaning, last day hunting season Saturday so will have time to get at it hard, take care guys and thanks!!

Hey guys, will be back in town tomorrow..yea, mine is a one off..had key off, came in, later found coil melted, and a first dash worked..battery never drained, no dash but headlights worked, another weird thing was ignition fuse would blow, put new relay, no blow, hook up coil, fuse blows, check rectifier, no blow, then with all hooked up, no blown fuse, but coil melted..just a nightmare, gonna get on it tomorrow.

True, but for testing on connector, that relay holds stop relay..in my Stang Mach 1, there is a CCRM that contains 4 relays for fans and fuel pump, got a feeling that relay is a dual purpose stop/fuel pump..will investigate tomorrow.