Mach 1

Looks like the Mad Dog more suitable for composite rack, the metal rack looks like would be uncomfortable for a passenger but I have been know to be wrong.

Oh great lol, I plan on using more than 4 u bolts, figured gonna add 2 more at back of rack that has that bar right above tailight in the back, and add where I can, don't think 4 bolts spaced out gonna cut it, you lucky you sold it knowing issues, only idiots like me would buy it .

Yea I had thought of that, flat as heck here, mudholes...yes, hills, no, strictly for wife and I cruise on dirt roads here in the boonies lol, take care guys, maybe catch ya on a chat one night.

Nice touch was reflectors on back.

Hey Wilson, here's some pics...mounting is you place where you want it on rack, from bottom mark locations on underside and then you drill holes for a mount metal mount bracket to mount on seat, then u bolts from inside bins to your rack, looks like a little weather stripping can seal boxes ( lockable ), or I figured drill drain hole with a cork if not worried about a waterproof storage.

I picked this up from Bass Pro shop, had $118 in club points so got it for $98 !! Any tips or pointers on mounting on a 2010 420?

Awesome, happy for you..yea, meltav helped me take the ECM plunge with the green coil wire to ground test, amazing to think NON OEM can wreck such havoc, here's to many trails and memories 😊

Very true, that maybe a warning sign, but first it would be ignition fuse blowing .Went for short ride...wow, like a new machine, idles sweet, plenty of power, so happy, showing 3,250 miles in 14 years..thanks again guys.

SUCCESS!!! I got in new OEM PCM today, along with OEM coil (x2), relay and idle air control valve, cranked right up and idled beautiful, coil stayed cool, no blown fuses. Thank you EVERYONE for your input and knowledge and motivating me not to give up..all back together so ride later after grass mowing..once again THANKS to you all who also put up with my whining lol...guess this thread is DONE..maybe it will help someone in the future, I know personally I learned ALOT about my machine.

👍

Yea I looked up there website and legit dealer, $291 with tax shipped free, thanks for input Meltav, makes sense that pcm should trigger pulse to coil based on CPS ( thinking new form of timing ), can see how computer could send continuous signal that quickly overheats coil and overwhelming heat sink mounting points. Just weird how intial issue was fuse, once fuse stop blowing part failure cascaded from there, this ECM is last component to replace with OEM..one last thing, is the CDI on our machines built into the PCM? I see early models CDI in front below handlebars? Also, when new PCM arrives, is it a plug and go or will it require some kind of weird reset procedure turning key and throttle, etc.???

I hope not, I did some digging and seller is a Honda place in Ohio, plus that part number exact match to one I removed, will update when it comes in.

Going to order this one..New, All numbers on unit match mine except for 6 digits after the 6901 that I'm not worried about since top row dead match, $292 with tax 😞

Ok thanks, guess the China parts caused an issue..guess will look for an ECM from somewhere.

So I tested green to ground with 33 pin disconnected..meter stayed at 0 in resistance/contuinty, so is that a good reading? Yea, think that is 18.50K .

Ok, got out my new meter and did coil readings, both OEM, one tested out the box, other coil was new and was used to crank with no spark and got hot quickly. Also, tested grn wire from coil to ground with gray connector unplugged from ECU...meter was at .0L, no change testing wire, not sure what it means ???

So glad you got it going, great dedication in tracking it down, congrats jeep!!!

Welcome friend..I was in Holy Loch from 1986 to 1989, quaint town of Dunoon in the Firth of Clyde on submarine, glad you found the site !!!

Thanks, retro said my meter is junk so I've got a new one coming he recommended, will check your measurements when I get it.

These figures above are a new oem coil AFTER I hooked up and had no spark, GRN to BLK was 2.3 ohms. These measurements on paper are a NEW OEM out the box before installing.

Thats fine..yea, this coil was from Rocky..just ordered 2nd coil from Rocky...daaaaannng price jump if you don't get free shipping, $72 for troubleshooting lol.

Oh, one more thing..isn't thats what fuses are for? I would think if I turn key, it would blow ignition fuse before it would allow coil to fry? Kinda like initial issue when I turn key would immediately blow fuse. Hard to wrap my head around now fuse good, but no spark?? Gonna order new coil, just leery of getting coil from same company may have gotten a bad one. Will update with new coil.

Thanks retro, heck, could have gotten a bad NEW coil since you would think brand new SHOULD give at least a spark BEFORE getting hot..guess I'm saying its not like it melted immediately, takes time to heat up so again, think I will try ANOTHER coil, but this time will measure BEFORE install and post, if both show same readings at least have a baseline for other members to know specs since would be quite the coincidence that 2 with same specs BOTH bad.

Thanks retro, heck, could have gotten a bad NEW coil since you would think brand new SHOULD give at least a spark BEFORE getting hot..guess I'm saying its not like it melted immediately, takes time to heat up so again, think I will try ANOTHER coil, but this time will measure BEFORE install and post, if both show same readings at least have a baseline for other members to know specs since would be quite the coincidence that 2 with same specs BOTH bad.

So not in spec? Some of it or the last readings I posted in thread of connectors to boot? Are ALL readings looking bad? In other words, with coil getting warm, could I have that QUICKLY burned out a NEW coil?