toodeep

Yep. they use arctic cat brake pads so the calipers should be the same (or close enough). Just do a search online and compare the picture to what you have. Most likely you'll find a set for around $30.

When your manually shifting it, when you push or pull the lever the internal spring should try to put the shaft back into the neutral state. With the shift reductions gears installed it will give drag on that, the reason I said to do it when they was out. If it "springs" back, that pin will be good. If it doesn't, you found a problem and time to tear into it.

I haven't tried them yet or read any reviews but you can get aftermarket seats for around $55. If your foam is in good shape and you have a good, heavy duty stapler you can get fitted covers for around $20-$30.

The followers (lifters) will show more wear (if any) than the camshaft. Are the head bolts tight, seem stripped, rounded heads. If your that far there should only be 4 bolts, 6mm thread with 8mm head for socket. If the heads are rounded it might be a pain to get them broke loose with the motor in the frame. 

If your in the states this should help but you'll have to fill in the blanks. 1HFTE359 *74000001 - 74099999 IS THE VIN matrix for the 2007 TRX420FM. The * is a check number so it can be anything and the 740 on is going to make your VIN unique.

Did you make sure the shift shaft will return by itself with the shift reduction gears removed? There is a stop pin inside the motor that can break and that will tell us if it has or not.

37 minutes ago, BIG ERT said:

Good morning everyone,

 

      So I used the manual tool to shift it and it does not shift. Now before I put the new valve on it shifted and drove. Really has me baffled. 

It is trying to shift but won't go into a gear (rocking the machine back and forth) or won't shift at all? If not at all I would start with removing the shift motor cover so you can watch the gears when trying to shift. If you get to that point you can also remove the gears and make sure the shift shaft to returns to the neutral position by its self (important that it does) when trying to shift it.

3 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Video above worked for me.   Looks like error code 4, which isn't in the FSM.  You have any ideas?

It cut off before it went through the check phase and then repeat the code (same or different). If it continually repeats the 4 flashes with no long pause (check) I have no idea and shifting it manually should bring up a code. It will be a worthless code (self inflicted) but a code. If it is stuck between gears (I've had it happen a few times) that might be all it takes to get it going again.

Does it have a long pause at the end with a -- and then the 4 flashes again? Have you shifted it manually to make sure it's in neutral and not stuck between 2 gears?

Cam was my first thought after the carb checked out. 140 is a high number since they have and auto decompression. A common thing is the bearing holder on the rear of the camshaft will go bad and letthe cam move around. That changes valve clearances and usally just makes it a dog when trying to ride it (1/2 throttle is all i has). Worn cam lobes will also do about the same. If you pull the very top cover off you can pull the lifters and see the cam (that will let you know if the lobes are wearing down). If those look good loosen the camchain adjuster and see if you can move the cam with a small screwdriver.

22 hours ago, sled_22 said:

Also, is there no atc section anymore? 

We never created a specific section for ATC. If there is a demand for that it can be done though.

The main part of the machine looks like a atc 185 or 200, the first part of the VIN would say for sure which one. Fuel tank is from a 1977 ATC90.

They (Honda) had an update on those CDI back in the day for this reason. Just replace it and you'll be good to go.

Sounds like the cam chain to me. You can move the adjuster and see if the rattle changes to confirm.

I guess i have only used OEM gaskets so that may be the issue.

I find this to be a weird problem, I have never had a problem. I just drop them in place and let the gasket hold them in position. I've done a lot of them over the years and that's why I find it to be a weird problem.

I've used them since that's what all the newer machines run.

Where it's a hit and miss issue I would put my money on the starter brushes getting worn down and barely making contact. If you can get it to mess up just see if you have voltage going in and out (while pressing the button) of the starter solenoid. If you have power, it's a starter problem.

Vent line. It takes a thin walled hose to sit in the cap enough to stay put. I think at regular part stores you can get windshield washer hose that does the trick.

10 hours ago, MaggieBlu said:

 Talked to a repair place to check prices on a new one and they want over 500  that is just stupid, Amazon has them for under 50 but the trouble with that is if it is the wrong one i have to play games getting it replaced. Now what?? 

 

$271 and some change from rocky mountain atv. I bet they looked it up for a Rubicon (FA) because they retail for around that $470. The starters are different for the Foreman.

If you want to go aftermarket I have had good luck with DB electrical starters ($65).

Most of the time the internal magnets break on these style of starters and you'll know that by just turning the shaft. It will be very hard to turn (will almost need pliers to turn it).

The fender and air box will flex enough to get one side out then then the other. You can take the fender loose from the floorboard and brace and it will let it flex out even more.

@jotifiI'll reply here so all information is in one place and questions aren't asked twice. Did you happen to check the oil level before you tore it apart? When the transmission doesn't have enough oil pressure it will make a grinding sound since the pistons can't hold solid pressure against the swash plates. Did you try it in both 2x4 and 4x4 (if not in 4x4 already)?

I've had great luck with ricks motorsports electronics CDI unit's, if you want an aftermarket. I personally use them and use them on other peoples machines.

I would clean up the wiring back in the battery box. If you have corrosion going on with one of the connectors (regulator, main fuse) it is going to mess with you. You can also take the original CDI (confirming there is no spark at the plug with it) and smack it against the bench. Most of the time that will make them work for a short while. There is also a baking process that can be done to try to make it work again.

Again though, if your wiring is a mess... fix it. Especially since your thinking electrical issues. The 300 is pretty simple and there isn't a lot of wiring so you might as well make sure it's 100%.

Shade has it, remove the air box and then it's just a couple bolts and a nut.

Interesting project. It looks like they are using 2 driveshafts between the motor and final drive? There looks to be many options to correct what is needed if you have the time and tools. The time and want would be if it's something you plan on keeping and using or just something to cruise a few times a year. If using as a yard machine (work) I would think about boxing the frame and sitting the motor back so it could hook back to the swingarm like it did in the 3 wheeler. That would make the drive line tougher, take care of motor mount issues plus give extra weight on the rear wheels for traction. Possibly the motor does sit back farther than it looks in the picture???

Do you have any pictures? There has to be a way to get the motor and swingarm sitting in there correctly. Being shaft drive they can take on a pretty good angle but sometimes the u joint needs ground a little for clearance. The case of the motor is the pick up for the oil pump so not much to modify there and messing with the crankcase vent I would think would just give you seal problems which would be a new oil loss issue. Once you start tearing the motor down you will know if it was ran low on oil or if it's just in a place to not get enough air flow to cool properly.