toodeep

I'm going to guess it will do this in 2x4 as well as 4x4 so we can rule out any drive line issues like a stripped axle. The way it sounds something messed up in the clutches and are holding the change clutch open/disengaged. I would remove the front engine cover and start inspecting, I bet you find the issue. If the machine is clean you can stand it up on it's rear rack to make it easier to work on (turning the fuel off of course).

Do you have the service manual? If not you can find a download on the menu bar of the forum. I would download it, print off the section for the clutches and read through it before taking it apart again. Highlight and mark the important pages to reference back to so all the parts are in the correct place. If anything is a question, take a picture and post it. In that primary gear there are thin bushings to inspect, the teeth on the gear including the count need to be inspected and so on. When dealing with someone else's "repair to sale" or learning on how to repair everything needs to be looked at. These are pretty simple machines.

If there are bolts that are stripped out when you have the cover off is the best time to address those. You can heli coil them, tap them to a 1/4 inch bolt or possibly just find a 6mm bolt a little longer to get to what good threads are still there.

The nut that holds the clutches (both of them) get staked into the hole in the crankshaft and main shaft. That's all that secures them besides being torqued. If that washer is gone, it was replaced with a bad clutch basket or primary gear you might get the whining noise that sounds like gears fighting each other.

You said you left out the shifter washer (should be one on the reverse lock lever also) because it was binding. You are using a gasket correct? If the previous left the gasket off and just used a sealant the spacing will be all wrong as it's designed to have that gasket spacing the cover out.

It has an L shaped inline filter and with some rerouting of the fuel lines you could use a straight filter if you wanted. It's pretty simple to change. You might have to take a fender bracket loose but besides fighting the old rubber holder it's as easy as it can get. 

Is the air filter and intake tube clean and free from any obstructions? If your still using the factory intake system mice like to build a nest on top of the fuel tank exactly where the factory air intake is.

You have a semi dry sump motor and that is why there is a process to checking the oil. You see it on the fill side because there is a shelf there that overflows into the motor. It probably won't take too much to show on the dipstick to get it to full and every time you change the oil it will take a different amount depending on how good it drains.

My brothers have a couple of drones to check crops but we found them to be useful to chase cattle out of the fields when they get out of the neighbors fence. I bought a cheap one with decent reviews just to play around with and after a few times using it, it went straight to the fire pit. If even the slightest breeze that thing was unreliable. My brothers aren't highest end but they are so much easier to control even in 20mph winds. My next one I'll be dropping a little more money on so it's not just wasted money. 

Sorry, I don't have any odd ball parts pictures to share and you probably don't want to see my cats. lol

I know you said it's getting spark but have you tried a different spark plug? You would be surprised on how many of them, that's all it takes this time of year.

We was always just a small mom and pop shop and had another dealer in a bigger town that did excellent work so they always bored stuff for us. The old guy that did it retired and the new ones was a hit and miss on a good job. Now, by the time I send something off to even a known good person the price and time takes away from profits so new cylinders have been my go to. I really don't do enough of them to chance finding someone new anyway. Over the years I did build up a collection of 680 cylinders though. Those 700 SXS would suck in dust when not maintained correctly and wipe them out.

When I had to redo my seat I believe I used the seat foam from 1st gen 350 rancher seat I had laying around. I'll have to look and see if I have any pictures. One of the aftermarket companies might offer a foam that is close enough without forming one to fit.

I have no idea on the piston. I got burned years ago on a bunch of bad bore jobs so everything I do is with new cylinders and pistons when they need it.

The times I had an oil pump chain fall off I was pushing snow or dropping into a creek and making the 4 wheeler come to an sudden stop. Yes it oil the whole system so if they had a case of the "I don't care" that sure could have been the cause of all the damage.

Yes, the foreman secondary is around that 7% reduction. It's not a lot but gives it that edge in certain situations.

I've only used the OEM chains so I have nothing there.

Road hard and put up wet. Those are the best ones, if you get them cheap. After you rebuild everything you know what you have.

I would start there. Unplug it and take it out of the equation. It's just a display so it's not needed for the machine to function but if something is messed up in it, it can cause issues.

Anytime, that's what we are here for.

Are those wires that are cut unplugged from the main harness or still connected? If they are still connected I would unplug them so it rules out any chance of a short.

The bearing on the clutch basket needs to be pushed in (you can see it sticking out) and then everything will line up correctly.

Welcome to the forum.

It will work with gravity feed and no fuel pump (won't be needed) with no issues.

I took some time this weekend to enclose the cook shack for the winter. I was going to build a structure that would slide into place for the winter (then just have it against another shed in the summer for extra storage) but time and money didn't allow that. The tent should be good enough for this year. 

We have a Thursday night football planned this week (high school, not that stupid amazon crap) and snow is expected so wanted to get something done. 

I was tearing down some old sheds this summer so all the reclaimed wood and tin went to housing the griddle, smoker and grill. It's been a work in progress and eventually I might get done with it. So far the only money I have in it is for screws, caulk and some paint. 

Sometimes the shaft will wear a groove in it. The seal should be flat against the case surface when drove in all the way. Even with using protective measures on the output shaft it's possible to knock the spring loose on the seal and without that little tension it will leak.

4mm is a lot of gap, did you replace/get the correct bearings? If it was 1mm or less I would just say a bearing wasn't completely seated and usually a couple taps on the crankshaft (protecting it of course) will get everything in place and moving freely. That much gap I would double check stuff.

6 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

I think for that type of riding/ rules the Bear Claw is supposed to be a good tire.  @toodeep weren't you suggesting those to someone a while back?

 

The original BearClaws are a really good, smooth riding, long lasting tire that will get traction in about every terrain you will come across.

I just got done doing some bacon. We go through a lot of it so I'll be set for a few months.  

Is it turning over slow when it does this? They need a good battery and if the battery is low/bad enough it will rob much needed voltage from the other systems to make the starter operate. When it does that it will flood itself out. I would start with a good battery since it's needed anyway and see what it does from there.