Got it thanks. Also on that nut, i know it has to turn clockwise but that is closewise when looking at it from the read? Also Anyone know what size hex head i need for the cap for the Sight hole for TDC
There's no marks on anything indicating impact. The bore has no scars in it. Some lines but you can't feel them with your finger nail. Piston moves freely on the wrist pin and no vertical play in anything. The valve pattern is even all the way both valves after lapping them in this weekend(intake was fine prior to lapping, exh showed carbon and pinhead rust spots but not really any unevenness).
My presumption is a compression check would tell me if there's a ring/wear problem as well as any issues with my valve train(thinking of runnign 2. 1 w/adjusted lash, one with it backed off a couple turns per the insp standard). I am OK with dropping a cylinder kit on it if I need to...but figure a compression check is in order before I go that route. I also figure now that the timing is sorted(was fine as we discussed) I could also do this in the chassis pretty easy.
Could I do a compression check on the bench? Thinking put head back on it(maybe with old gasket as it seemed to seal fine under 150 psi of compressed air) and spit it over with the starter? For a short spurt, not even sure I'd have to have oil it it...but could throw a couple quarts in it and hook up the oil cooler.
ON a side note. Clymer manual has very odd description of ring gap placement. Every SBC I've ever done is 120^ out of phase from the other rings(from memory)....clymer's showed like 60^ out for each one. I did it per Honda manual out there just now.
Got the rack back from Powder Coating. Turned out better than I had hoped for.
Here is the strap I used for the windshield mount.
An added benefit of the rack, now I know and can see exactly where the front corners of the “Buggy” are.