toodeep

Where it's a hit and miss issue I would put my money on the starter brushes getting worn down and barely making contact. If you can get it to mess up just see if you have voltage going in and out (while pressing the button) of the starter solenoid. If you have power, it's a starter problem.

Vent line. It takes a thin walled hose to sit in the cap enough to stay put. I think at regular part stores you can get windshield washer hose that does the trick.

$271 and some change from rocky mountain atv. I bet they looked it up for a Rubicon (FA) because they retail for around that $470. The starters are different for the Foreman. If you want to go aftermarket I have had good luck with DB electrical starters ($65). Most of the time the internal magnets break on these style of starters and you'll know that by just turning the shaft. It will be very hard to turn (will almost need pliers to turn it).

The fender and air box will flex enough to get one side out then then the other. You can take the fender loose from the floorboard and brace and it will let it flex out even more.

@jotifiI'll reply here so all information is in one place and questions aren't asked twice. Did you happen to check the oil level before you tore it apart? When the transmission doesn't have enough oil pressure it will make a grinding sound since the pistons can't hold solid pressure against the swash plates. Did you try it in both 2x4 and 4x4 (if not in 4x4 already)?

I've had great luck with ricks motorsports electronics CDI unit's, if you want an aftermarket. I personally use them and use them on other peoples machines. I would clean up the wiring back in the battery box. If you have corrosion going on with one of the connectors (regulator, main fuse) it is going to mess with you. You can also take the original CDI (confirming there is no spark at the plug with it) and smack it against the bench. Most of the time that will make them work for a short while. There is also a baking process that can be done to try to make it work again. Again though, if your wiring is a mess... fix it. Especially since your thinking electrical issues. The 300 is pretty simple and there isn't a lot of wiring so you might as well make sure it's 100%.

Shade has it, remove the air box and then it's just a couple bolts and a nut.

Interesting project. It looks like they are using 2 driveshafts between the motor and final drive? There looks to be many options to correct what is needed if you have the time and tools. The time and want would be if it's something you plan on keeping and using or just something to cruise a few times a year. If using as a yard machine (work) I would think about boxing the frame and sitting the motor back so it could hook back to the swingarm like it did in the 3 wheeler. That would make the drive line tougher, take care of motor mount issues plus give extra weight on the rear wheels for traction. Possibly the motor does sit back farther than it looks in the picture???

Do you have any pictures? There has to be a way to get the motor and swingarm sitting in there correctly. Being shaft drive they can take on a pretty good angle but sometimes the u joint needs ground a little for clearance. The case of the motor is the pick up for the oil pump so not much to modify there and messing with the crankcase vent I would think would just give you seal problems which would be a new oil loss issue. Once you start tearing the motor down you will know if it was ran low on oil or if it's just in a place to not get enough air flow to cool properly.

I would put my money on the exhaust as well. Over the years something came loose just enough internally to give some sounds will expanding/contracting. I wouldn't loose any sleep over it and ride it until the exhaust gives issues.

Our new rake tried to give itself a new folding option earlier this year. I didn't catch the bolts coming loose (wasn't really looking for problems on a new peice of equipment) so I got a surprise. I'm just glad it happened later in the day and not 5 in the morning.

Cam chain is stretched and needs replaced. You can use a small flat screw driver and play with the adjuster to confirm but that is what I hear.

In my area they are worthless. You might get one or 2 channels sometimes. Cable tv also isn't available out in the country so I had Dish for years. A couple years ago I got tired of the high prices and switched to you tube tv. Of course their prices went up after doing that but they are still cheaper and with all the channels I wanted. If you can stream there are many apps that offer those channels at different price points. Sorry my answer didn't answer yours. My last antenna i got was done with a lot of research, reading reviews and taking a chance on it working. It did get 3 channels but you had to tune it constantly to get them. That was a lot of years ago and it was an outdoor antenna on a 10ft pole on top of the house.

On the rear. If you jumped the brake arm one notch on the cam (there is a dot on each to line up) then the brake shoes are worn and more than likely the drum a little as well. Add a little spring to help pull the arm back and that will let you get the most out of what looks to be perfectly fine yet still worn out. Factory, just the wingnuts are suppose to be adjusted. On the front I adjust each shoe until you feel resistance and then back it off so the wheel spins free. It might take a ride and some braking to get the shoes in place if they was taken apart so sometimes it takes a couple times to get them good.

Was the shift shaft (spindle) all the way in place when the stopper bolt was installed? That little end is pretty fragile but not that fragile to break without the shifter getting some kind of jolt.