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toodeep

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toodeep last won the day on March 20

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    Gregory, SD

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  1. I always aired down atv tires when installing chains and they are tight when aired back up. I do a lot of higher speed driving with the plow on so I try to avoid using chains. I run the bearclaws until it gets bad and then my old trusty mudbugs get installed. I do almost all my plowing in the sxs now though so the added weight and diff lock make a huge difference (heater and radio is nice as well). I pushed many miles of snow on the 4 wheeler though in the past, just got older and ....... smarter????? lol
  2. I'm not putting a lot in anymore but I'm still here. I'm ready for some slower times to be online more.
  3. toodeep

    Weather

    @Freedomflyer isn't that a warm front in your area.. lol We dropped to the singles digits but nothing below that yet. A nice dusting of snow (moisture was needed) this last weekend so things are looking up, I haven't swatted at a fly for weeks. Looks like a warm up in the future for us though and that's good since I have done none of my wood cutting yet, just a little "get by" stock. I still have to get the outside roof and siding on my shop so I can insulate it and heat it easier. The summer went by way too fast and I was hoping for a little spring to get some projects done.
  4. Did you reinitialize it after replacing the sensor? It would be probably close without but going through that procedure makes sure everything in the system is working together.
  5. Is there a pause in the flashing or is it constant? On the top menu bar you should be able to find a link to a manual.
  6. Sounds like a bad shift fork/gear in the transmission. There can be many things that can cause the damage but it's a complete tear down of the motor to inspect the gears. It's not the first one I've seen that the reverse gear was engaged with the forward gears (that machine was not worth fixing though).
  7. Your riding might be different than for others so the real question is which tripped the meter first, miles or hours. I have customers with the 1000 sxs and since they are street legal here and the manuals conflict oil changes my best recommendation to them is to check the oil. Oil is cheap compared to major overhauls so once it's starting to turn dark you know it's breaking down and collecting particles. Judge it and change the oil when needed. For most of my customers I have seen no benefit of using synthetic over conventional as the heat breaks them down about the same (Ive never done the testing though). They are used for work mainly around here so that makes a difference since they get a lot of slow/idle time.
  8. @fuffs the oil pump on this model is located in the same spacer case that the drain plug is. I bet you have very low or zero oil pressure just from a piece of material finding it's way into the oil pump or the relief valve. If your careful (and it will most likely make a mess) you can remove the oil pressure check bolt and start it to see if there is any oil flowing out (keep your hand on the key to shut it down if needed) and use a finger to "judge" oil pressure. If low/no oil pressure is confirmed I would plan on replacing the case anyway and the trouble area should be in the same place. I've seen just some overly used hondabond cause damage to oil pumps just because of the tight tolerances they have.
  9. I noticed it and had no issues with it at the time with what was going on. I'm still alive, just busy with life. You would think an hour or less of time would be easy to come up with throughout the day but I'm still looking for where March went.
  10. What do you mean by "hard"? Are you doing it at idle, on the throttle or during the ride (moving)?
  11. Make sure the timing on the throttle is correct. The butterfly valve should just start to open and the throttle slide starts to rise. The adjustment arm is known to break on them and put the throttle timing out of sequence.
  12. Your 05 should start in gear the same way.
  13. It's pretty easy to remove the rear final and that cover to fix it. Your going to want a 30mm socket in the future for rear brake repairs/left rear wheel bearing and electric impacts ca be bought fairly cheap. Remove the right hub, undo the brake cables and disconnect the vent line. 4 nuts (14mm) hold the brake assembly on and once those are removed the whole assembly can be slid off. Remove the left hub and the 4 bolts holding on the outer axle tube (14mm again), turn the tube 90 degrees and remove it. Then you can slide the hub stop off the left side (don't forget to reinstall that) and slide the axle out. Just 4 more bolts on the final drive and it will slide out. Then it's just removing the outer cover on the diff, fixing and cleaning, a thin film of hondabond (RTV) and put everything together again. It will probably be a couple hour job the first time but nothing is difficult.
  14. A small propane torch does wonders when trying to get things freed up. I was told that ring is for noise suppression, I throw the things away. Usually by that time the drum is worn down, brake arm needs to be jumped back a notch even with new shoes and all the brakes do is slow you down (very spongy).
  15. I use an electric/air plastic welder and get the rod from Seeley Mfg (many different types to use with various plastics). I use a solder gun to tack the fenders back together on the top and then weld on the bottom side. How good it turns out depends on how long it's been broke and deformed during the break.
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