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toodeep

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toodeep last won the day on February 14

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  1. We never created a specific section for ATC. If there is a demand for that it can be done though. The main part of the machine looks like a atc 185 or 200, the first part of the VIN would say for sure which one. Fuel tank is from a 1977 ATC90.
  2. They (Honda) had an update on those CDI back in the day for this reason. Just replace it and you'll be good to go.
  3. Sounds like the cam chain to me. You can move the adjuster and see if the rattle changes to confirm.
  4. I guess i have only used OEM gaskets so that may be the issue.
  5. I find this to be a weird problem, I have never had a problem. I just drop them in place and let the gasket hold them in position. I've done a lot of them over the years and that's why I find it to be a weird problem.
  6. I've used them since that's what all the newer machines run.
  7. Where it's a hit and miss issue I would put my money on the starter brushes getting worn down and barely making contact. If you can get it to mess up just see if you have voltage going in and out (while pressing the button) of the starter solenoid. If you have power, it's a starter problem.
  8. Vent line. It takes a thin walled hose to sit in the cap enough to stay put. I think at regular part stores you can get windshield washer hose that does the trick.
  9. $271 and some change from rocky mountain atv. I bet they looked it up for a Rubicon (FA) because they retail for around that $470. The starters are different for the Foreman. If you want to go aftermarket I have had good luck with DB electrical starters ($65). Most of the time the internal magnets break on these style of starters and you'll know that by just turning the shaft. It will be very hard to turn (will almost need pliers to turn it).
  10. The fender and air box will flex enough to get one side out then then the other. You can take the fender loose from the floorboard and brace and it will let it flex out even more.
  11. @jotifiI'll reply here so all information is in one place and questions aren't asked twice. Did you happen to check the oil level before you tore it apart? When the transmission doesn't have enough oil pressure it will make a grinding sound since the pistons can't hold solid pressure against the swash plates. Did you try it in both 2x4 and 4x4 (if not in 4x4 already)?
  12. I've had great luck with ricks motorsports electronics CDI unit's, if you want an aftermarket. I personally use them and use them on other peoples machines. I would clean up the wiring back in the battery box. If you have corrosion going on with one of the connectors (regulator, main fuse) it is going to mess with you. You can also take the original CDI (confirming there is no spark at the plug with it) and smack it against the bench. Most of the time that will make them work for a short while. There is also a baking process that can be done to try to make it work again. Again though, if your wiring is a mess... fix it. Especially since your thinking electrical issues. The 300 is pretty simple and there isn't a lot of wiring so you might as well make sure it's 100%.
  13. Shade has it, remove the air box and then it's just a couple bolts and a nut.
  14. Interesting project. It looks like they are using 2 driveshafts between the motor and final drive? There looks to be many options to correct what is needed if you have the time and tools. The time and want would be if it's something you plan on keeping and using or just something to cruise a few times a year. If using as a yard machine (work) I would think about boxing the frame and sitting the motor back so it could hook back to the swingarm like it did in the 3 wheeler. That would make the drive line tougher, take care of motor mount issues plus give extra weight on the rear wheels for traction. Possibly the motor does sit back farther than it looks in the picture???
  15. Do you have any pictures? There has to be a way to get the motor and swingarm sitting in there correctly. Being shaft drive they can take on a pretty good angle but sometimes the u joint needs ground a little for clearance. The case of the motor is the pick up for the oil pump so not much to modify there and messing with the crankcase vent I would think would just give you seal problems which would be a new oil loss issue. Once you start tearing the motor down you will know if it was ran low on oil or if it's just in a place to not get enough air flow to cool properly.
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