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toodeep

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  1. Heat that bottom tube to get the aluminum expanded a little and even a cheap electric impact will help. If using a breaker bar keep the right side in place and just loose. Be careful and take your time as these parts are not the easiest to find. Once it's off then most likely the real fun will begin trying to press it out of the hub/bearings. I have one I have to fix a tire and brakes on, I'm not looking forward to doing it because of the past experiences with them. It will most likely take a lot of time that will cut into my paying jobs (doing this for an old classmate).
  2. I'm glad your got it going and now can enjoy it. I have a different opinion on the transmission than the above statement. Besides wearing the clutches (mostly on the heavier sxs using the same motor) they have been bullet proof.
  3. You'll like the power steering especially on rough trails. The suspension is usually pretty stiff on these models but IRS is a different ride and you get use to it the more time you spend on it. If it has a lot of miles on it or carried heavy loads on the racks the rear sway bar might have some play giving it a different feeling as well. Axles aren't really a huge issue but the stiff plastic boots they use makes it hard to find even the smallest hole in them (you about have to see the grease residue). Because of that it's easy to get moisture in them and ruin an axle before you even know you have an issue. Replacement boots (I like the all balls brand) and most aftermarket axles have the rubber boots that you can squeeze and hear the air come out with a small hole in it. All in all they are a good machine and dependable.
  4. With it being new it's going to shift a little hard at first. Once you break it in and the clutch is readjusted it will get better. If the R is showing on the indicator you can start it by pulling the front brake lever (right). If it's stuck between a gear and showing -- that will not work. If you can get it running it will make it easier to shift since the gears will be rotating some (you might need to give a little throttle though). When they are first started they will run a little faster until warmed up and that makes them harder to shift as well. You might want to let it warm up if you still can't get it to shift. If you can't get it started either by the front brake or trying to shift it back into reverse to get the R rock it back and forth quite a bit and work the shifter with your hand. The IRS gives some play in the drive line so it take a little extra rocking to get the gears to move.
  5. Just the head gasket. The cylinder has enough smaller bolts holding it in place that the gasket stays bonded.
  6. I use an air/electric plastic welder (if you have any older body shops around they might have one) and do the weld on the bottom side of the fender. mine is a knock off of the Seeley welder but I haven't seen them in a long time (on the cheap side). It's as strong or stronger than before the damage. I haven't used any of the cheap versions offered now to know if they are any good or not. The glues do not hold, you would be better off heating paper clips and forcing them in like the "welder" fish posted.
  7. Was the letters up on the shift forks when they was installed? I don't even know if it's possible to install them upside down but maybe it is. They should have had RR, CN, FR on them and they all would face the front side of the motor. Those would have been pulled loose or removed when replacing the shifter (what the fork slides into) for the 1st/reverse gear.
  8. You faced the dots on the new shifter towards the first gear correct? if your bench testing the shifting with the cases apart sometimes you need to rotate them a lot and help them fall into place.
  9. The problem is hit and miss and with the number of machines out there kind of a small number. I haven't had any issues after replacing them with OEM parts. I've seen issues with aftermarket cams as well so it's not just OEM that can do it.
  10. I stick with OEM. I've ran the performance cams in the Rincons and can't say they did anything by themselves. You will need a head gasket, head cover gasket, camshaft and followers. You might want to get the exhaust gasket on the cylinder head as well. With only 500 miles on it all the other parts should be like new yet. A little tip when setting the timing, lay a flat card/razor blade on the head to help line up the mark. If you have a local dealer they might have the stuff in stock. Ordering online I go through Rocky Mountain ATV for my stuff.
  11. The start in gear switch not getting turned off because of a sticking brake lever is known but that start to spit and sputter right away when trying to ride it. The reverse limiter would do the same, kill the ignition making it spit and sputter way before the speed he is getting out of it. I haven't seen that issue but I suppose anything can happen.
  12. Don't forget on the 450 they used ES/S from 98-01. They switched to FE/FM when they added the traxlock for the 02-04. Now all the newer models it's all letters and numbers (ex. FE2) so it covers power steering, if it's a deluxe and the suspension with just a number. 1- SRA, 2- SRA w/ EPS, 5- IRS, 6- IRS w/ EPS, 7- IRS w/ eps and deluxe Just adding a little more to the knowledge given already.
  13. Where is it leaking? I have came across a few over the years that the reverse stop arm wasn't seated correctly (I would guess they thought it stayed in place) and the spring put a groove in the cases when they tried to put it back together. A little high temp hondabond fixed them right up.
  14. Remove the cabin seat back and crap little black cover. With it running play with the wires going to the injectors and you might find a bad one. It's common enough you can buy the pre wired connectors all over the web.
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