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toodeep last won the day on March 20

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    Gregory, SD

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  1. What do you mean by "hard"? Are you doing it at idle, on the throttle or during the ride (moving)?
  2. Make sure the timing on the throttle is correct. The butterfly valve should just start to open and the throttle slide starts to rise. The adjustment arm is known to break on them and put the throttle timing out of sequence.
  3. Your 05 should start in gear the same way.
  4. It's pretty easy to remove the rear final and that cover to fix it. Your going to want a 30mm socket in the future for rear brake repairs/left rear wheel bearing and electric impacts ca be bought fairly cheap. Remove the right hub, undo the brake cables and disconnect the vent line. 4 nuts (14mm) hold the brake assembly on and once those are removed the whole assembly can be slid off. Remove the left hub and the 4 bolts holding on the outer axle tube (14mm again), turn the tube 90 degrees and remove it. Then you can slide the hub stop off the left side (don't forget to reinstall that) and slide the axle out. Just 4 more bolts on the final drive and it will slide out. Then it's just removing the outer cover on the diff, fixing and cleaning, a thin film of hondabond (RTV) and put everything together again. It will probably be a couple hour job the first time but nothing is difficult.
  5. A small propane torch does wonders when trying to get things freed up. I was told that ring is for noise suppression, I throw the things away. Usually by that time the drum is worn down, brake arm needs to be jumped back a notch even with new shoes and all the brakes do is slow you down (very spongy).
  6. I use an electric/air plastic welder and get the rod from Seeley Mfg (many different types to use with various plastics). I use a solder gun to tack the fenders back together on the top and then weld on the bottom side. How good it turns out depends on how long it's been broke and deformed during the break.
  7. I just use an air blower to remove/install grips. A little air swells them enough to slide right on and done.
  8. It has the wrong part number listed (420 uses a HP5). I only use OEM parts for that stuff, cheap ones can cause more dollars in damage than they save you sometimes.
  9. Have you tried using a pick or small magnet to turn the bolt out? You might get lucky and that will be all it takes.
  10. The torque on the right pivot bolt is the most important to get correct. It sets the preload on the bearings. Too tight and you'll get premature bearing wear, too loose and you'll have play. I've seen people over tighten that bolt and over time spread the frame resulting in a crack on the frame. The lock nut just locks in in place since it's a low torque number.
  11. You have new battery and your not getting a neutral light until your trying to kick start it? Sounds like the wiring corroded in the terminals for the main power (white connector just in front of the battery). I would inspect those connectors and lightly pull on each wire to make sure they are good.
  12. Now days one of my first questions are is it still the OEM carb or a cheap replacement? The cheap carbs are a hit and a miss for a good one and most are jetted incorrectly.
  13. When i weld to the race I use a rod that will fit in the race and have it at an angle on the first weld, start welding on the rod to the race. I then straighten it while it's still hot and do another weld on the other side. You can get more of the race on the first weld with the rod at an angle instead of just the top of the race. If your building a good trail/multi use machine I would replace the gear set. If it's just going to be a mud/water machine I would throw a bearing kit in it (aftermarket), fill it full of grease and go for broke.
  14. I'm not a huge fan of the gator blades for my mowing conditions. There just isn't enough lift to effectively cut the grass. The 5+ acre lawn I have has many different types of grass, sun/shade and then I do some clean up of tall grass from time to time. If I had a decent lawn that I could keep up on mowing all at one time in dry conditions they probably would be good enough. I still have a set that I put on in the drier months and the grass isn't growing quite as fast so it does more of a mulch than lift/throw. I retired all the old mowers and went to a zero turn a few years ago. I cut my mowing time in half or more and the hustler is a grass eating machine. I'm going to get an older (not old) cub going this summer so the boy can take a little of the mowing on while I'm working.
  15. I would remove the shift motor and gears and shift it manually to check that stop bolt. If you shift it, let go of the tool and it returns by itself it's good. If it doesn't it broke and the shift return spring isn't doing it's job.
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