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Bman

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  1. Yeah pointy is how my pinion is haha. When I got the ATV seller mentioned specifically that the rear end didn't have any striped splines. Which is probably a tell that you're spot on with what was done. Gonna try it and see.
  2. I've got my eye on a parts machine with a rear axle. But in the mean time I took a trip to my local hardware store and grabbed some machine washers with the right inner diameter. Two 18gauge (1.2mm). And two 14 gauge. (2.0mm) So stock starting point would be 2.0mm on both sides right?. Tried that. Still sloppy. Audible clunk/clank when rocking the axel back and forth. Tried 2.0 on the left side and 1.2mm on the right. It got the ring closer and was better, but still a clunk/clank when rocked hard enough. 2.0mm left. Nothing on the right was worse all around. My best combination. And quietest is both 1.2mm on the left side or 2.4mm and nothing on the right. Much less clunk and no metal "clank". Isn't binding. Can turn the hub with one hand relatively easy. So until I can get the other diff or purchase a new ring and pinion im gonna try this. I'm just doing this all by feel/what I hear. I don't have the tools to measure back lash. And id say the pinion being worn like it isn't helping.
  3. From what I can tell the Rubicon 500 and the foreman 500 have the same rear diff as well.
  4. The more I looked at it the more I do want to change out the pinion. Like I say the edges of the teeth are worn down to points instead of them being flat. But between the gear set, the shims, and the seals id be right the same as just buying one of those replacement differentials. Gonna do some research on those diffs and see if they have any good reviews.
  5. And upon some closer Inspection the ring and pinion are only engaging at the very tip of the gears. And the ring gear is in so much better shape than the pinion id say someone replaced the ring gear and didn't touch the pinion. Because the teeth on the pinion are worn to fine edges. Where as the ring still had it's flats on the teeth
  6. Took it apart again. And I was Right. There aren't any shim spacers on the ring gear or stuck to the bearings. So that's what's going on with the noise.
  7. I wondered if I just missed them. But I cleaned everything up by hand and I figured they would have come off it. The pinion did show some pretty good wear compared to the ring. And it's got some play before I feel the the teeth engage. So I'll probably grab some shims and try shimming it into the pinion a bit more. It's pretty loud when just spinning it by hand with the wheels up. Anyone buy any of those non OEM replacement rear diffs? Most of them around 250$.
  8. Took apart my rear diff this last week to inspect. The differential has been pretty noisy at speed. Running some Lucas oil stabilizer does help it quite some. But not a ton. Cleaned it out and inspected the ring and pinion. Ring looks decent the pinion definitely has some teeth wear. No metal In the diff oil oddly enough. But I did notice after I re-sealed it that I didn't recall seeing any shim/spacers on either side of the ring gear. So I imagine the ring gear is floating on the axle a bit and it's engagement to the pinion being sloppy is the sound. Got on the parts breakdown and there's several different options for those shim spacers. Where do I begin? How do I know when I got it right?
  9. I live by Windrock Park in Tennessee. And it's 80% sxs or jeep. You occasionally will see a few ATVs. To the point alot of local powersport stores hardly carry tires or parts in general for ATVs. Unless they're newer (2015+) can am or Polaris. And even then generally those have to go back to the dealer you bought them from to get service or parts. Shockingly I found a new Honda emergency shift tool at the one by me. Though it had a very old tag on it back before the store changed owners.
  10. There's a lot of side by side riding where I live. Not much in the way of ATVs anymore. And 14s are all over marketplace. Alot of factory take offs too that have zero use on them that the seller is just trying to get rid of for far less than the tires would have been new.
  11. Would like to get a set of 14"s actually. There's a ton of selection on tires in that size where I live.
  12. Oh Im sure the offset is the biggest issue. Planning on grabbing a new set of steel rims when I get the spare cash for a set and new set of tires. What makes them caliper spacers as opposed to being considered wheel spacers? Actually curious. I considered them wheel spacers as they go over the studs and space the wheel.
  13. Yeah when I come across a good set I'll grab them up. I like the added stability, but you just can't ride close to the edges like you need in some spots without the wheels catching.
  14. I'm referring to these spacers. Top of the image above the calipers. Not caliper spacers but wheel spacers as to help clear for the caliper. Atleast I assume that's why their in the kits. Both mine and his has these spacers. I know the 10 wides are excessive I'm wanting to put 8 wides back on. Id like to keep the itp wheels but I can find some stock steel wheels if they clear and get the wheels back where I want them.
  15. Any of those knuckles change the axles I'd need?
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