toodeep

They don't by chance still have the original carb on a shelf one could clean and swap out for testing? If this was an EFI machine I would suggest trying the TPS/MAP sensor but I have never had one go bad on a carb model to know if they can give the same issues.

That sub harness was part of a recall like jeep said. When they was installed a "drain" was also cut in the main harness so there would be no chance of moisture getting to the TPS and it freezing the throttle in cold climates. The TPS is just set by ohms so if it's a new oem carb that should not be an issue.

Any idea on what they was doing or when/how the problem started? Have you tried running it with the airbox lid removed? Does the exhaust feel like it has normal pressure coming out of it?

I'm guessing this isn't a mud machine (stock snorkel) but with enough miles and heavy use jumping time is another possibility.

How does the throttle plunger look in it and did you look to make sure the seat for the throttle needle didn't accidentally fall out at some point?

I'll keep thinking as I'm sure I have had one do this in the past but the file data base in my head is very disorganized so it might take a while to find it. lol

Depends on the elevation changes. If your setting at 2,000 feet and the machine runs perfect and you jump to 10,000 feet it will run rich and most likely lower on power. I sit at around 2,000 and when I go out to the hills (I think around 5,000-6,000) I notice no difference in my machines. If you could get a rough idea on what the elevation changes might be we could probably answer better.

Same part, just different numbers. One was superseded.

@_Wilson_™ I have ran those also (Honda makes one just like those) but the ones I used the most are the F210/220 and the F501. To get to the Honda rear tine you had to get in the 800 series. Honda made many different tillers over the years. Some of their very first ones you could convert into snow blowers so it could be used year around.

I've only used the Honda mid tine tillers but I believe even Hondas biggest tiller was a rear tine so it wasn't so "jumpy" when in hard ground. We always use the tractor and disk on the garden area so we don't have that issue, very often, when getting it ready.

If your buying new I doubt your going to find any really good deals. Dealers are having a hard time getting anything and of course Honda is not doing any promotions or rebates. I would shop around and find the best deal. If your not afraid of the used market you might find a decent 300 2x4 at a good deal or even a 350/420 rancher 2x4.

The kid has been riding the 4 wheeler for fun but I have been putting some time in with the MUV. I didn't get enough wood cut so now I'm busting through the snow to ride out the next couple months. About a week ago it warmed up pretty good for a few days so I went to check and see how much the drift in the backyard was going down. My guess is this settled down 4-6 feet since the last time I was on it. This drift goes for a good 300 yards to the fence line and then another 150 yards into my back yard. 

10 minutes ago, shadetree said:

oh..ok.my bad..then you are correct :-).

I figured you was speed reading and missed the part of it messing up in the other gears and not just going to neutral. The long post not broke up into paragraphs can be hard to follow sometimes, especially when the topic jumps around.

@shadetree he is having shifting issues, not clutch issues. Almost all the shifting components are under the left side cover.

@bbush44 18, 19, 20 and 21 are all common issues. My guess would be #19 possibly has a crack letting it open just enough to not complete the shift. This diagram is under the gearshift drum on the parts finders.

I would ride it more and keep working it. Once you do dig into it most likely the issue will be found under the left side cover of the machine. Could be a crack in the shift plate/shaft, weak spring for the return or who knows with unknown wear over the years. All the main components are under the left cover though and no special tools needed. If I remember right you might have to take the motor mounts loose so you can pry the motor up just enough for the cover to clear the frame. It's been a day or two since I had one of those covers off.

The only issue i can think of using a 450 would be the speed sensor. Other than that it will bolt in no problem and the needed electronics will work. That would be putting the motor into a 450 roller. Once you get into the suspension components you will find the differences in frames, a-arms and stuff.

Most of the time it's just wiring. They like to break on the right side (follow the temp sensor wire over to the main harness) and they break in the bend area where it goes to the main harness. Nothing is a sure thing though so step one has to be done to go onto step 2.

If you want to go OEM without spending the $90 the 22/23 model trx solenoids are around $22 retail. You will have to wire in the connector (and a length of wire) from the old one but that isn't a big deal. All the other model years would work also but they jumped those prices over $50 now (use to be around $30).

Is the noise a grinding (ish) loudest at the front left side of the motor? How is the oil level?

That would be it and it's right in the spark plug area of the head. If you unplug the sensor the fan should run all the time when the key is on.

You won't need a tuner for just exhaust. I guarantee if you do it and check the plug after a ride you'll still find it's running rich. If your really cheap get a tractor muffler, cut the stock off and mount it up. 

That motor is original to that machine and all US. It was sold on 07/05/2004 to a Harris.

If your getting a new sparkplug get a IFR5L-11 and not the BKR5E-11. The iridium plug costs more but it is worth it. 

Okay, I was just making sure you wasn't wasting time on something that was bad. With all the aftermarket parts on that machine and the messed up wiring I can see where your having issues.

That green connector from the handlebar switch goes to the rear connector, the colors of the wiring should verify that. Next issue is the change switch connector. You showed a 3 prong connector in the video and that should be a 2 prong, the speed sensor would be a 3 prong.

@shawn76  I'll post it here in public for everyone to see.

Was the battery about dead or good in that video? If it was good, that motor is in trouble.

Have you checked the battery voltage while the machine is idling? You should be getting 13-14 volts while it's running. If all your getting is battery voltage the regulator/rectifier could be starting to get bad and it will mess with the ignition.

I would start with a new iridium spark plug (they do make a difference in the cold weather) and make sure the battery is 100%. Are you waiting for everything to cycle before trying to start it? Another thing I have ran into is fuel. Against everything everyone will tell you, I have had the best results with the 10% ethanol in the cold weather. Straight unleaded would lead to long starts or the flooding problem your having. I have 3 420s and a MUV700 BigRed. They all start a little different in the cold weather but they never fail to start. I have one customer that has to get fuel from a different supplier and the 10% in the winter months or his machine refuses to start unless it's warm (his farm tank gets filled with unleaded). 

For the really cold starts (temps in the negatives) there is a procedure to help them that works great but lets start with the basics for these warmer cold starts.  

95/96 didn't have a speedometer like 97+ so there will be some differences in the harness. Everything should be the same enough though to make it just run.