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Bluezulu49

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    Dublin, Ireland
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  1. Hi Shade, Funnily enough we had put two O rings on the axle at the brake side but I did remember to take them off before I tried to get the brake off the axle. I could not figure out what was causing the stoppage and took a magnified picture to see if there was anything jamming the bearing. Picture attached. I think the objects at 6 o'clock in the picture are bits of grease. Both of the O rings were perfect and this time I put one on each end of the axle next to the relevant bearing. After the work yesterday I found that the handbrake was not working. Some head scratching later I came to the conclusion that the cable was too long so I had a look in my very modest stash of "stuff which might someday be useful" and found an iron bicycle cable adjuster and two aluminium ones. ( Please note that I operate on the rule that you keep a thing for seven years and if you can find no use for it, keep it for another seven). I did a little fettling of the adjuster and put it on the cable next to the handlebar brake lever. Now we have a working handbrake.
  2. Yesterday the replacement axle and recovered saddle arrived so I got to work. First thing to do was put down cardboard on the gravel. Then I jacked up the rear end of the quad and supported it on timbers. The broken end of the axle is visible. Next I undid the brake cables and cable tied them to the silencer (muffler). Then I undid the wheelnuts on the remaining wheel and removed it and the wheel hub.The drive and brake guards were then removed. Next I separated the brake unit from the swinging arm. This is held on by four nuts. the lower front nut is obscured by the towbar. I did not remove the towbar at this stage as I had difficulty with it previously. More about this later. With the brake separated from the swingarm I loosened the axle locking nuts on that side. These are 41mm nuts and I still have the spanners I bought when we rescued the quad 3 years ago. The brake side nuts were easy.The drive side were much tighter. I had to block one spanner with a piece of timber and use a piece of pipe on the other to open the locknut. See picture. Once the nuts were off the axle came out. This is where the difficulty started. The brake unit is supposed to slide off the axle in one piece. It would not. After a little thought I opened the brake unit, took off the cover, splined drum and brake shoes. The cover was, I thought, in very good condition considering that it now lives on a fairly wet farm. I put the broken axle in a vice and tapped the brake backing plate off using a timber mallet. The plate eventually came away, leaving the bearing stuck on the axle. At this stage my gloves were pretty greasy so there are no pictures from here on. I tapped the bearing off the axle. This took a fair bit of force, (lump hammer and timber mallet), but eventually it came off. When I tried to put the bearing back into the brake backing plate it would not go in, probably because yesterday was the hottest day of the year here with a temperature of about 25C (77F). I put the bearing in the freezer for about 10 minutes and then inserted it in the break backing plate. While I was waiting for the bearing to shrink I installed the axle in the rear drive. After cleaning up the brake pads and the inside of the drum I reassembled the brake unit. When I attempted to put the brake on the axle, it got stuck at the splines and would not go on. So I dismantled the brake again, took the axle out of the quad, padded it and placed it in the vice. I tapped the splined drum onto the axle, a little at a time and then back off. Once I had it fully on the splines it moved back and forth relatively freely. So I re-assembled the brake, put it on the axle, screwed on the retaining nuts and replaced the axle in the quad. In order to get the brake snug against the swinging arm I had removed the splined brake actuator arm. Once I had attached the brake to the swinging arm I found that I could not re-attach the actuator as the towbar was in the way. This led to the previous problem with the towbar. It is clamped on the axle tube by four bolts, two at the front which attach from the bottom and two at the back which attach from the top. All of them screw into captive bolts. My problem was that one of the rear captive bolts was stripped and I had placed a loose nut in the cavity below the captive nut. The bolt initially slackened and then the nut rotated. It took me a while to stop the nut rotating but I eventually got it off. The brake actuator arm was then put back on, followed by the towbar. The rear end of the towbar is a triangular hollow box and it is difficult to hold the loose nut inside it. I managed to get it secured by first tightening the other three towbar bolts and then holding the nut with a bent needlenose pliers. Once the towbar was on it was plain sailing and the wheels were put back on. I hope I have not been too longwinded here and that this information might be of use to someone else. Spot welding the loose nut in the towbar is on Turbo's to do list.
  3. Good to be back. Quad is on its way back to me again!
  4. So times have moved on, Turbo has moved out and now lives on a small farm in the north east of the country. His TRX300 lives there too and has led an uneventful life until yesterday when this happened. As a result I have had no interaction with the quad since I last posted. Have any of you guys ever experienced this kind of failure? Pictures below.
  5. From the number plate in the windscreen its a 1990.
  6. We only got two days pheasant shooting this season due to Corona lockdowns. Last Saturday was our final day and I finally got to ride Turbo's 300. Happy new year from Ireland.
  7. Just want to report that Shade's advice on removing the rocker arm shaft pins worked very well. This week I took the opportunity of a windless day, (no good for fly fishing in a boat ), to take off the cam cover and change the o rings in the rocker arm shafts. It took a while to free the pins using Shade's vice method but they came out and as I suspected the o rings were very hard. There was no elasticity left in them so they both broke as I was taking them off with a pick. The new ones went on fine and I pressed the locking pins back gently using the vice. No pictures I'm afraid as I was working alone. Many thanks again Shade.
  8. Lost the text in the above post. Unfortunately only took one photo of the high undergrowth with a path through it. I was amazed how a single pass of the quad and mower turned an impenetrable jungle of thorny blackberries into an easily walked path. Picture 2 shows the pheasants enjoying a walk in the grass Turbo had just cut and the last picture is of one of the game crops.
  9. Turbo is back at work today so I'll take up the story. We went cutting yesterday and it quickly became apparent that having 8 blades rather than 4 was putting an extra load on the engine. We were lucky in that the landowner happened to come by and had an 8mm allen key which we needed to remove the blades. Once the mower was back to 4 blades it ran much better in the high grass. I must say that I was sceptical as to how well the mower might work but Turbo did a great job and it works extremely well. It can cope with nettles, briars ( blackberries) and even small willows which grow wild everywhere on the shoot. The game crop in these pictures was just over knee high. It includes millet, sunflower, maize, cornflowers, facelia and some others unknown to me. We wanted to make a path through it so that the pheasants would have a dry space to wander in and to provide access for the feeding quad. I have videos as well and will post them when I figure it out!
  10. Back on to the original topic!. Turbo just came back from holidays with the mower and there is a light film of oil on the camshaft cover. It appears to be coming from a failed o ring on the exhaust valve rocker shaft. I note that there is a reference in the manual to grinding the rocker arm dowel pins and removing them with a special tool. Is it strictly necessary to do this or is there another way to get the pins out? Thanks.
  11. This is another of Turbos projects. Our house was built in 1953. The main structure is built of 4" concrete blocks on their flats which were probably cast on site. Some time in the 1960s the standard for 4" solid blocks here changed to a smaller width and height. So for anyone repairing an old wall there is a problem as the older blocks were both longer and higher. Our boundary wall was damaged by a combination of wind, time and inadequate supporting pillars and as a result it cracked from top to bottom and could be moved by hand. Turbo has had no work since Wednesday so he decided to repair the wall. Fortunately he was able to obtain sand, cement and blocks through his work. All of our hardware stores are closed at the moment so he was lucky to be able to get the materials. He solved the problem of matching old and new by inserting a vertical expansion gap in the wall with supporting pillars on either side of the gap. His mother and me are very lucky to have such a multi talented son. With some luck we will have the gaskets for the tappet adjusters next week and we will then fix the oil leaks in the top of the engine. In the meantime I am taking advantage of Turbo's presence to repoint our patio which I constructed 30 years ago. As an over 70 individual under mandatory cocooning (lockdown) it is now four weeks and one day since I left our house and gardens. Really looking forward to going fishing again and I hope it will be this year. We hope that all of you are safe and at home, as we are.
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