SlammedRanger

In my experiance the db electrical one is maybe 20 dollars more than a china cheap-o. But they are the ones everyone swears by. And i have one on my quad and its been on it for about 4 years. Zero issues.

Ok good. Thats good news. The starter is gunna just be tired then. You can pull them apart and rebuild them. But honestly i would just get one off ebay from db electrical. Stay away from the super cheap china junk ones. They dont last.

Ok what i would do to start is take the plug out of the side cover and turn the engine over by hand with the 17mm bolt. Make sure you only turn it counter clockwise. Make sure it turns freely. You should have some compression to push through but it shouldnt be really hard to turn a full revolution. The starter can get hot for a few reasons. Engine not turning over smoothly or the electric motor is getting worn out. We want to be sure its not engine binding up.

Welcome to the forums. When you say its getting hot. What part is getting hot? It does sound to me like your starter is on its way out. Cranking slow can be an indicator of that. Saying the battery is fully charged.

Thats beyond my computer skills lol. But i agree and im sure its something that can be done easy enough. If its paper though it will have to be individualy scanned to a document file. Which is actually what alot of the free downloads online are. Sometimes you can see a grease covered finger print here and there lol.

Welcome aboard!

The piece down in the hole is not part of the emulsion tube. It is there to help guide the needle into the hole. It is a press in part. They can wear out when the needle is bouncing around in there but its not very common. I actually had to change all 4 on a gsxr750 i had years ago. They were known to oval the hole and cause all sorts of mid range issues.

15 hours ago, shadetree said:

by lifting it, i save my jacks, save my septic line, and can now lower my rear steps that go into the back door, and be able to open and close the rear door without it jamming up on the top of the steps. the steps fold up into the doorway when traveling. last but not least, it will level up better to my WDH on my truck, and the tension bars won't drag on the ground as much. so yeah..this will save me a ton of headche in the long run. yes..i'll lose mpg a tad ?, but its not enough to worry about, camper only weighs in about 3k empty i think it is ?.

I guess being that light maybe they put it that low to help line the frame up with suv's. Being that light i would bet they are pulled by suvs and cars more than trucks? The functional benefit is worth your effort though for sure. We broke our main sewer line on our camper pulling into a track that had some less than level access. Wasnt a hard fix its just abs cut and glued on the new pieces and it was like it never happened. Our toyhauler is leaf over axle already so cant go any higher without lift blocks. The placement of the sewer pipe is dumb though. Only a foot back from the front of the camper way to far forward of the axles.

Must just be a down south thing. Cuz up here all campers look lifted like you did there. Only positive i could see from it would be maybe a marginal bit better gas milage being less wind drag.

Welcome aboard!

Welcome aboard!

Welcome aboard! This a 450r or trx450? The options are kinda endless at this point. Topend needs pulled to see what damage has been done. Then the other question is why was it ran low on oil? Did it burn it all? Leak out? Removed and not replaced? Running low on oil on any engine damages almost always multiple parts. I would check the cam lobes, cylinder wall, piston skirts, piston ring gaps, wrist pin, rod bearings, oil pump. Clutch if its a wet clutch. The list goes on and on. That list would be where i start.

Well talked to my dad about it and showed him the pictures. He is stumped aswell. He said back in the 70s maytag was coming out with all sorts of tools to work on there washers. He would bet its from that time period. We are thinking the only thing it would have been used for was to pry up on the transmission shaft to get a c-clip on it. We always just used a small flat tip but this tool would have made that alittle easier. Aside from that we see no point or use for it on anything maytag made.

Thats the old maytag logo. I would bet my dad knows what it was used for. Is the slot in it squared off or round? Cant tell from your pictures. If its squared off i bet its to loosen the lock nuts on the legs on a washer. It can get too tight for an open end wrench so that would be plenty skinny to get in there.

14 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

 

That is the truth ---- I don't usually buy extended warranties  , I did for this one -------  it is not worth repairing anything now days , better to just buy new --- how you feel about GE=General Electric 

GE made good fridges, ovens and freezers. Washers and dryers were junk. Anymore i tell everyone to buy frigidaire. Which ge and frigidare are all made by electrolux. Or atleast they were when i kept track of that type of thing. Possible it could have changed since then tho.

Case and point for why our family appliance repair business called it quits. Everything sold is being designed with planned obsolecence there number 1 priority. Im honestly blown away you got that many years out of a samsuck. Only thing they make worth anything are tvs and phones. We used to tell everyone dont waste your money on extended warrantys. Anymore you really need them to have any chance at getting more than 2 years out of the junk they sell. And 99.9% of the time the warranty doesnt cover what your problem is anyway or you cant find a place with a repair guy competent enough to tie his own shoes. Let alone fix anything.

Welcome aboard! The last thing any of us here are worried about is anyone knowing the "lingo". Your just as welcome here as anyone else that needs help with there atv!

22 minutes ago, Preston said:

Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures on my phone right now but I’ll post some when I get home. Sounds like if I want to fix it I need to get some aftermarket A arms

Saying they even make them for that quad. Sport quads have them for when we go long travel for racing. With gncc racing branching out into utility quad racing there is a chance atleast.

Welcome aboard! Got any pictures? The 400ex's im used to working on are well known for being welded in the factory with jigs that werent set up right. Alot of them are noticably cambered from the factory on only one side. Almost all the aftermarket a-arm manufacturers have gone to replaceable upper and lower ball joints that are threaded so they can be adjusted compensate for this.

9 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

 

Yep , they got it so wrong this year , that was the worst Championship game ever , definitely was not entertaining --- I heard talk of them going to a different system next year , think it is a 12 team play off instead of 4 

Yep i think its confirmed for 2024. There were some other changes aswell. But the 12 team change was the most impactfull.

3 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Congrats to Georgia for winning the College Playoffs decisively , not going to lie I was pulling for TCU , was very surprised  at how bad they got beat ----   

Just confirms the committee got it wrong. Should obveously have been ohiostate vs georgia for the final. If they were actually worried about putting best vs best and not other things. They should have made ohiostate play michigan again to prove we belonged in the top 4. That and us vs georgia was the game everyone wanted to see and should have seen.

8 minutes ago, Snow Camo said:

Parts...Well that's something to look into before I go 700x. I did notice they seem to grip better in turns. 

 

Proper suspension. Care to elaborate? I saw Pete hagar demo a uniball suspension a while back and he raved about it. You could clearly see that suspension basically turned to quad into a different bike. That said I remember when I looked it up the cost was like 4-5k usd.

 

With that he really could go over all the woops and any terrain full blast and he looked like none of the bumps even phased him one bit.

Its less about the actual suspension and more about the tuning of it. I had my rebound set to high and thats what caused it to toss me. My suspension is elka stage 3. Had them re-valved and tuned for my weight and riding style by BNR performance. My quad has a long travel setup and it absorbs anything now that i had the shocks setup and tuned.

Aftermarket support for the 700xx was not horrible. Only problem with them is they only sold for a few years and parts are few and far between. IRS has its ups and downs. If you want to sling the quad around a corner full blast the IRS will flex and grip and not really slide much. Solid axles quads will buck you off if you hit a big bump wide open. Ask me how i know lol. But with proper suspension setup they can handle anything you throw at them. Look up gncc racing. Its a bucket list item for me to run a xc type race. Still havent pulled the trigger. Got smoked by my cartwheeling quad after flying over the handlebars while doing some woods racing practice. Went back to what i know. MX racing lol.

After having a namura piston snap a skirt off on a blaster and destroy everything like a bomb went off in it. I have never used them again. Wiseco on the other hand i have personally installed 10 or more. Great quality pistons.

Here is my position on the situation. This 200sx has little to almost zero aftermarket support. The engine design isnt good. Not a performance engine at all. Heck its worse than most utility quads in engine design. Why not buy say a 300ex? You can pick up one for like 500 dollars or less. And the aftermarket support explodes. The sky is the limit. Take this information for what its worth. But modifications are addicting. I had a 300ex before my 400 i have now. I made my 300ex a 330 big bore. Did everything under the sun dropped crazy money and time and got walked away from by a stock 400ex. Sold it and got a 400ex. Built it. And eventually sold it. I built the one i have now for mx racing and just hit a few fair races once a year. I used to do exactly what you are doing. Do it for fun. That fun ends up costing alot down the road. I got well over 10k in my build. Prolly between all the quads ive had and built somewhere in the 20k to 30k range. You start going down the road of custom and those numbers double and triple quick. Aftermarket support is honestly the only way to do mods and not go broke. This coming from someone who paid almost 700 dollars for one custom piston.

1 minute ago, _Wilson_™ said:

@Wheeler Also can give some insight on this to..... Performance ... He mods just about everything he gets..... Lol!..... I think even a weed eater or it might have been a leaf blower... Lol!.... Why anyone would want more power from ether one of those machines is something i try not to think about... Lol!! 

Some people have alot of leaves to blow. And performance is a must! LoL😉