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Z7What

Electrical Issue 2012 Rancher

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Hows it going fellas, sorry i havnt been on much lately life is crazy right now and i literally don't have time to get on the computer. Well anyways as most of you know my Rancher is solely used for hunting. Last time i can it was Jan 2021. Its stored in a 40' seacan at the lease. This past weekend a member who is also very good friend of mine went up to the lease to do a little work. I asked him to use my bike since it hadnt been run since Jan. He got up there Friday afternoon and after fixing a water leaks he opened the seacan and got my bike out. He said it cranked right up and worked just fine the entire evening. Saturday afternoon he went to get on it again, turned the and when he hit the start button the dash lights dimmed. Him thinking the battery was dead he pulled his bike around to jump it. WELL.... he connected the cables to his bike and when going to attach the cables to mine he accidently hooked them up backward for a split second. Now when you turn the key on the bike does absolutely nothing. No dash lights, not fuel pump hum, no taillights, nothing works. I as mentioned above life is so busy right now i havnt has a chance to look at it much. I did check the battery and its good, the winch still works because thats connected directly to the battery. No fuses are blown either. I am getting power to the main 30amp fuse but thats as far as ive gotten to troubleshoot it.

 

I know its hard for anyone to say whats wrong but anybody have something like that happen that could point me in the right direction?

 

Im thinking because the bike ran Friday with no problem after sitting almost 6 months and acted like a dead battery the next im leaning towards a ground issue and him hooking up the jumper cables backwards may have cause this said ground wire to break completely killing the entire bike.

 

Any Ideas?

 

Wayne

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Hi Wayne , maybe the 3 way diode for the secondary problem 

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Before going into work tonight I decided to pull all the front plastics off the bike to give me better access to all the harnesses and connections just behind the radiator. After doing so I figured I’d start at the ignition switch and work my way back. In the service manual it’s states that with the ignition switch in the on position I should have continuity between the Red/Black & Pink and between the Red & Black wires. Grab the meter and nothing between each group of wires. Started giggling and moving the key. Doing this gave me random continuity but with high resistances so that tells me the ignition switch is a problem. So I ended up splicing each group of wires together to bypass the key and plugged it in and still nothing but doing this blew the main 30amp fuse. So I took the splices apart and reattached them to the ignition switch and replaced the fuse. Tapped the ignition switch pretty hard against the frame, inserted the key and she’s ALIVE after having to use my jump box on the battery. 

 

Load tested the battery and it’s bad so a combination of a bad battery and bad ignition switch was the issue!!

 

Glad it wasn’t anything major!

 

Now with that said who makes the largest/best battery that fits in the factory location? The battery in it currently is a YTX14-BS  

 

Wayne

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I get Yuasa from Rocky Mountain ATV.  They're the original Honda batteries, and are about $70.  Free shipping on orders over $75, so order an air filter/ spark plugs etc to get free shipping.

 

I've started keeping a couple of new ones on hand.  They ship dry with the acid in a separate container, and you add the acid when you're ready to use, so I can keep "new" batteries on the shelf for years and when I need one, I have a "new" battery ready to go.

 

Thanks for posting up what  you found.  Hopefully will help someone in the future with the same/similar issues.

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The Yuasa in it shows to be a 6.0ah battery. Any chance they make a larger capacity battery that’s the same

size.  6ah is pretty small and if you ask me is not a cranking battery, normally cranking batteries are measured in CA or CCA not amp hours. 
 

Wayne

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Ended up ordered a new Honda ignition switch and a 12ah/235CCA AGM battery that’s the same dimensions as the one I removed. Thanks fellas!

 

Wayne

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What battery did you get?

 

The Yuasa's have lasted longer than anything else I've tried, including those "Big Crank" batteries that were pricier.

 

 

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

What battery did you get?

 

The Yuasa's have lasted longer than anything else I've tried, including those "Big Crank" batteries that were pricier.

 

 


Normally I always buy OEM but based off 5200 reviews I decided to try this one out. I did order a Honda ignition switch though. C89C0C0E-B704-469B-8521-C099908463B2.png

Edited by Z7What

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I bought cheapies for a while, when they were $25-30 they were worth it even if they only lasted a couple of years.

 

I started buying the Yuasas because I can get them dry and store them, and the cheapies went up north of $40.  I can get 6-7 years out of a Yuasa if I keep them on a tender.

 

The last few cheap batts I've bought haven't lasted much past a year.

 

I actually bought one of those Weize batts on ebay in March of 2020.  It's still holding up, but it's on the wife's 420 which probably hasn't been ridden 2-3 times in the last year.  I do keep it on a tender.

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Posted (edited)

We do have power run inside the sea can at the camp so I may just have to keep mine on a tinder because between January and October it may only get used once or twice. The OEM battery was great, it could sit 5-6 months and still crank without it being in a tinder. If the first time I try to crank it after sitting for 4-6 months and it’s dead I’ll toss it and get another Yuasas battery. 

Edited by Z7What
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