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Ok so I have a 2016 rubicon trx500 and my 4wd isn't working all of a sudden. When I push the button it doesnt show on my screen either. I've checked: all fuses, the diodes, all the wires, the 4wd switch, all relays, ran continuity on the connections, says there's an open circuit on the black and green wire, I took off the actuator put a 12v battery to it and it works so I'm don't think it's the actuator but no power to the actuator when on the 4wheeler. Someone please help me figure this out.....I'm stumped!!!!

 

Thanks 😊 

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i moved your post here ashley83, and please do not post more than one post, you only need one post to get answers here. could you please tell us the full make/model of your atv ?, there is like 7 or more versions of the rubi !..lol.

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1 hour ago, shadetree said:

i moved your post here ashley83, and please do not post more than one post, you only need one post to get answers here. could you please tell us the full make/model of your atv ?, there is like 7 or more versions of the rubi !..lol.

Ok thanks I'm still learning this chat website I did not purposely mean to post my message more then once I just couldn't find the 1st one so I posted it again thinking I had originally did something wrong for it not to show up so I apologize for that and u said u moved my post here....where is here lol and do I continue posting things here??? Hopefully I'll learn this as I go. Thank u for responding and moving my post to where it's suppose to be🙂

4wheeler is:

2016 Honda

TRX500FA7

4x4 AT Deluxe

I'm thinking it might be the ecm ecu?!?!

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Welcome aboard.   Don't jump at the ECU yet, as problems like this are usually a bad/corroded connection somewhere in the harness.

 

Go to the factory service manual button at the top of the page in the toolbar, and click on it.  Pull up the service manuals, choose Honda and Utility Quads.

 

Then go to the Foreman 500 ES FM etc and pull up the 2014-2016 manual.

 

Then go to section 21.  It will give you step by step troubleshooting directions on your front diff.

 

I'm not really familiar with the newer machines, but hopefully the troubleshooting steps in the factory service manual can steer you in the right direction.

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Attached is a PDF of the wiring diagram page for reference. As jeepwm69 said, generally a wire that tests open continuity turns out to be an open connection at a harness connector plug due to water entry/corrosion of the pins inside the connector. So if you haven't yet.... with the ignition key turned off, unplug the 33p Green plastic connector plug at the PCM and unplug the 10p Green plastic connector from the Diff lock actuator. Test for continuity through the BL/G wire between each plastic harness connector that you have unplugged. If continuity tests good then you likely have a bad connection in one of those connectors while it was plugged in.... sometimes just plugging everything back in fixes it. But if it tests open then the wire is damaged/broken somewhere along its length between each connector.

 

Note that the pins inside of the 33p PCM connector are tiny and bend easily. So while unplugging them - and while plugging those connectors back together after tests, make sure that you hold the connector straight in relation to it's socket and push/pull them straight in/out. They aren't easy to plug in, it takes some force... If you attempt to plug a connector back in while its cocked a bit in relation to its socket the pins in the PCM can be damaged - and then ya got yourself a big problem.... Be careful.

 

Also before plugging those connectors back in, apply some dielectric grease to them, which waterproofs them. The factory does not use dielectric grease on connectors, thats why water gets inside them to cause poor connection problems.

 

Let us know how it goes.

2016-FA7-wiring.pdf

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