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Wolf

TRX420FM 2007 no spark

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14 hours ago, Wolf said:

Do any of you know how to open the grey P33 ECU connector apart to be able to inspect and repalce a pion? wolf

Now you're getting into the "professional" electric work.

 

I'm a "snip and bypass" type guy. 

 

Let's see if we can get @Melatv to chime in, or maybe @retro

 

The TP (throttle position) sensor is on the side of the throttle body/"carb" assembly.

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1 hour ago, jeepwm69 said:

Now you're getting into the "professional" electric work.

 

I'm a "snip and bypass" type guy. 

 

Let's see if we can get @Melatv to chime in, or maybe @retro

 

The TP (throttle position) sensor is on the side of the throttle body/"carb" assembly.

 

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I pushed the g/y wire into the grey connecter by about 4mm and low and behold I got continuity back to the coil area of that wire. So this is a problem.  How to fix it permanently is the next project.  Tracking down unconnected wires is quite a challenge and really time consuming. I am hopeful that this find will solve my no spark issue.  Wolf 

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1 hour ago, Wolf said:

I pushed the g/y wire into the grey connecter by about 4mm and low and behold I got continuity back to the coil area of that wire. So this is a problem.  How to fix it permanently is the next project.  Tracking down unconnected wires is quite a challenge and really time consuming. I am hopeful that this find will solve my no spark issue.  Wolf 

 

Get some CRC contact cleaner and hose those connections out really well. 

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I was procrastinating to see if I actually had spark or not; primarily because I had no next step idea or plan should I fail again. So today I finally verified that indeed we have spark! One, one frigging wire was the problem after all! Looking at the B11 connector all looked OK until you did a continuity test which failed. The most helpful diagram was not the wiring diagram ( which is virtually impossible to read on a computer screen) but a diagram in the "fuel" section in Chapter 6 page 8 that listed 19 of the 33 "B" pins on the P33 grey CDI connector. I tried to copy that page but was not able too. It identified the pin number and its function. B11 is identified as "ignition" . Stuffing the G/Y back into the connector is not a permanent fix. I am looking to buy the P33 Sumitomo connector to learn how to take it appart. There is no on line video of that specific connector. I tested each of the 33 pins for volatge first, then resitance on the remaing pins and finally ground on the pins with no volatge or resistance.  This list is not complete I am sure BUT pins 1,19, 21 and 33 had battery voltage, pins 10,13 22 has resitance. I never got any good other readinds on the remaining pins. I assume they get input from various sensors when the engine is running. Well now on to putting everything cack where it belongs. I hope some of my post will be of help to others. wolf

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21 hours ago, Wolf said:

I was procrastinating to see if I actually had spark or not; primarily because I had no next step idea or plan should I fail again. So today I finally verified that indeed we have spark! One, one frigging wire was the problem after all! Looking at the B11 connector all looked OK until you did a continuity test which failed. The most helpful diagram was not the wiring diagram ( which is virtually impossible to read on a computer screen) but a diagram in the "fuel" section in Chapter 6 page 8 that listed 19 of the 33 "B" pins on the P33 grey CDI connector. I tried to copy that page but was not able too. It identified the pin number and its function. B11 is identified as "ignition" . Stuffing the G/Y back into the connector is not a permanent fix. I am looking to buy the P33 Sumitomo connector to learn how to take it appart. There is no on line video of that specific connector. I tested each of the 33 pins for volatge first, then resitance on the remaing pins and finally ground on the pins with no volatge or resistance.  This list is not complete I am sure BUT pins 1,19, 21 and 33 had battery voltage, pins 10,13 22 has resitance. I never got any good other readinds on the remaining pins. I assume they get input from various sensors when the engine is running. Well now on to putting everything cack where it belongs. I hope some of my post will be of help to others. wolf

 

First off, glad you found it.  I likely would have thrown a used wiring harness at it before I had the patience to find the problem.

 

Thanks very much for posting up what you found too.  The biggest benefit of the forums vs Facebook groups is threads like this are much easier to find and read, whereas when something like this gets posted to social media, it disappears or is hard to find using search engines.  Hopefully your thread will help someone else with similar issues in the future.

 

Now, when you figure out how to redo that pin, let us know!  I guess one option would be to get a connector off of a junk wiring harness and splice all those wires a little ways away from the connector. 

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