Patrik 3 Posted January 12 Resistance between red & black are 5 ohms Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 792 Posted January 12 Do this unplug the Key Switch -- on the connector side jumper the Red & Black wires together -- check the voltage on the ign. fuse Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 792 Posted January 12 Hi: Check this -- go to my post 6.57 PM look at the 2nd picture bottom right hand unplug the 2 small connectors Diode & Condenser check voltage on both red wires --what did you find? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patrik 3 Posted January 13 In the plug to the condenser I get around 5v. the R & RB is going to the small rectifier and there I have 0V. Not sure what you mean with diode, the only diode I have there is taped in to the harness, shall I take off the tejp? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patrik 3 Posted January 13 The 7 V I have on the red wire at ignition key is coming from the condenser, when that one is unplugged I get 0V Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patrik 3 Posted January 13 I have 12,5V on all red wires on the 14p connector to the relay harness Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patrik 3 Posted January 13 (edited) .From main fuse R/BB goes thru the brake switch to R, can a bad brake switch be the problem? Can I jump R/B & R at the brake switch to test? Edited January 13 by Patrik Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patrik 3 Posted January 13 Its fixed, I'm an idiot, I had connected the brake switch into the RB/R going into the small rectifier connector. Sorry for taking up your time but I appreciate all support. I thing these 2 connectors are the only ones with the exact same size 😀 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,884 Posted January 13 3 hours ago, Patrik said: Its fixed, I'm an idiot, I had connected the brake switch into the RB/R going into the small rectifier connector. Sorry for taking up your time but I appreciate all support. I thing these 2 connectors are the only ones with the exact same size 😀 lol...trust me..you are not the first..and deff wont be the last to do stupid things ?..most of us has been there...done that !..lol. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted January 13 8 hours ago, Patrik said: I thing these 2 connectors are the only ones with the exact same size That's a rotten trick eh! Glad that you got it fixed! Make sure to replace those relays with OEM parts to avoid certain catastrophic failure soon. @Melatv, good to see you again, thanks for jumping in, hope all is well and you're staying warm! Arctic air is forecast for ya as the next week progresses. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 792 Posted January 13 Hi Patrik: Good to see you fixed the problem -- here is something you may already know about the Pull start Pull start TRX420 The pull start on my TRX 420 auto/es - EFI-- Has a pull start kit that came with a new harness, condenser, rectifier (diode) and relay. It will not start on a dead battery or battery disconnected. It also states with the instructions that the pull start is only to be used to start the engine when the battery is low. So in my case the pull start is no good to me if the battery is dead and they can fail when needed. So I carry a booster pack I did some testing on my TRX 420 before – This is what I have found as soon as the key is turn on the console lamps discharged the condenser right away, before I could pull the pull start. Also check the system out and found that the condenser has to power the following. Engine stop relay Fuel pump relay to start fuel pump Fuel injector Ignition coil Light up console lamps 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patrik 3 Posted January 13 Thanks for the info, it’s a few things to power up for the condenser! New relays are ordered and from now on there will only be oem. have a fantastic weekend guys! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
