2001 foreman 450 crank, no start no spark

[shrek18 8]

So I'm following this step in the manual currently. I don't have continuity from any of these 3 at the 5 pin connector back to the ICM yellow to the generator side. I do have continuity between 1 of the yellows on the harness side to the ICM yellow tho 

[shrek18 8]

No no no it was installed at the dealer when it went there for transmission issues. They couldn't diagnose or fix it but for $800 they changed out the switch...  it better be oem for the money they charged him 

Edited March 29 by shrek18
Add pic

[shrek18 8]

I checked continuity between all three yellows and have continuity with 0.3-0.2 ohms between them

Edited March 29 by shrek18
Double replied

[shadetree 5,869]

3 minutes ago, shrek18 said:

So I'm following this step in the manual currently. I don't have continuity from any of these 3 at the 5 pin connector back to the ICM yellow to the generator side. I do have continuity between 1 of the yellows on the harness side to the ICM yellow tho 

here's an easy way to test stator..first..toss that manual for now..lol. unplug the stator from wire harness, with multimeter set to ohms, probe two yellow wire connectors on stator side, then move one probe to the next yellow connector on stator side ( plug )..do all 3, your looking for anything around 7 ohms, no more than 9, then leave red lead in each yellow wire connector, then probe black lead to case.engine..you should have zero numbers on meter. be sure to move red probe to all 3 wires on stator plug side while grounding black probe.  if you have any numbers at all when doing this ?..then stator has a open circuit.

[shrek18 8]

I get 0 going from any yellow wire to ground but between them it starts off around 1.5 to 2 ohms then comes down to 0.2

[shadetree 5,869]

6 minutes ago, shrek18 said:

I get 0 going from any yellow wire to ground but between them it starts off around 1.5 to 2 ohms then comes down to 0.2

those numbers are low, but not high.

[shadetree 5,869]

have you tried new c.d.i., unscrewing plug boot...check for spark off engine ?.

[shrek18 8]

So at this point I have replaced the regulator, ignition control module, coil, spark plug and the stop switch was replaced prior. Where's the cdi located? 

[shrek18 8]

No spark with boot removed

[shrek18 8]

I have just verified the stop switch is working correctly. It rings out in the center position and breaks when switched left or right of center.

[shrek18 8]

So at this point I'm torn. After checking for peak voltage at the coil and only getting 5v and 100v min, then at the ICM plug i had .52v with a min of .7 and then at the 5p generator plug I had .75v with 0.7 v min. I'm just barely at the bottom threshold at the generator plug. I'm having a hard time thinking it's a bad wire in the harness but I'm open to ideas... what's your thoughts?

[AKATV 822]

EDIT

(Sorry I was not clear if you replaced CDI, I now see you had said ignition control module earlier,

If you still have original CDI, put it back in and try below)

 

Here ""wack a mole way, but worth a shot

Try rapping pretty good on CDI with with handle of screwdriver or similar  while cranking, if you get an intermittent spark then you most likely have faulty CDI due to bad/cracked internal solder joints,which is common on the CDI and the fan controller as well (20 years of heat and vibration)

 If so, you might get away with baking CDI @ 450 for 7-8 minutes

Let us know

-AKATV

Edited March 29 by AKATV

[shrek18 8]

16 minutes ago, AKATV said:

EDIT

(Sorry I was not clear if you replaced CDI, I now see you had said ignition control module earlier,

If you still have original CDI, put it back in and try below)

 

Here ""wack a mole way, but worth a shot

Try rapping pretty good on CDI with with handle of screwdriver or similar  while cranking, if you get an intermittent spark then you most likely have faulty CDI due to bad/cracked internal solder joints,which is common on the CDI and the fan controller as well (20 years of heat and vibration)

 If so, you might get away with baking CDI @ 450 for 7-8 minutes

Let us know

-AKATV

So I'm not seeing a CDI anywhere. On the wire diagram I only see a ignition control module..? On the ignition schematic it says ICM but in the main wiring diagram it says CDI color coded wires match up so I'm guessing the terms are fluid. Side note I did just try tapping the new icm while crank and it flashed on my spark tester! 

[shrek18 8]

29 minutes ago, AKATV said:

EDIT

(Sorry I was not clear if you replaced CDI, I now see you had said ignition control module earlier,

If you still have original CDI, put it back in and try below)

 

Here ""wack a mole way, but worth a shot

Try rapping pretty good on CDI with with handle of screwdriver or similar  while cranking, if you get an intermittent spark then you most likely have faulty CDI due to bad/cracked internal solder joints,which is common on the CDI and the fan controller as well (20 years of heat and vibration)

 If so, you might get away with baking CDI @ 450 for 7-8 minutes

Let us know

-AKATV

So I did this test and the old CDI did nothing while tapping it. The new one would have a weak flash at first crank then as I tapped it I could get it to flash for 1 or 2 times. Off to the oven I go !

[AKATV 822]

Really should try baking the old one

The new one, if its Honda  OEM, should not have an issue I would think

and I definately would not try putting Amazon China parts in the oven

Let us know how it goes

-AKATV

Edited March 29 by AKATV

[shrek18 8]

Well the new one would only flash when I hit it. The old one didn't flash at all. Stand by, I'm getting my apron and chefs hat on

[AKATV 822]

you can put it on a piece of foil or pie tin with plug facing up

open door when done and let cool to touch before moving it

[shadetree 5,869]

56 minutes ago, shrek18 said:

Well the new one would only flash when I hit it. The old one didn't flash at all. Stand by, I'm getting my apron and chefs hat on

this tells me your c.d.i. is the problem. old c.d.i. is bad. sounds like this '' new '' c.d.i. is a after market c.d.i. ?..when you purchased it, were you sure it was for the correct year, make, model for what you have ?. anytime you get a intermittent spark ?..this is a dead give away that the c.d.i. is bad. for the record, the c.d.i. is the ignition control module.

[shrek18 8]

So the oven trick didn't work. And tapping on the new one doesn't do anything either. I could never actually see spark at the plug only in my tester. I'm still wondering if it's the ignition pulse generator since the voltage values were so low. EVERYTHING that's been bought for this with the exception of the coil. Is OEM Honda. Not saying that there's never been a new electronic part bad out of the box but they were sealed when I received them. 

[AKATV 822]

They are most likely good then if they are OEM Honda
I wonder if you’re possibly not getting a good ground signal from your gear position switch for neutral to the CDI

I know your green neutral light is coming on. Let me look at the wiring diagram and see if there’s a way to ground that wire closer to the CDI or directly at the CDI

-AKATV

Edited March 29 by AKATV

[AKATV 822]

Can you check to make sure you have ground signal at the light green/red wire at the CDI with it in neutral

(beep/ohm test with multimeter from from frame/neg bat to light green/red wire

I would suspect its good if LED comes on, but CDI wont fire without the ground signal so it worth checking

make sure pins are good inside as well, might not be touching or pin could be retracted in plug

(have you checked IGN fuse?lol)

-AKATV

Edited March 29 by AKATV

[shrek18 8]

It had a good ground last night. The pins all looked fine and undamaged 

[shadetree 5,869]

4 hours ago, shrek18 said:

So the oven trick didn't work. And tapping on the new one doesn't do anything either. I could never actually see spark at the plug only in my tester. I'm still wondering if it's the ignition pulse generator since the voltage values were so low. EVERYTHING that's been bought for this with the exception of the coil. Is OEM Honda. Not saying that there's never been a new electronic part bad out of the box but they were sealed when I received them. 

i can't make out the part numbers on that c.d.i. bag ?, what does it read ?.

[shrek18 8]

Part #

30410-HN0-A01

[shrek18 8]

5 hours ago, AKATV said:

Can you check to make sure you have ground signal at the light green/red wire at the CDI with it in neutral

(beep/ohm test with multimeter from from frame/neg bat to light green/red wire

I would suspect its good if LED comes on, but CDI wont fire without the ground signal so it worth checking

make sure pins are good inside as well, might not be touching or pin could be retracted in plug

(have you checked IGN fuse?lol)

-AKATV

I went ahead and checked the pins again and they looked OK bit I shaped them a bitbfor better contact. The ign fuse is good lol. I also took my power probe and grounded the grn/WHT out of the ICM and it made no difference.