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TRX Student

1999 Foreman 450s Rebuild

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Hey guys,

 

on the the old forum I had started on a thread on this machine, mostly asking for help with wiring and a mysterious draw.

 

I finished up the 300 for the most part and am now trying to finish the 450.

 

At first I thought there was a draw on the battery, but now I’m certain it’s just not charging. 

 

Id like some help/instructions on how to test the stator and regulator/rectifier. I have the instruction manual, but don’t know how to test for continuity/resistance on my

multimeter .

Things I’ve done on this machine:

replaced rear end with new used one,

saved the tires

painted wheels

new carb

 new airfilter

oil change

painted parts of the frame

painted racks

converted the headlights to led

 

things i need to do:

 

figure out charging system 

ball joints

finish lights

test fan system

clean up plastics

plastic supports

reinstall winch

skidplate

route brake cables and reverse cable

For the record, I do have a used 450es stator on hand incase I have a bad stator.

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You say you think it is not charging , then hook the positive and negative of your meter to the battery on dc/volts and you should read 12-12.5 , crank the engine and you should read 13.5 -14.5 

 

what's up with that plug being replaced with crimp terminals , you done that or the P.O. , seems something went wrong there before and maybe melted the old plug ?? 

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I’ve got a new battery on its way in the mail. When I tested the machine running today with a not fully charged booster pack the multimeter read 12.36 (which was the reading on the pack itself) and slowly descended to 12.34 while idling. I did not rev it.

The crimps were already there, from PO.

I had a china regulator but switched it back to the one that came with the atv, which I think is original. I’ve read enough now to stay away from China stuff when it comes to electronics.

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I have a parts 450es with a plug and rectifier (I already robbed the stator) that I will use to sort out to get rid of the crimpage. Just can’t do it until I return to the south (southern Canada).

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China copy. I’m not actually sure if it is from China, but before I got on the forums, maybe two years ago, I remember ordering this because it was the cheapest I could find on eBay. I’ve learned this is a recipe for disaster from reading threads.

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@Fishfiles

closer inspection, I don’t think there was any melting here. Maybe just broke? The plastics were all sewn together with string instead of plastic rivets...so PO was a diy kind of guy, and not terribly worried about longevity.

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Shooting in the dark: I also visually inspected the fuses in the fuse box and the large 30a(?) fuse, I did not see any blackening, burnt, or severed fuses.

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3 hours ago, TRX Student said:

@Fishfiles

closer inspection, I don’t think there was any melting here. Maybe just broke? The plastics were all sewn together with string instead of plastic rivets...so PO was a diy kind of guy, and not terribly worried about longevity.

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Wonder if the P.O. got the right wire in the right place !!!  Maybe they are now , but during placement of said wires the first time he tried , it didn't go well if you catch my drift 

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Posted (edited)
1 minute ago, Fishfiles said:

Wonder if the P.O. got the right wire in the right place !!!  Maybe they are now , but during placement of said wires the first time he tried , it didn't go well if you catch my drift 

Would that result in cooking the stator?

When I took off the stator from the es , with motor still in frame, I remember it being pretty annoying. Kinda dreading having to replace this one, but also kinda expecting that’s what I have to do.

Edited by TRX Student

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I started working on repairing the air filter , then decided to swap a nicer pull start, now I’m here and figure I ‘might as well’ ( @jeepwm69) swap stators.

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Quick question , taking the stator, I found what looks like wire debris under this top bolt. Is this also a ground? Behind the starter.

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Finally did the grownup thing and YouTubed how to check for continuity. When I touch the multi leads together they beep. 

Testing the crimped wires at the regulator/rectifier there is no beep, and no reading, between green and all the yellows.

I also tested continuity on the regulator/rectifier and get readings for 2/3 between yellows and green at .517

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Posted (edited)

At the stator 5 wire round plug, all the yellow wires beep and read at .001.

I also have no continuity between red and green at the regulator .

edit: I assumed green was ground, but now see it is not.

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Edited by TRX Student

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I was getting very confused with the readings and what to test. I decided to start comparing tests between the stator on the machine and the extra I have, and the old regulator on the machine, and the China(?) copy I have. Everything tested out the same except for one yellow wire contact on the regulator.

I decided to swap the regulator just to see. Low and behold system is charging properly. (Ignore the-)

 

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