Melatv

Hi: Code 22 Shift angle sensor

Hi: They come in !2 mm and 9/16" -- those maybe mm

Hi: There is a snap ring in there

Hi: Big Welcome Here -- t

Here is something I made up for testing the rectifier. If anyone want to add to this do so.

You have the battery connected and terminals tight? Meter is on DC scale.

2 hours ago, Tobor1 said:

Still wondering why the fuse ins no longer blowing with bad ecu plugged in ?

It must have burn itself free from the ground inside -- will the bike shift now?

Hi: The only thing I can think of is the P/G & P/W in sync with each other feeding the PCM

Hi: I can't find a Pink with a Gray tracer wire 

Hi: Thank you for the continuity test on the pins --- there should be no continuity between pin 1 & pin 5, that's what caused the main 1 30 amp fuse to blow. Pin 1 is connected the 30 amp fuse -- pin 5 is the ground side for the Fan  -- so some how pin 1 & pin 5 are shorted together inside the PCM -- you done well as a apprentice --- great working with you

I am confused

Do have continuity from pin 1 to pin 2

Do have continuity from pin 1 to pin 3

Do have continuity from pin 1 to pin 4

Do have continuity from pin 1 to pin 5

11 hours ago, Melatv said:

Hi: Would do this for me when you have a chance.

Check the continuity on the 5 pin connector as shown --- leave one meter lead on pin 1 at all times. Yes for continuity --- No for no continuity.

1 to 2 = 

1 to 3 =

1 to 4 =

1 to 5 =

If you still have the PCM could you do this test for me

Hi: Would do this for me when you have a chance.

Check the continuity on the 5 pin connector as shown --- leave one meter lead on pin 1 at all times. Yes for continuity --- No for no continuity.

1 to 2 = 

1 to 3 =

1 to 4 =

1 to 5 =

Good to hear things went okay for you -- pace yourself cleaning up around 

Hi: Check for continuity between the 2 spots in the red -- should be no continuity 

I as well been watching the News of the storm down there -- it looks like a long wait before power will be restored to some people -- hope everyone gets back on their feet soon -- be safe

16 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

The wife and I just got back from taking a ride looking  for non-ethanal gas , all sold out , the lines for ethanal gas are 10 cars deep in each lane ,  going to wait till tomorrow on the non-ethanal , the price for regular right now is $2.71  -----cases of water were limit 2 , there was about 10 cases left , bread is wiped out 

You wouldn't like filling up here where I live --- regular is $6 a gal. --- non-ethanal is $6.129 a gal.

Stay safe done there with the storm 

Yes

What ever it was or is -- has to be connected to the main 1 30 amp fuse. Key doesn't have to be on when the fuse blows

Replace the 30 amp 

Leave your test light in place and start plugging things back in noting when the light gets brighter -- key off at all times

Leaving the cam-am for now ---- Let's start with is there any wiring on this bike that's been added like hand warmers, lights, winch and so on.

Key off -- make sure your test light works -- place your test light into the 2 slots where the 30 amp main 1 fuse goes -- the light should not light up. Does it?

I am busy working on a can-am now --will get back to you

.32 is good

From the Right side of the use holder to the R/W wire on the 5 pin connector should read zero.  Un tape the wires at the fuse box and see what going on there. see which wire is getting hot.