walhonding300

I was seeing that a lot also. I just haven't been able to pin point the problem, even if there really is one.

So what everyone is saying is my issues are bigger then the steering lol... I've always been a Ford guy. This is the first Chevy I have owned and I do like the truck. If it were traditional power steering I would know more of what I am feeling. The electric is just new to me. Maybe its fine or normal for a truck with a few miles like this one?

After atv's, I am assuming the folks here know a lot about trucks also lol... I have a 2015 Silverado with the electric steering. The steering seems, recently, to be softer. Maybe the smallest amount of play but it does have 128,000 miles. Everything under the truck is still tight and it still tracks pretty straight. The tires are old and I do need new ones. I have no experience with the electric steering so I do not know how aging would feel with it. Maybe an alignment but if it drifts in the slightest, it is not specific to one side. Any input would be appreciated.

First fire of the season. Probably going to light it for good this weekend.

Caught jigging while trolling for walleye on the St. Mary's river off of Sugar Island. Nothing to brag about I'd be happy to catch pike all day long.

Wilson. Yes that machine come with turn-buckle style anti sway bars. I keep them very tight also. Even though its small, they can sway enough to jump the tractor side to side if they are too loose. And yes, WH is just fine. It's a Massey Ferguson GC 2400. It's actually made for Massey by Iseki. They make great small diesel tractors. They aren't as popular as John Deere or Kubota, but the reviews on them were great and I have had zero complaints. They are a bit cheaper then the green and orange ones lol

Thank you. The bar is left from when the carry-all was a rear blade. I left it for strength to drag logs. I was concerned at first about it getting in the way, but really hasn't been an issue. And yes, I welded a 2" receiver so I can move my splitter and trailers around with it. I have a plan to buy a winch (around 3500# from Rural King or Harbor Frieght) and mount it to a removable bracket. I can use it to drag logs with the tractor or use it on the 300.

Yes, it will be a tough day in our house lol

Well now you're making my wood shed look bad turbo lol. It's 3 10x10 bays. Each holds about 4 cords and the last is enclosed. I keep the log splitter and other junk I don't want in the garage in that bay. I made the pickeroon. It has a 16" hatchet handle on it. I like the shorter one because I'm tall and can reach most piece in the bed of my truck with it. But because its short, I can stick it in a round, grab another with my 1 hand log tongs and carry 2 rounds at once. The carry-all is made from a scraped 5' blade (the blade was all mangled but the bracket was fine). It doubles as a log skidder. I have been impressed with what my little Massey GC tractor can pull. My property is pretty steep so the tractor struggles in the winter and the wet. That's where the 300 is going to come in. I have plans to make front and rear boxes for the honda.

Here are a few pictures I had on my phone. I can take more later. This is the 5lb Council Tool splitting ax. Like with all tools, there are some things it thrives at splitting and others you need a different tool for. I also have the Council Tool 2lb Hudsun bay camp ax on 18" handle. Its a very usefully. The 10 year old is a great tool to have!

Thank you Kipes...

I have been a lifelong Browns fan. It is really hard being miserable every Sunday. I have a 10 year old son that plays QB. Being from the 740 area code, being a fan of his community outreaches, and a fan of his attitude towards the game, 740 Joe has been doing a really good job of making us cheer for the Bengals. He's hard not to root for.

OK you're up there a bit further. We are over by Rudyard in Chippewa County. Do you happen to ride in that area at all? Are there any good resources for me with info for the UP? Thanks in advance.

Even though it's "faux," its still a great look. The square body Fords are old enough that it works well on that truck.

I assume that one was "ruffed up" intentionally. I am more referencing an old truck that is already ruff and rusty.

+10 for the Fiskers. I also recommend the new Council Tool 5# splitting axe. It's around $70. American made and high quality for the price. I have purchased 2 Council Tool tools and recommend both of them.

Kipes... Without being any more specific then you want to be, where in the UP are you located? I am only asking because I have a hunting camp in the UP and would like to start using it as a base camp for atv trail riding up there.

Being ignorant to these type of things, I am assuming that it is just cleaned up really well, some form of stabilization is done to the rust, and then it's clear coated. Am I correct in that?

My new favorite trend in the classic car world is the patina look. One of my goals is to find a 70s F series truck or 70s model Jeep and redo it myself. I would love to leave that patina look. It took a lot of time to make a truck look like it was actually a truck.

I understand this is an old thread but wouldn't mind throwing in... I really liked the original Bighorns I had on my 2006 Sportsman. In 12 years, they wore very little and I used them in just about all forms of riding. Never really a lot of true deep mudding or deep snow, but they were the perfect tire for all around use. They were heavy though. I put a set of Bear Claws on my old 1995 Bayou 220. For the price and weight, they are really impressive. I can't believe what that little machine did with those on the rear. The 1998 300FW I just bought came with a set of Wanda Bighorn knock-offs. They are about 50% worn. My local tire shop carries the wandas and bear claws. I have no interest in changing tires size. For just hauling some firewood, the boy driving it around and some joy riding, I won't need anything crazy. I would run stock size Bighorns if I found a set cheap enough.

100% what I am looking for guys. Thanks

Thank you very much. It's greatly appreciated. It looks like that's something I can handle making. Going to incorporate the existing pegs.

Just a slip up at the end of the day. 7 hours of dealing with teenagers can do that to you lol. If anyone has them, would someone mind taking a few up close pictures of the metal footboards? I’d like to see how they’re attached and what the clearances are like around the pedals. It would be greatly appreciated.

I like the conversion kit idea. Looks like it might be a little more than I want to spend on brake work right now since the brakes still work, just not as good as disc. Maybe I will plan on keeping my eyes open for the used 420 brake option and replace them as I can find them. If I find them, I will be asking on how to adapt those ball joints. Even if the rear were disc, it would be a significant improvement. I know no one is a big fan of Chinese replacement parts, me included. but... Is there any reason why I couldn't buy the cheaper 420 brake parts on ebay to upgrade my brakes to disc? I know they are not the quality of oem or super atv, but they have to still be an improvement on anything that is drum. Just spitballin'

Yes clutch cable. I was out of it when I typed that I guess. I do have the front rack and bumper. I took them off to wire wheel and paint them. I am using black tractor enamel on the racks and Rustoleum truck bed liner on the bumper. I plan on using the bed liner on the frame and pegs. I do not plan on ripping the entire thing apart to paint the frame. Just as I work on other things, like replacing the front drive shafts, I will tape off anything I need to. Then just spray it as needed. I like the bed liner because it durable, self levels, fills voids and sticks really well with just a little rough up. The rustoleum stuff also is not overly thick and gritty. I also plan on cleaning the rims up and painting, but not sure what color I want them or what paint I want to use yet. The rest of the list... - Change all fluids again. I have done it once but wanted to run it a bit to flush them out. - 2500 or 3500# Winch - Uni Filter - Replace front axles. Both have torn boots - Replace brake pads. Although, I am interested in the disc conversion. If I am understanding correctly, I can put a ranchers disc brakes on it? - Fabricate a full rear swing arm skid plate. Both of the originals are pretty rough. I have the steel and the ability, so I think I will just make one full plate to replace both. - Fabricate a set of nerf bars. I see pictures of 300s with the full metal nerf bars around the foot pegs and I like them. Again, I have the metal and the ability so why not. - Fabricate hand guards. - Replace head lights with LEDs. I am sure I will come up with more, but for now, it's runs very well. It's going to get used and if I just tear into doing a bunch of different projects on it, we wouldn't be able to ride it. I am also 100% open to input and advice.