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TrxPipUK

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Posts posted by TrxPipUK

  2. Posted

    On 3/10/2021 at 1:52 PM, Goober said:

    Hey Pip

    Oh jeez let’s get back to the carb discussion, LOLs

    i have been tuning a problem 87 TRX350A carb—same carb and engine as you. Random stumbling and fouling plugs. I think my problem is the oring at the base of the intake insulator. I have to nearly close off the pilot jet to get it to run; and then engine dies when i try to push on the carb intake tube.
    Does yours do the same thing? Stumble when you jostle the carb?

     

    Hey Goober...

    Thanks for that! That does sound very similar to my issue apart from my problem turned out to be the fuel pump in the end. I ended up replacing the pump and that solved all the problems. I think my original problem with it running rich was that the old pump never shut off when the carb was full, therefore fuel was being forced through the carb some how and resulting in it running rich. 

     

    With that all fixed for the last month or so, I've had the old girl out for a few rides. Had her out in the snow at the start of February. 

    There's a couple things left to do such as getting the front racks blasted and painted, need to get some lights for in the front there, and I think she needs some new front shocks as these ones are very saggy lol. 

     

    Once again thankyou all so much for you're help. Literally couldn't have done it without you all. 

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    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  3. Posted

    Hi everyone. Sorry for being so in active, been kinda busy lately. 

     

    Just read what @Howols has said there and thinking maybe a new choke valve plunger is what I need next. I think something must be up with the choke because it still doesn't shut off when the pilot screw is seated. 

     

    If the pump is just constantly pumping then surely that would just mean the carb would overflow and not effect the the amount of fuel going to the engine at all. 

     

    The next step I think will be getting the choke valve out, check that rubber seal at the bottom and get a few pictures for you guys to have a look at. 

     

    On 1/11/2021 at 2:26 PM, Fishfiles said:

    does that enrichment valve that you installed a new seal on , slide smoothly , but snug into the carb and not wiggling around in there ?  maybe buy a new one with the seal already installed ----you got a pic of that enrichment valve with the new seal in place ? 

    Yes it all moves nicely fish. I'll get a pic or two when I get a minute. 

     

    Thanks all

  4. Posted

    Thanks guys! Sounding to me like the best option here would be to get a new pump. Is it a really bad idea to get a Chinese pump and see if it solves the problem with that? Then it definitely tells me it's the pump issue and not the carb or whatever. And if it's not the pump then I've only wasted £15.

    I know it's never good to get Chinese made crap but for test purposes? 

     

    22 hours ago, Goober said:

    As I recall you said when you turned the pilot screw until it seated, the engine stayed running. Is this still so?

     

    did you replace the choke valve?

     

     

    Yes that was the case. I haven't tried seating it in all the way again but at the moment its only one turn out and still rich. 

    Is the choke valve the metal piece with the sharp needle on the end on the choke cable? No I haven't replaced this but it does have a fresh seal on. 

  5. Posted

    Thanks @retro really appreciate it.

    I'll check it all out and look into it. A new oem pump here is £160.. ouch lol. That's a lot.. 

     

    On 1/6/2021 at 9:19 PM, retro said:

    I would add an aftermarket  pressure switch to the outlet

    How would I go about adding a pressure switch? What kind of thing do I need to look for? 

  6. Posted

    1 hour ago, _Wilson_™ said:

    looks on the rich side, but clean the plug, and try it again,and your correct the fuel pump should not be pulsing all the time, unless the tank is about empty, or is empty.... it should pulse every fews seconds ..... if working correctly 

    Okay. I'm fairly positive that it doesn't do this. How is the pulsing controlled and how does the pump know what to do?

  7. Posted

    Hi guys.

     

    Got it running again. Think I must have flooded it yesterday some how. 

     

    It is however still running quite rich... I'm thinking that there might be an issue with the fuel cut off relay not telling the pump to shut off when the carb is full as the pump is always on. I don't know if the pump is meant to shut off now and then so the carb gets just enough fuel or what? Could the pump being on all the time mean that it's always just pushing way too much fuel through the carb? 

    Just a thought, probably silly one lol

     

    What does the fuel cut off relay actually do in terms of how it controls the pump? 

     

    Thanks 

     

    Pic of the spark plug. What do you think about the colour? Look okay or too black? Looks pretty black to me

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  8. Posted

    18 minutes ago, shadetree said:

    fuel pump oem ?, fuel pump getting enough fuel ?, fuel cut-off relay working ?. air filter new ?. these carbs MUST have a restriction in order to get the correct amount of fuel to the intake. try removing the fuel line from carb/pump, attach a short line in its place, fill the carb up until line is full, crank it over, if it fires and runs this way ?, this is a fuel delivery issue, if it does not ?, then its an engine problem, maybe spark ?. I do know this...if the fan control unit is bad ?, it will not spark correctly !.

    Hmm okay... I'll try that filling the carb up trick and get back to you... 

    How can I check to see if the fuel cut off is working properly? Also the fan control unit, is there a way to test that as well? Does the manual cover ways to test the control units?

    Thanks shade

  9. Posted

    28 minutes ago, retro said:

    It sounds like your float valve is not sealing huh.

     

    Sometimes you can restore them by using a stiff plastic brush to remove the hard shiny layer that prevents them from sealing from the rubber tip. Try brushing the rubber tip lengthwise... start from the widest diameter of the rubber tip and brush using heavy pressure toward the pointy end of the tip, while rotating the float valve with your fingers between strokes. A stiff brush is required... you'll need to brush for several rotations.... brush until the rubber tip appears like it has a slightly rough surface, all the hard, shiny appearance completely gone. When you get done the surface of the rubber will be soft and ever so slightly fuzzy looking. It will seal well once its restored.

     

    You may have to spin a cotton Q-tip to polish & shine up the bottom of the brass float valve seat too. Rubbing compound on a cotton Q-tip works well or you can substitute toothpaste for rubbing compound and accomplish the same thing. Chuck a wetted Q-tip into a drill motor if ya got one and change your Q-tips often until the hole in the bottom of the valve seat appears smooth and shiny.

    Clean up & reassemble.

    Okay super. Thanks. I'll give that restoration technique a go if I can find an appropriate brush.

    I'll have a go at polishing that brass seat as well. I've definitely got some toothpaste lol.

     

    28 minutes ago, retro said:

    You are using the stock float valve right? If you still have the china float valve in the carb then I'd pull it out and use the original.

    Yep I went back to the stock oem one.

     

    Thanks retro 

    • Like 1

  10. Posted

    5 minutes ago, retro said:

    Have you taken the spark plug out to see if its wet or dry yet?

    Yep took the spark plug out and it was wet. I did see fuel coming out the bowl vent at one point but forgot to see if it stopped later on or not. 

     

    I saw someone on YouTube testing the float valve by taking the carb off, having it upside down with the bowl off, and blowing into the fuel inlet. He said, If the valve if sealing correctly then you shouldn't be able to blow through it easily. But if it is easy to blow through then it isn't sealing properly. 

    Would this actually work? 

     

    9 minutes ago, retro said:

    I see in your photo above that ya put a cloth in the intake to keep it clean while you replaced the o-ring on the boot. By chance ya didn't forget to take that cloth out of the intake port when ya put it back together did ya?

    Hahah no I did remember to take it out lol.. 

    Thanks 

    • Like 1

  11. Posted

    Hi all. 

    I put all the oem carb parts back into the carb and also cleaned up the intake boot and replaced the o ring to ensure its sealing good.

    Now I'm having trouble starting the quad? The carb is getting fuel, I have spark. So wondering if maybe it's flooding? How could I test if the float valve is sealing properly once the carb bowl is full? 

    Any other ideas are welcome lol

     

    Pics of intake boot.

     

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  15. Posted

    8 hours ago, retro said:

     

    Check the cable slack with the plunger installed. You are verifying that the plunger returns all the way down when the choke lever is turned off.

     

    As you've heard from the guys Shindy does not include a new choke plunger lipped seal in their kits. But some of the china knockoff kits do include that seal... so if your plunger seal is the correct one go ahead and use it. I buy china kits just to get that new plunger sealing ring sometimes... the rubber parts in those china kits are perfectly OK to use, but ya gotta throw all of the metal parts in those china kits away (the jets aren't the right size in china kits, motor runs like crap if ya try to use them) and either reuse the original Honda jets, or replace them from a Genuine Shindy kit.

     

    So... if you still have all of the original jets AND they are still in good condition, then I recommend that ya put all of them back in the carb. If any of those original metal parts are junk then ya gotta buy a Genuine Shindy kit somewhere else besides ebay or Amazon. Those sites are both china fraud pits as you have learned....

     

    Let us know what you find before spending any more money on it, odds are your stock jets can be returned to service and your choke plunger is a good one with that new china seal on it.... Happy holidays Pip!

    Thanks retro!

     

    I'll get the carb off in a couple days after the festivities lol..

    Will get back to you with what i find! Sounds like it might be a Chinese knockoff then, it's annoying that as it wasn't cheap and I had to order from the states. 

    I'll look into it. Thanks!

    • Like 1

  16. Posted

    1 hour ago, shadetree said:

    hard to say ?..unless he used one of the o-rings in the kit thinking it went on the choke valve ?..hard to say if he bought a china knock-off shindy kit or not ?. i know for 100% fact..NO SHINDY REBUILD KITS COME WITH THE CHOKE PARTS !.

    I'll have to have a proper look when I get in the workshop. Hope it's not a Chinese knockoff lol

  21. Posted

    1 hour ago, retro said:

     

    Ok, there is the clue we need to diagnose this further. So its running too rich while idling.... 1st thing to check might be the choke plunger. Make sure that the plunger is returning to the bottom of its bore when the choke lever is released. You should be able to feel about 1.6 millimeters of cable slack by pulling and pushing on the choke cable where it connects to the plunger inside the rubber cable boot. Apply & release the choke lever on the handlebar while holding the cable just above the plunger, you should be able to feel cable slack while the lever is in the off position.

     

    If there is sufficient cable slack, then the next thing to check is the condition of the choke plunger after removing it from its bore in the carb. There should be a small pointed needle on the end of that plunger. Make sure that it is not bent or broken. The end of the plunger has a rubber sealing ring surrounding the small needle which should appear in good condition with no cracks or other damage. Finally, check the condition of the rubber sealing ring that surrounds the plunger near the middle of its length. That rubber ring is a lipped seal.... the lip faces up (toward the cable connection) and must not be cut or damaged.

     

     

    Nope, you can tell when the idle speed is reasonable & close enough, no need for a tachometer.

     

    Let us know what ya find out before we go any further.

    Okay perfect, that sounds like a good start. So when checking the cable slack I want the plunger out of the carb? 

     

    I will remove the choke plunger from the carb and check it over. I did replace the lipped seal with a new one and it's the correct orientation. But I'll check the needle on the end and everyone else you mentioned. 

     

    Thanks retro!

  22. Posted

    9 hours ago, retro said:

    The screw on the side of the fuel bowl is a fuel drain, is that the one you are talking about?

    Yes that's the one! Thanks 

     

    9 hours ago, retro said:

    is the small rubber plug in the right place (#2 in the manual page below) inside the fuel bowl?

    Yes I'm sure it is. Maybe I'll take the carb off again and look through it.

     

    9 hours ago, retro said:

    The choke plunger returning completely down when the choke is off?

    I would think so yes. Anyway I can check to make sure? 

     

    9 hours ago, retro said:

    The small rubber hoses connecting to the carb all hooked up right?

    Again, I presume so as I never really took them off, so they have just been left as is. 

     

    9 hours ago, retro said:

    The pilot screw initial adjustment set at 1.5 turns out?

    Yep it's set at that. I tried doing it as the manual says to by turning it clockwise until the engine stops and then screwing it out 2 turns, but the screw went in all the way to its seat and the engine was still running. 

     

    9 hours ago, retro said:

    Idle speed screw adjusted low enough for a 1500 rpm idle speed?

    I don't have a tachometer so can't be sure of the rpm. Do I need to get one?

  23. Posted

    10 hours ago, Goober said:

    when an engine rises and falls like that i think of variability in fuel flow (fuel Suction lines that don’t seal well, failing fuel pump) and incorrect carb synchronization.

    Okay, so I need to make sure the fuel pipes are sealing properly.  I'm sure I synchronized it correctly, I opened up that piece on the throttle link so that there was no gap.

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