87Iroc

I had emailed him a week or so ago just inquiring. I asked him another question today and he asked me to call him. Very nice guy that asked for background on crank and gave me all sorts of ideas on things to check to try to determine if rod bearing is shot as well as if crank is bent. I have his list as well as one here. Will update when I get back to it. His quote to me, with shipping to Indiana was 250 for putting new rod on the crank. Have to weigh using him vs used...but for knowing its right, if I determine its not bent, he is a definite option.

I will do that too.

Yep, Good Call. I'm going to attempt that here at some point later today....I just did what I could quick. I will try to flip it around and get inside there with it. It had about .010 if you counted where the weight was...w/o the weight area it was .003".

there’s a all encompassing video. I have about .003” runout on OD of flywheel except right at weight for pickup coil(Heating of spot welding would minorly deform that area). I don’t think crank is bent. At least not rear. I am talking in video and you can see me mention hopefully of where crank gets a bit harder to spin. thing is when I had it apart initially after I bought it it spun over fine before I had it bored out. Possible piston had wore its own clearance or something and now with new piston/rings/bore it’s catching I only say bearings are good as I feel no slop...but under load could be where they are letting crank move. I am going to remove indicator and put old pickup coil back on. I am wondering if new one got bent on my removal yesterday. It was very hard to get off. It was hitting but if old one doesn’t hit it could be sign I bent it or prior owner did on install.

Thanks guys. I will investigate more on crank straightness. Good idea on metal plate. See what I have in garage. I am also gonna put the old pickup back on to see if it hits. I am wondering if I bent pickup at some point. I will get a new one on order.

I will do some research. Thanks for the heads up. I don't know how the end of the crank could be bent, but the thought had crossed my mind. Wish there was some metal on this engine I could put my dial indicator to to check the runout of the crank end. The bearings all seem tight. I've tried a bunch of times to move them side to side with no sign of slop

That sound you hear is the pickup coil hitting the flywheel. I need to take a video of where its binding tomorrow.

Play by play. Shadetree asked me with the pics of pickup coil to check if you can feel contact when it goes by the weight on flywheel. You can if you’re feeling for it. And you can hear it. Also with stator cover off. There’s still a drag on the cylinder as the piston comes up the bore. So that contact is not what I’m feeling.

Rings are above Honda spec by .003-.004” for end gap but are consistent down bore within my measurement capability. Took 4 measurements for each ring

Just pulled flywheel off. It popped right off. One way bearing look good as does the needle bearing behind it. I was looking at it to determine if I had contact anywhere back there. I'd say, even if not today, I have had contact, though(considering pickup sensor is new, I'd say the contact is since its been put back together). The leading edge of the pickup on the flywheel has a 'whammy' on it where it hit something. There are marks on the outside even with the timing hole...but nothing should be hitting there. No marks anywhere else. The pickup sensor, which was new last winter as my friend tried to fix it, has some indication that that has come in contact with something too. The old one I have from him, shows pristine. I have a 2nd flywheel I picked up cheap off ebay right after I bought this. It doesn't show any marks on the outside and it doesn't have any contact showing anywhere. Hopefully you can see what I'm talking about here. Best i could get my phone to do.

Thanks for the info. I plan to spin the engine over more tonight and feel for a bit of a drag in teh rod. I don't really feel anything but am going to try to really feel for it. It feels smooth right now but maybe there's a bit of drag I haven't honed in to yet. If mine is bent, its very slight. It won't run either would wouldn't match what yours did.

So talked to Shadetree. He said to be sure to check the rod in both directions for straightness. I don't see anything that would indicate a bend when looking at it. I layed a flat 6" ruler across the pin face and it hits at the big end in the same spot on both sides by my calibrated eye. The catching in the bore ain't right though according to him. Should be smooth as silk even with new rings. Going to pull rings tonight and check end gaps up and down the bore to get a rough idea if the bore is bored straight or not. I can't imagine its not but that's really the only thing besides a slightly bent rod that would cause the piston to get hard to move up and down the bore with the jug in place. I have checked the rod and tried to move it back and forth and its solid as a rock down on the crankshaft too.No odd big end play. Question on flywheel removal as I'm thinking of pulling it to check it out due to the marks on the outside. I have the pulling tool. Do I just put the puller in the flywheel and hit it with an impact to remove? I saw one crank on ebay with a puller stuck in it...so wanted to be sure there wasn't a better way to pull it.

Yah, I just bought G&H's kit for like 180 on their website. Shipped them the jug....they gave me a gasket set and rings along with the piston/pin...

With jug pulled it becomes a very smooth engine. Not a sign of any issues. As a reminder the bore was bored out to 0.25 by G&H a month ago. Could just be rings working hatching. Check end gaps either tomorrow or this weekend

Timing checked. Piston position at tdc looks ok. I pulled rear cover(stator cover) off to check any oddities back there. I will say as I spin it I feel it get harder as piston comes up bore. Not at tdc or bdc changeover. Just partway up. Both directions but coming up bore it’s a bit harder. gonna pull jug in a sec.

All 3 timing marks line up.

ok. Good info. Always have a good battery and starter. Check! I suspect whenever I get it running right I will begin to understand how it should start.

Greetings. Back from long weekend. Got new starter installed and it cranks over fine. Got it started once now it won’t even try to hit but spark is there. Regardless I need to run thru timing checks discussed with Shadetree before I get back to it idling crappy. one thing I have not mentioned. It is a ! to pull start. It will flat kick my butt trying to pull start it. Catches hard on compression stroke. I tried with and without decompressor engaged. Pull plug and it spins like a top. Possibly this is normal And I am a weakling but both previous owner and I note it’s probably not pull startable by a Japanese engineer. i also noticed marks on od of flywheel I don’t recall being there before. I am going to pull front cover and head and check rod clearance as well as timing setup again.

My dad's family has deep roots around Hot Springs. My grandma is buried there....but rest of family is scattered now other than a few of my dad's cousins I met at Grandma's funeral in 1984. Many of my grandma's nieces and nephews never ventured far from Hot Springs....and if they did, they moved back home in retirement. A slight update. 1) Oil Filter was a false alarm. When I pulled the one there, I had done it right. Phew. 2) Starter is toast...so dead in the water until I get a new one plus going out of town for a few days. Will mess with it when I get back and start checking timing/etc then.

Sorry, dude. Did you tell me that? I may have spaced that part of conversation. Was more focussed on the proper way to hold your jaw while checking timing!! I actually did end up ordering a whole starter for that warranty from DB. Be here Monday/Tuesday I think. May play with rebuilding the old one to have as a spare, though, if the brushes and such can be had cheap. There was a LOT of black powder inside of it...but brushes hadn't come out of holders yet. Thanks, Greg

Thanks guys

Pulling this out of other thread for this one question. Starter on my quad is heading south. Have to tap it to get it to spin. Occasions to tap it are more frequent and it’s quickly deteriorating. I presume it’s original and I’ve been very hard on it lately. should I throw a rebuild kit at it or put a replacement on it? Any recommendations of brands of either option? thanks.

Talked to shade. Off hand comment and I realize oil filter is backwards. Totally not intuitive. See if I did much damage but yes. I appreciate all the help and I hope I don’t wind up loading up for a drive to Arkansas but if I have to. I get three day weekends at work right now. Have family around hot springs. . Not sure the oil filter flipped will fix knocking but will see. Gonna check a couple things then put it back together and see if anything changes. Valves appeared too loose too

Yep. still have your number. I will give you a call after a bit more investigation. Appreciate you guys help. I am currently trying to sort the location of noise out

Could I have adjusted the valves wrong? It sounds awful harsh for valves....but just throwing out a less painful idea.