87Iroc

These two bearings are hard to spin. they spin but it requires grip even when I wipe oil film off. Do they spin when trans is in neutral? I don’t think so but there’s too many one way bearings and clutches for me to keep track. One on the top is the input shaft for the trans...other one is the one with all the stacked gears on it with 2 shift forks going to it. Uploading video now. other than this it all looked good inside.

So I'm shopping for a crank here and came across this on Ebay. Its supposedly a new crank that's 70 dollars cheaper than Rocky Mountain ATV. My thought here is to sell my old one for at least a core on Ebay and put a new one in it. This would possibly make it about 50-75 dollars cheaper than a rebuilt one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Honda-Crankshaft-13000-HN0-670/184341041957?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225085%26meid%3Ddef606e5715144bb97fc6d9ee301db4c%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D154007966504%26itm%3D184341041957%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DHonda&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Acb8ea0c1-d04e-11ea-82ad-76d080bc083b|parentrq%3A9224a8f31730a69d3432dd7fffe32a3b|iid%3A1 Thoughts? I'm ready to snatch it up. Looks like seller deals in lots of old stock from somewhere. Trained eyes see anything in the pics that says this has been run before? I was eyeing the timing sprocket but didn't see anything saying its worn.

On the topic of the rattle in my transmission...whether it be excessive or not. I presume the circled parts in the image are the 'dogs' that I've heard referenced to look for excessive wear on? It appears they are the parts the shift forks engage with. I also don't see any pads or anything on any of these that would wear...so presuming I'm looking for metal wear. Wobbling things last night, gear 23 made a lot of noise...but then I supported ends of shafts so it quieted down(like the shafts had splayed apart some)...but need to investigate more.

I have 4 seals in the cart. Any I'm missing? These 4 are only 22 bucks. The kits are more than that but I think they include a bunch of o-rings that I've got in my full gasket kit anyway. Input shaft(small on front down low on left), output(big one inside rubber boot), pull start cup seal, and foot shifter seal. Any I'm missing?

That is from my friend(with my additional commentary in parenthesis) that I bought the quad from this morning. Most background I've gotten on issues he had that lead to the initial teardown... He did say he tried a cheap China CDI box and blew the fuse. Chased that for a while before he realized what was going on and bought the Honda CDI that's on the quad now.

On another note. This cylinder has been bored out .25 now by G&H. New piston, rings, etc. I've been struggling with the idle and have flooded with fuel at least twice. G&H says to bring it up to 1400 and hold there to break rings in immediately. I've obviously not been able to do that. Do I need to get/borrow a honing tool and hit it quick with a hone to rough it back up(crosshatch still looks good but a few lines in it from ring end gaps) and maybe put new rings in it again or just give it a try as is? I saw someone say they put new rings in whenever the jug is pulled somewhere so I thought I'd check on thoughts there. Another question...Shadetree mentioned replacing oil seals. I was planning on it. Currently putting them in Cart at Rocky Mountain. Is OEM the way to go or one of the aftermarket seal kits I see offered elsewhere? Looks like I found 4...can't think of any others....only 22 bucks for all of them.

Thanks. I saw the clutch basket for 40 bucks used but the other piece(mating gear which I presume is needed) was about twice that. I assume both are needed? Right now I'm writing off that I'm going to leave it stock, but I need to check what tires are on it. They aren't stock...but look factory size.

Looked at bearings. The center ball carrier thing is black in most bearings. Coating or heat treating maybe. Likely anti friction coating if I had to guess. Outer parts are either moderately stained from years of oil and soot or something else.

took me 3 times to get soot above

they do but it’s not heat it’s like Soot or something. I think it wipes off. There has been black rtv all over inside case as well. Not tons but some.

I am doing best I can. I’ve rebuilt a 6 spd trans before and several small blocks but this is first time messing with a atv. I have cases split and it’s happily resting on a little fixture I built. I see gears rattling but not sure if there’s a shift fork pad or something that disintegrated. Gotta get ready for work week And have a party to go to now but so far no smoking gun on bearings. All of them I spin feel fine. crank is out too. Several taps with a rubber mallet and it was in my hands. I made marks on balancer for lining back up. Crank is much smaller than I expected.

ShiM was there. I took it down to just crank spinning. Spins over smooth as silk with only crank. Gets a bit harder now at bottom of stroke but it feels like coubterweights doing their job and not bearing binding. Put jug and no rings on it but oiled inside of cylinder and catching was mostly gone with very little sound as piston cycled. at this point I’m ready to split cases. Seeing joys of permatex usage inside. Lots of bits here and there. Keep in mind I have no clutches or anything on this but with motor shaking with low idle I think this was some of noise is this normal or should I expect to find some injury in transmission?

I haven’t tried with jug on it. The whole thing spun over super smooth with the jug off. I will do some more checking tomorrow though. I got a nice little pair of mics. Figured I’d use them. Lol. Never used snap gauges before but gave them a try is there any way that some of noise could be coming from trans? Gear rattle with rough low idling? I shook the clutch shaft back and forth some and a noise kind of emitted or hinted similar to noise we all heard. I had to dash away but will be checking on it tomorrow. Maybe post video. Possible something ain’t right in there too. what does under drive do? Takes away top end for low end pep? will check on shim tomorrow as well

Took family longer to get ready than I thought. Looks factory @Fishfiles

Got a little 1” mic and did measurements on small end with some old cheap snap gauges I have. Haven’t pulled clutches yet.first job tomorrow. At this point I have just mentally told myself I’m splitting cases and putting a different crank/rod in. Too far in to it to put it back together and hope for best without finding a smoking gun. I can’t find anything obvious wrong anywhere(except pickup Sensor snafu) but will keep checking stuff as I tear it down. Possible that rear crank bearing is tired just hiding it well.

just factory skid plates are all banged up. And one on bottom of motor is bent up pretty bad. I have not. Will pull them tomorrow likely. Having family day as wife and daughter go back to school soon.

Oh. And I think I am the third owner. First owner used and abused it judging from shape of skid plates.

I will look tomorrow. Thanks for the background!

My assumption is its never been apart....but I really don't know what a gear reduction is. Or what the primary gear is. It sounds inside the case....but could I see it through the jug hole? I haven't pulled the clutch basket off, but can check for rivets or bolts when I do. OK. Looks like its under front cover....I'll take a look but my presumption is it hasn't been done https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Foreman-27-5-Gear-Reduction-fits-400-and-450-/112688892281

I think this is another crank option.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-Honda-TRX400FW-Foreman-Crankshaft-1058-32-13000-HN0-670/154007966504?epid=5017013412&hash=item23db971328:g:ZT8AAOSwtb1fDlqA:sc:USPSPriority!46032!US!-1

I have it sitting here with very little left before I can split cases. Mainly clutches and cam. I have spun it over a bunch and bearings and whatever else spins in neutral make a soft sound as it goes around and there may be .001” of play at a certain point in crank rotation but it sure all feels tight. I have wiggled and wobbled the rod and it has some play in it but not near as much as what I think should cause a problem. (Crank guy said if you get above .1” of wobble in pin end when rocking rod on big end it’s shot. I have 0.032” which was below his like new rule of thumb number.) anyway. Getting ready to knock off for night but that’s what I’m seeing.

We shall see

Pile of parts is impressive.

Checked crank runout on crank tail. .001” near as I can tell at tip. Maybe .0015. Screwed up though. Pulled 2nd cover off back to get at it with my indicator and gear shift shaft came with cover. Crap. Well. Ran it back thru and seems ok. Piston going up and down bore without rings does it fine. You can hear some rubbing on downstroke of piston but figure that would be normal. It does make that sound though about same place as the crank gets hard to turn with rings on it but only on downstroke not both. I put old pickup sensor is on and no hitting. Think pickup sensor got bent at some point and caused hitting of flywheel.