sled_22

Well. I thought it turned out so well. I bought a couple more 2165s. These two will be for sale when I’m done. I burned up my parts washer pump though so I have to get that fixed first.

I did 3 heatcycles before cutting. Seemed to make good power. Time will tell. I read the hyway piston is pretty decent. Caber rings too.

Johnson rod. Interesting. I figured it was some kind of cant hook. got the saw bar-Ed up today. Let it idle for about 10 minutes. I kind of had to babysit it or it wouldn’t run for more than a minute. I mixed some gas oil around 32:1 too for the first tank. Just to keep everything extra lubed. I left the carb fat and happy for about 5 minutes of cutting then leaned it out so it would four-stroke off and on through the cut. near the end of the tank I leaned it out to four stroke when no load but clean up nice in the cut. sure is a nice saw. Can’t wait to get to the woods with it. Still waiting on a NOS recoil and operator switch for the handle.

She runs. Bit to late to let it idle. Try her Out tomorrow. the rest speaks for itself. New old stock recoil coming soon.

Yeah that’s a China hose. But that’s the impulse line. I’m trying to use that up on impulse line when I can. thank you. I’m excited to hear it run. anyone have break in recommendations? I was gonna mix 32:1 and let it idle for 10 minutes then make some easy straight cuts for its first heat cycle. I’ve read a lot of different ideas.

Closer. Crank seal came today. Got the clutch together and in. Carb cleaned and mounted. Had to put the tools down and hang out for my grandpas birthday party tonight.

Piston was mounted. Plenty of 2 stroke lube. Make sure the wrist pins point up. Lube the cylinder then carefully set the cylinder. Don’t forget a new gasket before the cylinder. Before I pushed the piston all the way in I poured some more 2 stroke lube down the spark plug hole and worked it around to cost the cylinder walls. after that I started mounting the carb plate and tank. Ran new fuel and impulse lines. I put a new fuel filter in the tank and mounted the tank/handle. I also had to put the kill wires in. hopefully tomorrow my new seal for the pto shows up and it can be finished.

Too end tonight??? https://youtube.com/shorts/Gb8tizjxIcg?feature=share

Yeah there is an oring In there. Good call on the bushing installed first. I’ll try again in a couple days. 😞 better right than twice.

Well I checked the one seal tonight. It looks like it tore some when putting the bushing in. I think I’ll have to get a new one. Anyone have experience with shaft seals and what they can handle or expect? It looks a little tore up. Seems tight though with the bushing installed. I did order a new one so I’m gonna put that in but sucks that it tore just sliding the part in that needs to be in there.

And here this entire time I thought it was supposed to be self ITCHING primer. I'm sure the friendly associates at o'reileys would have figured out what itching primer was.

You are correct, there was uneven paint which i just sanded out flat and called it good. I didn't want to sand the entire thing flat only to have the original dings and scratches show through... But this Self-Itching primer sounds interesting. I'll have to look into that. The engine paint I used supposedly didn't need primer. I'll check that stuff out though for whenever I do another project. I don't foresee this saw seeing too many elements that will induce a premature paint failure/rust. It'll be my "fun" work saw. Just ordered the bar for it yesterday too... 24" TsuMura Light bar. Stihl full chisel chain. Hopefully it has a little power. On another note, I did putz with the saw a little last night. I dropped the flywheel side crank seal in. Which went perfect. The pto side is a little different and I kind of screwed it up. I put the seal in and started tappin it down. But it doesn't seal on the crank itself so there was little pressure. I accidentally hit it too hard and it dropped in too far. I think it's pushing against the bearing because the crank went from free spooling to needing pressure to rotate it. Still smooth, there's just pressure on it. The way it seals the pto side is (from inside out) bearing, tiny o-ring slid over crankshaft pressed against the inner race of bearing, then a two step bushing. The higher step of the bushing seals against the seal and the oring seals the inside of the bushing against the bearing race. Then there's a washer, oil pump parts then those are held down via the clutch. So I'm going to have to see if I can use a seal pick and push the seal out some to eliminate the drag without ruining it. Otherwise, I'm gonna need a new pto side seal. I also ordered a new o-ring because the one I had looked a little flat spotted. I'll try and get some more pictures of that tonight. I figured i've Put this many new parts in thus far, why skimp on a $3 o-ring that could cause a leak/lean condition. "Do it right or do it twice" - some guy named @shadetree

Clutch cover is finished.

Yes fish, it does feel good to go conepletely through something but the gratification will come when it runs. here’s the case as it is now.

Made a little progress last night. Got the top end together along with the bottom end. Waiting for caber rings to complete the marriage. i froze the crank shaft in the deep freeze and heated the bearings. Those suckers slide right on. Then I froze the crank again with the bearings installed then heated the one case half. Slid right in. Then heated the other case and tried to slide that in. It didn’t go as smooth. Ended up having to freeze the half case with the crank in it again for about an hour then reheated the other empty case. Then it slid right together. had to pry the crank a little to center it in the case too. when I pried I dinged the case a little so I had to smooth that out in the case. Then got paranoid I got metal in the bottom end so it got a bath. Which then resulted in chipped paint so I’ve had to repaint some of the case as well. It was one of those two steps forward one step back kind of nights. but case is together and back to waiting for parts.

Well. Now I need some bearing to show up. Paint looks pretty good. Now all my plastic parts look like crap. All laid out ready for the rest of my parts to show. guess I’ll go split wood in the mean time.

Case is cleaned up. Taped off and lightly sanded with 400 grit. Ill give her a new outfit tomorrow.

It dried more red than I thought it would. Oh well. It’ll be fine I think. parts are all laid out ready to be washed

Yeah. I don't believe i could get a better match from the jonsered factory (in 2021).

And you didn't post a picture of your wonderland? I would like to see that.

Need an opinion. How does this paint match? It’s still wet in the picture and I imagine it’ll darken a bit with less gloss. It’s engine paint.

All over the place. Some came from arboristsite members, hyway cylinder & muffler from ebay, few other seal/gasket kits from ebay. amazon for a husky operator presence lever. Funny you asked too. I TRIED to locally source the bearings. I want SKFs or other decent bearing manufactures. Not just oriely's brand bearings. I went to three parts stores in town and asked for SKF and or bearing specs. I don't want less than 23000 RPM speed rating and wanted to compared load ratings. All three stores, (autovalue/napa, carquest/autozone, oriely's) could not tell me a single specification on the bearing (other than metric to standard conversion dimensions) and only 1 could order the SKFs. To order the SKFs it was going to cost $17 a piece. I said forget it and went on ebay, bought italian made SKFs for $7 a piece free 4 day shipping. Hard to expect me to pay over double the price local with a 10 day wait.

Straight stock muffler. They have a weird bumper in the front. I ordered a replacement. without a screen as this will be a fun play saw for me. https://www.sawagain.com/husqvarna-372-xp-362-365-371-385-390-xp-redmax-g7100-jonsered-2063-2065-2071-2163-2165-2171-muffler-with-bracket-and-gasket-503765301/

Per a request I’ve started a build thread. Jonsered 2165. Scope of the project is a complete rebuild/ restoration. I started tearing it apart today. It was bought off another forum. No know history. the jonsered 2165 is a 65 cc pro grade saw. There’s also a 2171 which is the same as a husqvarna 365/372. Just in red. I’ve purchased a hyway 372 top end kit and various other parts I knew I needed. first step was complete disassembly. When I got down to just the crankcase, I heated the case and tapped the crank with a rubber mallet. first thing I found was the original bearings were a little crunchy. Good thing I had planned on a complete tear down. More to come once cleaning is complete.