sled_22

16 hours ago, LedFTed said:

got a 99 husqvarna in 2000. 51 model. that thing starts like a Harley. only one i ever seen do that. the mechanic at the shop said that model does that. something to do with the timing. any one know of a way to make it start smoother?

Ted, I don't have a good answer for you. I'm not overly familiar with those model saws although I have heard the model 41 is a premier light and strong saw. I'm sure the 51 is in the same family. Premium fuel mixed with good synthetic 2 stroke oil at 50:1 helps. Old fuel always makes stuff start harder. If it still runs strong i'm sure its just the nature of the beast. Maybe it's time to upgrade to a lighter saw with a decomp. button? Or muffler mod. what you have and let it talk to you like a Harley too?

I got the MS290 finished up after the new flywheel came in.  I cut about 8 cookies then noodled a few "Y" splits of wood. The old girl cuts pretty good and even makes french fries.

The jonsered 2095 got the air filter mounted. It looks ridiculous and sweet all in the same. But with no new parts available, one must adapt and overcome. I started messing with the bar studs on the 2095 and found them to be JB welded in. Or something of that nature. The cement was very brittle, i was able to pry and chisel it with a screw driver and it all flaked away and broke the studs loose. SO i'm on the hunt for unobtanium barstudium (kids have been watching looney tunes). I may have found some that are available, but if not i might have to brush up on my lathe skills and turn down a piece of round bar.

Nice looking project. Look forward to following it.

My biggest take-away thus far is it appears as if you're rebuilding this engine on the kitchen counter. You must not be married :).

Good luck with the conversion.

That’s how I learned to wrench. My dad had a Honda 90 atc he build out of a box. It was perfect when I started riding it when I was about 8. By the time I was 12-14 it was completely wore out from my brother and I. So I started to learn how to take it apart and fix stuff. I think we went through a couple cases from chain breaks and axles and you name it we broke it.  
it’s a wealth of information he can carry with him forever. 
glad you got it all sorted out. 

B-E-A-uuet-iful. 
 

nice work as always. 

Here’s some before and after. Friday night in the shop was cleaning night. 

Started cleaning the 2095 a bit this morning. More like disassembly. Always a good feeling when you get the exhaust off and it just glows with perfection. Must not have seen a very hard life. And carbon tells me it always had plenty of oil. 

I got a bar and chain for the 2095 the other day and I started fabbing up an air filter for it I can’t locate an air box cover so I’m going to put a uni-filter on it. Parts are starting to show up for it as well. Including a brake band clutch springs chain guard plate etc. can’t wait to sink this into some wood. She needs a bath first to check for leaks and some stripped bolts and nuts cleaned up. 

You can do it without removing the engine or swing arm. I pulled that rear cover and repositioned some gears by the starter. You don’t need much to get in there and spin the gear position sensor. Putting it up in the air keeps your oil in the front so you don’t have to drain and replace. 

9 hours ago, bcsman said:

Well good news, against all odds I got my Stihl 009L to push oil again.  I made a post on the Arboristsite.com with my problem and got a few responses.  One of the guys gave me some advise I had never heard for fixing these little Stihl oilers.  I had asked for help finding where the oiler vent was and he posted a pic with a red arrow showing what he has done before to get it working again.  He said with the oiler removed the hole he highlighted gets tunneled to the crankcase to act as an impulse to send oil.  He said it may be plugged or restricted and with the spark plug removed to blow lightly in the hole to remove any debris.  After doing that I put the plug and oiler back in and started the 009L and like magic oil started oozing out.  I thanked him and said I bet there are a few of these saws that got junked not tryng this fix.  Thankfully I didn't need a new diaphram because they are extinct.

 

9 hours ago, bcsman said:

 

I read your post on the other forum. Glad you got it all sorted out.

There was another post similar to yours around the same time period where someone was testing a home made diaphram for these and if his worked out after a prototype, he was going to produce a lot of them for others to try. Did you see that one BCS?

13 hours ago, TBRider said:

So I picked up a chain sharpener, what a difference from filing, reg price is 70 bucks it was on sale for 40 bucks, well worth the money for anyone who cuts wood every year, I can't get over how nice it cuts. And get more cuts per tanks.

What kind of sharpener did you get? Like a file guide? or electric grinder?

7 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

@ATC4ever , that sled looks like a missile !!   100MPH ????  

I'm not sure there's a sled made now a days (other than the economy sleds) that won't do 100 mph.

I had my Custom Turbo Yamaha Apex doing 137 across Lake Gogebic in the UP of MI, (close/ish to retro) and that had a 162" track. And you're correct Fish,1000 lb missle is what that sled was.

(fwiw, my wife now wears the sled on her finger)

1 hour ago, jeepwm69 said:

On the 350 Rancher they're both reg thread/ lefty loosey, righty tighty.

It's "righty tighty, lefty loosey" . in that order.

When I say righty tighty second in my head, all i hear is whitey tighty. And that's an entirely different support saddle there....

I hope you all now think of underwear when you say that mechanics slogan in head for the rest of your life as will I....

1 hour ago, bcsman said:

I'm trying to figure out why my Stihl 009L quit oiling.  It used to use a full oil for a full fuel, then used around half, then hardly anything.  It has an unusual oil pump setup with a diaphram and uses the up and down of the piston to draw oil.  There are no more parts available, so have taken it apart to see what it looks like.  The diaphram looks good and blew in the end of the connecting hose to clear it where it oozes out.  Gonna put back together and throw some thinner oil in it to see what happens.   

I think I read something once that if you hold the diaphram up to a light, and can see light through it, it has met it's maker and will not work any more. Something to check before you put it back together. Check the impulse line that goes to the diaphram too. Like the impulse that goes to the carb, if there's so much as a pin hole, it won't work properly.

39 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

nice job on getting it back working. I've heard mine burp when taking the bar oil cap off, but haven't had it leek, yet, over the years I've had to adjust the oil rate some depending on what bar oil i use, (Brian) my small engine guy told me the standard was it should use half a tank of oil to one tank of gas, mine uses a tad more oil. 

Yeah that is a good usage to shoot for. At least for 20" bars and less. I have my 462 and 28" bar using about 3/4 tank of bar oil to a tank of fuel.

What sucks about the flywheel key shearing for me, is the key is cast into the flywheel, So you need to order a new flywheel and can't just replace with a standard woodruf key. There goes $21 worth of profit. Ohh well, could have been worse and the piston could have come detached from the rod I suppose.

Funny how the previous owner said they ran it out of gas and then couldn't restart it. I think they threw a whole bunch of new parts at it and couldn't get it going with the end result of selling for what they just put into it. I'm sure the saw didn't owe them anything other than that new stuff. Based solely on the 20 years worth of dirt built up.

I'm going to have to fabricate an intake for my 2095 jonsered next. that should be a fun project, parts expected to arrive throughout the week.

On 3/20/2021 at 12:19 PM, JohnHenry said:

I finally got it split. Didn't need to remove the stator drum (not sure the proper name). I'd be afraid to hit it, seeing it apparently has magnets inside. Was pleased to find it was a correct diagnosis and there was one tooth broke off from the first gear. Now I hope I can get all of this back together next week when my gear set comes in! lol! I'm sure the video above will be an enormous help though.

You should put a new timing chain in too while you have it tore down this far. Also, replace all the seals and put new gaskets in. Check your drain plug threads as those are common to be stripped out. Good luck with the rebuild.

Here's an update on the Ms290. Finally got everything cleaned up in the parts washer and reassembled. It went together really smooth. Grease free even!

Ran into one snag though and I caught it on film when testing. It's more fun and suspenseful to watch my video though (just don't read the title haha).

Something interesting to think about:

The saw obviously was pushing oil out a ridiculous amount when i got it. I knew it would be an issue. With the saw completely tore down, everything looked good. I had the saw laying clutch side down for a week and nothing came out.
Then I started a warm fire in the shop and kept it going for a few days. must have averaged 35 degrees for a week then 70 for 4 days. ANYWAY, when I had the saw sitting straight up for those 3 days, bar oil pushed out the conventional bar oil hole until empty.
So, I filled the oil tank back up and replaced the flippy cap. It hasn't leaked since.
The heat cycle presurized the tank and it leaked out the easiest path. Correctly ventilated caps for these tanks are crucial just like on fourwheelers and everything else for that matter.

Stay safe down there my southern brethren.

I had a dog for it but needed to get the right hardware for it. It was installed after the fact.

Stihl 090... that would be cool to have but a running saw right now is selling for $1500-4000 USD.

14 minutes ago, TBRider said:

No rad on them, they have these under the sled. Coolant circulates through these and get cooled by snow kicked up from the track.

Radiator, heat exchanger, heat sink, cooling tubes, antifreeze automatic leak makers. I've heard most of them all. And those things there, dissipate engine heat through snow kicked up by the track or ice scratchers.

19 minutes ago, 56Sierra said:

Man, I am totally clueless as to what you two are talking about.  Fascinated to learn something new.  Water cooled sled and scraping snow?  Today is help a moron understand something new day so....

🤔

I didn't listen to this video, but it shows them in action pretty well.

most water cooled sleds have their radiators run through the foot boards so snow is kicked up on the floor plates cooling the engine's coolant.

3 minutes ago, TBRider said:

-15C here overnight and windy, snow sucks, hard and icy now, no lube for the slides and the sled was overheating cause its liquid cooled that needs snow to cool with.

Lost a ton of snow though on those few warm days....

Hard pack trails, cold temps, and no lube was always a struggle for me in WI. I always ran "ice scrapers" on the sides of my suspension rails. This scraped up snow on the trail as I rode and flung it into the suspension/slides and tunnel to help cool. They made a big difference. But were also a constant wear item.

This is what I decided on since I’m not into engines too often and for the $30 I spent, worst case the garage just smells better. I’m gonna make sure none of these leave a residue before dumping them in. Otherwise I’ll just dilute the simple green. 

Probably more so the saws themselves. So I want it safe for magnesium plastic covers and old paint. 
to go from this before and after without using a seal pick and 40 shop towels. This is that new2me ms290. 

Picked up a parts washer today too. This was my great uncles. I’ll put it back into service. Now, what solvent should I put in there so I can use it on some plastics without fading. Purple power, mineral spirits, varasol, simple green. So much to choose from.