sled_22

7 hours ago, Tim-ANC said:

Since you guys are sharing pics of your wood 😆

 

Nice wood!!!! I like my stacks nice and tidy too. I want to build a wood shed this spring. Mostly so I can threaten my children I’m gonna take them out back to the wood shed. Only to make them stack wood of course. 

12 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

An equipment guy no doubt 

 

Can you imagine tripping over those big teeth every time you wanted to fill that little wood stove. can't imagine that being too handy. Clever heat sink though but it has to take 2 days to heat that sucker up.

I had to say something in the wood fire thread about splitting wood in a t-shirt. Well mother nature caught my drift and sent 3 degree F. with 10 mph winds this morning. Looks like a big snow system headed my way this weekend.

One thing is for certain, you’ll never know what you’re going to find until you open it up. Mine quad worked in every gear but first but I also had all the splines wore of the primary drive as well as a few teeth in the first gear. Lots of shrapnel means lots of cleaning. 
be prepared to take it all apart and thoroughly clean all the bearings and each part meticulously. Don’t forget to flush the oil cooler and make sure you don’t have a stripped oil plug while you have it all apart. 
don’t be afraid to take pictures and ask question. You’re not the first to rip this engine down on this site. 
good luck and keep us posted. 
 

I had yesterday off so I put the trailer capacity to the test. Without stacking too high on the trailer, she hauls about 1.5 cord. That’s after splitting and stacking for verification. 8’ lg x 4’ deep. Not much gap between rows. Fence is 4’ high for reference. 
It’s January in WI and was splitting wood in a t-shirt. What’s wrong here???

I butcher all my own venison. Package steaks, grind the scraps, even make summer sausage and brats. Ground beef is bought from realities that raise Steers and I buy most of the beef steaks I cook. I’d need a lot more time to start butchering my own beef haha. 

Here’s a video of its first cut. https://youtube.com/shorts/M1c4pEbkwkA

the rakers got taken down a little too far so she’s pretty grabby in knots but cuts darn good. 

And to follow up with the 041 av rebuild. Well it runs again. Need to put it into some wood tomorrow after some break in. Sure is quiet for how big it is. She cleaned up nice. Too bad the bar and chain is basically junk. 
trying to decide if it’s worth some stihl paint or not. Kind of liking the petina. 

36 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

nice score! what size is that new trailer 5x8 ? or 5x10 ?

6x10 with 3500lb axle. 

Well I found a guy that needed to liquidate. So I got a nice 031 av. A parts 041 farm boss and 10 sweet old homies. Guess I got some projects now. Grand total was $70. 

Good day at the brush dump. Mostly ash but found some rounds of red oak someone missed. The new trailer works great. I figured a full cord in there. 

On 11/16/2020 at 4:41 PM, SlammedRanger said:

I would just get an adjustable thrmo-disk type thermostat (120 or 240 depending on what the blower runs on) that i would mount directly to the sheet metal so it can get heat soak off it. Then i would run that inline with the main power to the blower so it keeps the blower running anytime the metal is hot. But would cycle off if the metal cooled off. Atleast thats what im grasping your trying to do? Keep the metal from getting real real hot?

 

 

This is exactly what i did... Installed this disk directly in line with the blower fan. The problem is, I think the delta temperature difference is not enough. The blower kicks on at 140 but only runs for 30 seconds and then the disk shuts the blower off. Then, 30 seconds to a minute later the blower kicks back on. It's short cycling because the blower cools the surround off so quickly.

I don't think the disk is reading right anyhow after some testing. I disconnected the disk and manually had the blower running. I put a thermometer in the duct opening to measure the supply air coming off the furnace. It measured about 105 degrees. Inside the sheet metal surround, I would have to think the temp should be higher. However, the disk switch was "open" aka blower would have been off at this time. (after bypassing the switch and just having the blower run constant and measuring with a multimeter)

so either the return air is too cool where the switch is or the disk switch isn't working properly. I wonder if i installed that disk in the duct work right at the top of the furnace if it'd work any better???

Right. The biggest thing for me would be for it to shut off when the fire goes out. That way if I wanted it warm in the morning, I could fill it full at night and not worry about the blower running all night. 
 

6 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

where on the duct work is the thermo located ? 

Look at the hole in the side of the red panel on my first picture. Centered and towards the top. 

So I have that wood furnace in my garage. And I bought and installed one of disk type thermostats. Hooked it up to the duct blower and it works like crap. 
i have it set to turn on at 140 and off at 100. It turns on what I would assume is 140 but then shuts off 30 seconds later. It continually short cycles even with a good fire making consistent heat. It can’t be good for the duct blower to be turning on and off like that. 
any ideas???? 

i have feeling I’ll have to get a controller and install a thermocouple along with a combustion blower. 
i put the thermostat switch in the hole on the side of the red panel. 

Sent the kids to grandma and grandpas tonight and got some more done. It’s starting to look like a saw again. Carb kit in.  New fuel lines and clean clean clean. Stihl dirty. The carb was full of grit and dirt. Can’t believe it ran before. 

Ohh forgot to mention. I deleted the base gasket. Hoping my timing won’t be too far off. I measured the “squish” on the top end after I preassembled. I had .027 clearance. I think .020 is what ported saw guys shoot for. I used tiny bit of rtv along the outside to seal so I don’t suck any air. Still squished to .027. 

A little progress on the 041. Got the top end back together. Doesn’t feel like there’s much compression but I’m sure you need to run it plus have some gas oil mix to properly seal.
the muriotic acid worked pretty good along with some scotchbrite 400 grit. Here’s some you pictures for your enjoyment. 

4 minutes ago, shadetree said:

the paint ( silver ) holds up very well, i paint them silver because bare aluminum looks ugly, shows mud stains and everything else, so, i paint them silver, one of my trade marks :-).

What's the paint code? "polished tin man silver"

looks good buddy!

I don’t care who you are. This is something everyone should learn to understand. It was the start of a revolution. 

@Pampas56

starting procedure for my stihl is:

choke full on until the saw “pops” once. 
then you switch it to the high idle. (You should have the chain brake on as well) 

then pull till she starts. She’ll be reving high so careful with the bar if you don’t have the chain brake engaged. 
then just flip to the run position and let it warm up a bit. 
 

best way to tune the low end idle side of a stihl saw is: once it’s idling and warm. 
adjust the LA screw until it has a nice consistent low idle. 
then adjust the L screw so that when you punch the throttle, it revs right up with out any bog or hesitation. Once it’s set right your chain might continue to spin. (See next step)
then. Go back to the LA screw and adjust the idle to the point where the chain just want to turn on its own. Then down a hair to keep it from spinning. Just enough to keep the clutch from engaging. 
like bcs said, don’t mess with the high unless you know what you’re listening for. There should be a “stock” adjustment range for that saw somewhere. Like he said it usually 1 to 1 1/4 turns out if you still have the limiters in the carb. 
Let me know if you need more information. 
-sled. 

18 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

this is it ? I've read good results on this mix, but never located it in columbia, I'll get in touch with my small engine guy. i believe jeep mentioned he mixed his 2 cycle gas a tad on the rich side ? 

Yeah that’s the stuff? Want me to pick you up some next time I’m at the stihl shop?  I’ll ship it to you. 
I run that in all my 2smokes. Weed eater. Leaf blower. Ice auger. Saws. Mini tiller. Never had a problem.  Like I said, each pouch is for 2.5 gallons and I mix with 2 gallons to be a bit rich. 
 

I use opti2 synthetic mix. I think it states that it’ll mix 100:1 but I usually mix one pouch with two gallons instead of the recommended 2.5 gallons. That puts it at around 70:1 when I did the figuring. Never had a problem with my saws.   I believe I’ll try stihl synthetic when I get my new saw. 
 

The city is on a rampage of cutting ash this week. It’s the mother load. 

Here’s the crank case. Cleaning up nicely. I’m just glad the bottom end is good. 
I shouldn’t be too surprised I guess.  It did run prior to disassembly. It just quit after 15 minutes.