sled_22

@retro I'm a mechanical design engineer by trade and have access to Inventor, an autodesk 3d modeling software. We print stuff off at work for test fits before machining with stainless steel. If you need a part drawn, feel free to reach out.

Just now, Misterclean said:

Better cooling systems, better metallurgy, better machining and better oil is why less oil is needed.

Right, all those factors along with EPA pushed it to a lower mix ratio, but why not 33:1 or 30:1. I meant the precise 32:1 increment.

Yup, mixing oil is simple math. 128 oz per gallon so take 128 divided by mix ratio.

50:1 = 128/50 = 2.56oz oil per gal.

45:1 = 128/45 = 2.8oz oil per gal.

40:1 = 128/40 = 3.2oz oil per gal.

32:1 = 128/32 = 4oz per gal as retro stated

That ( i would assume) is why many older saws and boat motors were 32:1. Because it's a straight up 4oz per gal. Easy to remember & mix.

46 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Took the MS180 out to cut a bunch of saplings this weekend, widening out the trails on the farm.  It does a great job on small stuff.  I think I might ditch the "tooless chain tightener" and get a regular side cover with nuts to hold the bar in place.  Not a big fan of this "easy" crap they put on the homeowner saws.

 

My new Forester bar and chain will be here today.  Be interesting to see how they work on this saw.

I heard those easy tighteners can actually be more difficult to use for the guy that's used to the normal chain tensioner. I found out a bit about the metal dogs on the 180s... The 180c with the easy start or whatever, come stock with a metal dog. The ms180 (old/normal style recoil) come with the shitty plastic dogs. What's the logic there? i don't know but I think that's how you got a metal dog on yours Jeep.

My 2165/372xp build is all in the mail. Everything should be arriving this week. Hoping to get everything tore down this weekend and washed up. Need to refresh my memory on how to correctly split the cases. I'm going to do the crank in the freezer/heat the case/bearings method for reassembly.

1 hour ago, jeepwm69 said:

Build thread!

Just put together a parts cart. Only ran it up to $260. Lol. Might as well buy a new saw for that price. But I’m gonna build it as a screamer. Maybe a little port work? We’ll see.  

On 1/30/2021 at 8:58 AM, Misterclean said:

Hey Sled, try the rotary part # 31-8786 for ignition problems on those old saws. It replaces points on breaker ignitions and it replaced the external capacitor on that type as well. It also makes many solid state modules spark again if the internal capacitor is bad. Just wire it inline on the kill wire. It's been many many years since I've even held one in my hands so  hope the info is correct. It is still available.

I meant to find this earlier but this is exactly what i did for the 031. I was able to get it running like i said and it had really strong spark. This was in replace of the "electronic ignition" module but would be the same application as points/condensers. Thanks for the tip many months ago.

Just purchased another fixer upper from a feller on arboristsite.  It's a Jonsered 2165, basically a Jonny version of the 372xp, or at least will be. The jonsered version is a 2171 and the one I bought is a 2165, or 65cc. The piston is cooked and there's muffler bolts broke of in the cylinder. Thus, I'm going to be putting in the 50mm piston and cylinder to make it the 7Xcc engine as the rest of the components are the same. should be a fun build and I have a feeling it will be another one of those, I intend to sell but ends up on the work saw shelf. Here's a teaser picture from the seller.

23 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

! take the powerhead off the bar and walk away with it!  That's what I've done when I got my bar pinched and didn't want to leave my saw in the woods.  Removed powerhead, went to house, got extra bar, went back and finished cutting, then got my old bar out when it was no longer pinched.

I've done that too. But because I only had one saw and luckily had another bar and chain with. But that was bucking up big logs too before I had a saw big enough to tackle the task in one swipe. Many other ways to skin that cat. I always have a wedge in my back pocket now, or near by. It's saved many a pinches.

7 hours ago, LedFTed said:

my neighbor got a chainsaw stuck, his son was there. anywho, the saw got stuck while cutting a tree.. he was gonna use his tractor front bucket too push on the tree to free up the saw. he asked me if i would pull the saw out. his son wouldn't and it didnt take me long to decline neither. i dont think i could ever run fast enough to get out of the way if things got bad...---...

i never did find out what happened to the chain, or the bar. but him and his son were still kicking many years after.

is it OK to tell a story here? ya know i can get carried away..

I'm always down for a good story.

If it were my saw/bar/chain, i would have tied a long rope to it then stood a ways away when he pushed it over with the loader tractor. I'd rather some scratches and scuffs than smashed to pieces.

3 minutes ago, retro said:

Broken piston skirt on the Intake side? Or a leaky crankshaft seal?

Yeah I think the crank seals might be the culprit. Not sure though. It’s was probably super flooded from all the cranking I’ve done while weeding through the ignition problems. 
so I kind of want to bar it up and try to put it through some wood to see if cleans up. If she cooks the piston well I have two more to put in it while crank seals are replaced. 

031 AV update! 
it RUNS!!!! 
so I removed the ignition module (1 of 3 I have) and replaced it with an aftermarket ignition module that was recommended many pages ago. After dealing with it being flooded she finally fired off. Ran and idled. 
problem is it’s running goofy. Almost like it has an air leak but it’s also puking mix back out the carb. I have more investigation to do but didn’t have a lot of time to monkey with it this weekend. 
It has a carb kit, fuel lines and impulse in it so I’m not sure on what else right now. 
 

Got a haul today! Who needs old cast?

6 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

 

I don't think 'Ted is talking about getting the tire bead to " seat " against the rim , he is talking about getting the tire bead to " seal " and not leak around the rim  , but that is just my interpretation , I am still learning how to speak  'Ted and it's been about  10 years now  ----LOL

I just read that again, i think you may be right. LOL. At first I took it as the bead wasn't sealing up on the rim and loosing air while trying to seat the rim.

Sorry Ted if I have misled you.

7 hours ago, LedFTed said:

how do ya seal a bead? the zero ture loses air around the bead, on one tire, i figure it could apply here as well.

maybe its the tire?... i sanded the rim an repainted it. usually it works,,, not in this case. thought about using silicone.

have to get tires an rims for the atv. but thats another story.

So you basically need to get the bead back set on the rim?

First thing to do is get the valve core out of the valve stem. This greatly reduces the amount of air you can put in over a short amount of time. Then you just use an air nozzle sticking into the stem instead of the valve stem air chuck.

Next lube the tire with some tire "snot" or dawn & water. Make the bead slippery.

Then you want to press down in the center of the tire to try and "squish" the tire outwards onto the bead while applying air. If this doesn't work, putting a ratchet strap around the outside circumference of the tire to squish it outwards onto the bead as well. Just don't keep airing the tire up with the ratchet strap on or you could grenade your strap.

I hope this all makes sense.

Here’s a video of us taking down a hard back leaning ash tree. It would have taken 5 wedges stacked to get it to tip the way we want. This, the Farmall M and some guide wire did the trick. Maybe the sawman helped too. Enjoy. 

I’ve never heard of guardian or magnalite cook ware. I must be too young. I have seen it go cheap at auctions. I’ll have to look into it more next time I go. 
 

11 minutes ago, bcsman said:

Gee sled could you get anymore on that poor trailer....lol

THose are two different trailers. 🙂 check out the tires. We filled three manure spreaders today. 

I guess this is double posted but made firewood with my grandparents today and cutting down dead ash in their yard. 

It’s funny. I talked about the 180 then all of a sudden today I sold it. My uncle asked about it and he said he needed a little pruning saw. So he bought it. And I swong the 462 all day. 
helped my grandparents make some firewood and cut down dead ash trees in their yard. 

Got the jonsered running today in some big stuff. Boy that’s a mans saw. Wouldn’t want to lug that around all day. But it sure runs strong. 
another video for your enjoyment. 

First videos sound didn’t work. Re-uploaded. 

5 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

A few weeks ago when doing some light cutting I broke the pull cord on the MS180C I got from a buddy (free saw, had a melted crankcase and smoked clutches from being run with the brake on, I replaced the crankcase and clutch).

 

I HATED that "ex-pull" crap on the saw, so rather than replace the pull cord, I just got a new recoil/side cover from a regular MS180 without that "ex-pull" crap and installed it.  Works great and starts like a regular saw now. 

 

I used a Farmertec/Hutzl china part, so didn't cost much either.

I ended up just getting a 180 on a bundle deal. Nice light little saw. Pretty gutless compared to what I’m used to but I’ll definitely keep it around for light stuff. 

Did some work on the 2095 tonight. Bar studs were stripped and repaired once before. I found a product called e-z lok inserts. Basically a double threaded insert. So I tapped the case out to 9/16 - 12 and put these inserts in. Smothered in red locktite. It’s all assembled and ready to test tomorrow. I’ll try to get some videos in the big wood. 

2 minutes ago, LedFTed said:

Well; just a couple of questions, or so, if ya dont mind. what kind of vinegar is best for soaking, white or apple. and is there a preference of bacon grease, lastly what do ya use to strain the grease? 

🙂

White vinegar for rust removal.

bacon grease = thick cut wrights (previously mentioned on the food thread)

strainer = i use a fine stainless steel kitchen sink drain strainer. Or i suppose a shower strainer for hair. I would recommend buying a new one and not the one in your bathtub.

Here’s my #5 Wagner. This will fry eggs nooooo stick. It could use another seasoning. Which I’ll do when I get those other two ready and cleaned up. They need a vinegar bath for a couple days first. 

15 hours ago, LedFTed said:

i would like to know more about seasoning the skillet.

i would think it makes for a more even temperature when cooking, using iron. probably better to ingest iron then Teflon, of whatever that non-stick stuff in made of. besides, i'm a bit iron deficient.

i might not need iron pills. 😀

I like using bacon grease for seasoning. After a couple lbs of bacon in my 12” lodge pan I strain it and jar it. Then when it’s lard consistency cooled, I baste it all over the pan and bake it at 200 degrees in the oven or smoker for a few hours. Then repeat. A couple times depending on the piece. 
The older stuff had a much smoother finish on the cooking surface which means less nooks and crannies for seasoning to hold. Sometimes they take an extra bake or two. 
All the newer stuff is much more of a rough cooking surface and seasons after one bake. 
lodge has even said they use a rougher finish so they can more easily pre-season their cook ware and mass produce it. My new lodge sucks for anything not cooked in oil. I have a couple smaller Wagner’s that fry over easy eggs better than any non-stick junk I’ve ever had. 

Is anyone on here cast iron junkies like myself??? I picked a couple pans today and wanted to see if anyone can ID the small pan. It says “Italian illegiable skillet”. The other is a Wagner #8 chicken cooker. $30.