oh400ex

On 2/4/2021 at 6:19 PM, Fishfiles said:

Welcome back !!!    ----   I got to say I missed you !!!  -----   Looking good !! ----Is that a Kevlar wrap on the front fender ? 

Thanks man! I think you are seeing the "carbon fiber" hood that it has on it.

It's a front cover that eliminates the stock headlights.

On 1/8/2021 at 8:43 PM, Wheeler said:

i watched this many times. Legendary in my mind. The ole 300 made it thru all that Alaskan skeg in stock forum!! Epic! 
It’s old so the video quality isn’t like today.. if u watch the entire video let me know if u like it.. 

Coming back to this thread after a break from the forum... 

This video is awesome! Love how every time she gets stuck she looks back like "What are you gonna do about this?" lol

Kids just along for the ride sipping on some juice was cute too lol

Video quality doesn't matter... it shows the full experience in a short video and they pull up on what I'm guessing is their house at the end

Crazy that their home was so inaccessible. Beautiful place!

Been away from the forum and doing everything but working on quads in the last few weeks but this bike is essentially done. 

Needs a few touches here and there to finish it off but is ready for sale. 

Finally put the OEM spark arrestor back in which quieted things down enough to make it rideable.

Engine sounds good, starts well in the cold, doesn't smoke... fluids and filters are serviced. It is ready to go.

With the starter clutch assembly, stator, clutches, water pump, coil, plug and CDI replaced the bike should give someone a great experience.

On 1/26/2021 at 1:09 PM, jeepwm69 said:

@oh400ex you have any ideas?

Been really busy lately and haven't been checking in but I can 100% tell you I would have not said the cam wasn't spinning.

Really odd issue... I can see why you were ready to burn it lol

Great work getting it figured out!

On 1/18/2021 at 6:31 PM, freebo86 said:

At a loss here. Start the ATV it fires up. But the idle is all over the place. If I tap the throttle I either feel like I have to power or the idle jumps to like 3800 and stays there. 
 

The engine just isnt running. No clue what’s going on now as I did t touch anything else. 

Sounds like a vacuum leak from the last description.

Check the boot between carb and intake. Also the carb again... is something sticking? Choke?

On your valves,

Personally I have had issues getting them quiet using feeler gauges and feeling tends to work better for me.

When you wiggle the valve it should move but not hammer. Hard to describe...

Maybe give setting them by eye/feeling a try and see if they quiet down.

The starting when cold but not hot deal could be valve too tight related.

Choke being stuck would also cause that symptom.

Edit: Saw the other thread... already on it 🙂

Bottom end is mostly done.

Replaced all bearings with OEM replacements using freeze/heat and press if needed. 

No problems with the crank installation or case marrying. I froze the crank and heated the inside bearing race for a drop-in install on the clutch-side case.

Using the crank puller/installer and light taps of my palm on the transmission side brought the cases together easily.

Everything was coated liberally in assembly grease and I poured oil on/in bearings, gears etc.

Seals were pushed in with heavy thumb pressure and driven in the rest of the way with light taps on deep-well impact sockets.

Here are a couple pictures of the cases before they went back together.

Thanks for looking!

Getting back around to this machine... replacing the clutches now.

I will be removing the judder spring/seat and replacing with a full size friction disc.

The TRX450 ATV and CRF450 dirt bike share a few components. Basically what you are doing is replacing the TRX style clutch with the CRF style clutch.

TRX has a small friction disc along with the judder spring and spring seat. You replace those three components with a single full sized friction disc.

Personally, I have never been able to tell a huge difference with or without the judder spring but like the more "grabby" clutch. 

I have heard that the traditional (no spring) clutch pack will last longer too but being a sport quad it is likely a moot point.

Thanks for looking!

Hey everyone!

I recently had the pleasure of servicing a quad with a hydraulic clutch conversion.

Long/short is that I love it... have ridden several machines with HYD clutches but never a quad.

For me... the feeling was not diminished at all and to my hand felt better.

If someone struggles with heavy clutch pull due to performance springs or lack of grip strength... I think this is the solution.

Considering one for my wife's quad. After a long ride she is sometimes sore from clutch pull.

Anyone ever ran one? Thoughts?

Thank you for looking!

Hello and Welcome!

Upload your video to Youtube then post the link here in the forum.

The link will automatically embed and the video will show up in the thread.

There is no way to upload your video directly to the site at this time.

I think the flashing 4x4 light on these model says the battery is low.

Check your service manual and post the exact model so we know what you are working with.

7 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

I never said get nasty , just don't cave yet !!1 

You wouldn't be the one to get nasty...

Say he says "I don't like this I think its worth more" and his adjuster is having a bad day...

They can take back the adjustment and reevaluate the bike... reoffer 3500 and do nothing unless an attorney contacts them.

Seen it happen with a LOT more money than this.

Edit: Have heard the words from an adjuster's mouth myself something to the tune of

"I tried to help this person and give them a fair settlement... they ain't getting a thing now"

Edit 2: If the bike ever gets recovered you may have the opportunity to buy it back at 1/10 the cost btw...

21 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Fight them some more  , they caved quick this time , you might milk them for a few more de'ner'ros !  

Just because they caved this time doesn't mean they wont get super nasty if you push it.

In my old office they would call people with attitudes "data points"

Not sure what the significance behind was exactly but the gist is you cop an attitude and they put you in a different category.

Most of the time as adjusters we could make or break a situation based on attitude/mood.

They still have never admitted that anything is worth a particular amount and could retract their adjustment offer.

Unless you get an attorney it would become receipts and policy challenges until you accept their low number.

Seen cases go straight through with no attorney and seen the exact same situation drug out over years and they eventually got next to nothing.

Personal interactions between the adjuster and the client made a bigger difference in the end number than attorneys making threats most times.

10 minutes ago, m_quick said:

Well i was happy with the insurance change from $4200 to $6200, until I seen the letter of explanation. Now I'm somewhat discontent, and not sure what to do. They listed just a portion of my mods, and appears credited me a mere 10% of cost. I know they said they would prorate the mods, but  this is ridiculous. 

Like was said above you are basically having a conversation with people who make Satan sick to his stomach... keep that in mind.

With that being said... they did what you agreed and made the adjustment.

From what I see on the invoice the only things they could find the "value" of were the listed items (clamps, suspension, etc)

They would have then just put the "adjustment" as a line item and in this case is $1855. I'm not sure where you are getting 10% of cost...

Would you have accepted the 62 before seeing the invoice? Take it and move on IMO.

The stress of going through months of back and forth when you could just do what you want now is not worth it.

I promise that they can be much nastier... I think you would be smart to take the partial L and be done.

Welcome!

10 hours ago, charaznable said:

never really join a forum because never really had a issue

I think this describes most Honda owners... well said

2 hours ago, shadetree said:

pretty cool bikes..but i just gotta ask...why go through all this trouble to make a bike look and run like a motorcycle, when ya can just own a motorcycle ?, hmmmm...lol.

49cc is street legal with no motorcycle license, insurance or turn signals where we are.

Less than $500 for something that gets ~50mpg and requires almost no money to maintain.

I know fish is just doing it for the fun of it but these bikes are the cheapest transportation for someone with no motorcycle license.

Personally liked seeing the mechanics completely exposed like the old style Indians too... easy to understand.

These bike kits may be one of the best things out there to get a young person into mechanics.

15 minutes ago, Airbusboy said:

Plan now is to replace the entire rocker assembly and the pushrods

Take some pictures of the damage if you get a chance.

19 minutes ago, Airbusboy said:

Does this machine have a magnetic oil plug that may have captured some metal and minimized the damage?

Not unless you added one.

22 minutes ago, Airbusboy said:

The only visible damage was the slight mushrooming to the top of the exhaust pushrod

You're gonna get away with it.

Fingers crossed anyway. I'm hopeful for ya and agree with the thought process behind.

24 minutes ago, Airbusboy said:

terribly embarrassed that I caused this mess of my own accord.  Can I say I must've been drinking at the time and gain some sympathy? LOL.

It might not even be your "fault" 

I have encountered several oil filters that have the "this side out" stamped into the metal on the wrong side...

That would assume you bought an off-brand oil filter (or got ripped off)

Welcome!

You might get out alright.

Small amount of oil keeps the bottom OK and the top gets the worst of it.

I had a buddy do the exact same thing and all we ended up doing was the top.

(Valves lapped with new seals, piston and rings, light hone and gaskets) The bottom was completely intact.

Arguably it would have been fine even without a rebuild... Honda lol

It has been in service for over 5 years since that happened.

9 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

I nominate @goober for Department of Carb Affairs , can I get a second !!! 

On the condition that we start calling it "goobering a carb" I will agree!

"That carb needs a good Goobering" "Doesn't need a rebuild... just a goobering" etc

31 minutes ago, m_quick said:

At $6200 I feel satisfied and will not fight for anymore.

Reasonable of you... nice work! Glad they came to a quick resolution for ya

The point of "replacement cost" is what you have to pay to replace it.

In the context where you live in an area that there is no other option other than the $100 per hour shop and you can't/wont do your own work... imagine how much you could have in a bike like yours.

The cost of the initial bike (very rare) then it would likely need to be rebuilt (and wear components replaced) as it is a 12 year old sport quad.

Then that expensive shop has to do every modification to put all the mods back.

Could easily see this machine costing over 10K after a full rebuild depending on the shop... insurance would have to pay the "replacement" cost.

I wouldn't push it personally... as I said above my acceptable number was +6k

Happy ending!

10 hours ago, slowindown said:

Insurance companies are as close to satan as one can come. 

Worked in the den... can confirm.

11 hours ago, m_quick said:

F'ing insurance just sent me a quote for $4200! I supplied them with well over 3k in aftermarket parts, and KBB list it at $3995 in stock form?

Don't be concerned, insulted etc. The person on the other end is doing their job... make sure they have to do it correctly.

The initial quote is the start of negotiations and nothing more. They want out for as little as possible but are bound to give you "replacement" cost

The burden of proof is on you to show how much the "replacement" cost is and to accept that you won't get the full amount.

You should get about 80% though... your number should be higher.

3k in aftermarket parts means almost nothing... that sucks. If you can get half value of those that would be "reasonable"

Doesn't mean that their number is correct though. Find one stock in perfect serviced condition (as yours was) and the cost will be around 5k.

This is likely where they got the 4200... approx value minus whatever percent and forget the accessories.

Counteroffer with 72 and accept 6 IMO

You will need an attorney if they will not accept any information or counteroffers but that will get cost prohibitive if you don't have a friend of family member

Edit: NADA suggested list price should be your starting price on the bike its self

$7899 - 20% = ~$6400

Welcome back!

Clutch sounds like it is worn out of service.

The question is summed up perfectly in your title.

My answer would be adjust first according to the service manual procedure and see how it shifts.

If after adjustment it is still hard to shift you will need to change the clutches.

Not a problem if a clutch set needs to be changed though. Just need to change the friction discs and a few other bits while you are in there.

Also, 

Riding the clutch like you describe to "coast" is pretty bad on them.

It basically holds the pads just far enough apart to lose engine grip but keeps them in contact enough to wear. 

Let us know what you find out!

Cosigning on the fabric ones.

If you don't go full out like slowindown and make rigid foot pegs it gets really tiring for some.

Compare it to standing on a rope for a long period of time on the sling style... pressure points.

Going for DIY? My favorite are the folding kind cut from an old street bike.

Also the rack (if not properly attached) will sometimes wear through a thin plastic box. 

IME the boxes always need some sort of rubber mat underneath. A plain and basic rubber entry mat cut to size with drain holes is a good and cheap solution.

On 12/22/2020 at 3:44 PM, Scotticus said:

 

Scott again... very impressed with the variety!

Heard the Demi version of song and liked it but never the "clean" version before.

This one is better IMO. "Ruin" just sounds better to my ear... makes more lyrical sense.

Blackbear (IDFC is sampled in this track) is also one of the new guys making stuff I can listen to.

Also no relation aside from the name "All Time Low" being the name of this song but reminded me of this one

Edit: The Demi and Blackbear version of the song gives me Fallout Boy and Paramore vibes 

5 minutes ago, macec3(TX) said:

I have an electrical problem that has me baffled. When I turn on the key, the neutral light will come on after about 10 seconds. Then press the start button and the neutral light goes out and no start. When the neutral light comes back on if I use the recoil starter, it will start and run just fine. Just don't know why the neutral light is going out using the start button. What is going on. I am about one click above moron when it comes to electrical problems. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Welcome!

Could be many things but off-top sounds like a weak battery or ground.

Load test (replace) the battery, clean all connections and see if that fixes the issue.

Let us know!

2 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

My Dad use to say " everything in life that is fun is in three categories :  " against the law , bad for your health or a sin " ,  I found that  there are hater people out there that see you having fun and try hard to stop you from it and use political correctness as the reason ---live and let live or in this case , let die 

He's not wrong... if you want to risk your life it should be your choice no matter the method.

If it doesn't hurt someone else... it isn't anyone's business IMO

If I had unlimited money I would contact these guys...

https://bvctrikes.com/collections

They are making the modern ATC conversions and big wheels. You will pay for the pleasure...