F250 guy

Thanks buddy.

Been good man, just living life, considering an 87 F-350 6.9 idi 4 speed 4x4 183,000 miles for 5 grand. Or a 97 F-250 351W 5 speed 4x4 for 6 grand . Just curious about those questions cause my sticker wore off. As for the carb E clip, does the service manual show pictures and where would I go to download it?

Hey guys it's been a while, would anyone know what A and AN means for the different models of the 300? My carb question is, does anybody have a precise picture of the slot the E clip for the needle goes in for a 2wd 300? I'm going back with factory parts, reason for asking is choke on very first start has me confused since I did it last time. Plus that Shindy needle didn't seal. Thanks guys. Going to start on it probably next weekend. JD

I sure do, I wasn't sure if you could take it apart but after looking up a diagram it's built in the lever, I found em on ebay 18.00

I went to shift into reverse on grandpa's 300 4x4 and the pin popped out. Is there a clip that holds it in the bracket that can be replaced or buy the whole bracket? The red button you push down that pulls the reverse cable. I looked on mine and I can't figure out what holds it in. My mom wants it fixed. That's a general picture, the actual button I can put it in but won't stay in.

I'm not against a good 300 in fact I'm looking for plastics for mine only green. But still gonna keep it. Just needing 4wd and more HP. These are my main choices a 2013 foreman, 95 300, and a 98 I think. Going to keep mine as a spare. Need opinions.

Cool man all I did was sit around and gorge on turkey mashed potatoes and gravy.

Haven't posted lately, hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving, we got today off at work plus the weekend. Would like opinions if you wouldn't care on Stihl HP Ultra, I've been around the stuff cause of where I work has mostly stihl equipment, and it stinks plus only FB certification, next to lowest you can get. I use Echo Red Armor personally and love it, much cleaner and better odor. Below is my email to Stihl and I got this back from them as an answer from Stihl about the certification question. Hello, I was wondering if you could tell me what oil you use to make your HP Ultra and why it isn't FD Certified, I was shocked the company I work for uses an uncertified oil. Could you send me proof of certification. No wonder I'm having to tear into all the 4mix equipment also has a HORRIBLE odor when running. Stihl answer. Hi Jd, Thank you for contacting Stihl USA, Hp ultra is certified to API TC standards. Specifications for two stroke oil Specifications for two stroke oil are as follows. NMMA TC-W3 – two cycle water-cooled, third generation. TC-W3 obsoletes TC-W & TC-WII. Oils with this spec do not use metal based additives and are ashless. This is an outboard-specific spec -- most mopeds will not use this kind of oil. API TC – only API spec established for two cycle engines. It regulates lubricity, detergency, ash content and pre-ignition. Oils with this spec are typically using metal-based, ash-producing additives. JASO FA – original spec established regulating lubricity, detergency, initial torque, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking (obsolete) JASO FB – increased lubricity, detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements over FA. JASO FC – lubricity and initial torque requirements same as FB, however far higher detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements over FB. JASO FD – same as FC with far higher detergency requirement. ISO-L-EGB – same tests and requirements as JASO FB. ISO-L-EGC – same tests and slightly higher detergency requirements (piston varnish) as JASO FC. ISO-L-EGD – same tests and requirements as JASO FD. Abbreviations: NMMA: National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMA) -- based in the USA. API: American Petroleum Institute -- based in the USA JASO: Japanese Automobile Standards Organization -- based in Japan ISO: International Standards Organization -- based in Europe Cory Carden Technical Service Representative --------------------------------------------------------- STIHL INCORPORATED 536 Viking Drive Virginia Beach, VA 23452-7391 Telephone: (800) 467-8445 Direct (757) 785-2350 E-Mail: [email protected] Internet: www.stihlusa.com No reply sense.

Didn't get a chance to recheck it. It's tight think I might've hit more in the center, didn't have a 30mm socket I think that's the size of the bearing. I had the washers and bolt I pulled it out with and a ball peen hammer.

Congrats and welcome, you'll love that Foreman more you get to use it.

Factory plug, but I did check and it's not arching wrong, from what I understand now about all of the new emissions standards make them burn that way or cleaner fuel, I switched back to Tru Fuel until the carb tool comes in nice n light black how they all usually are lol. Yea can't believe I never thought a cleaner burning fuel would do that hey first time for everything. I used to be of that frame of mind until my main mower died and I was doing a yard for payment. Then I started to investigate the true cause. Poor fuel. On that note if anyone is interested go to Taryl Fixes All channel on YouTube go to his playlist and the fuel additive experiment is very very interesting.

I switched back to Tru Fuel buying quarts, it didn't occur to me that the VP burned so clean I needed to adjust the mixture that takes the Walbro long D style tool that dealers won't sell you. I'm not buying gallon cans of Tru Fuel, for that I'll go mix it up at Sonoco. Not made of money anymore lol. My boss had nothing for me to do for over a month, so I'm cutting grass again.

Note. This gem is 5 months old I was trying to see if there is a cleaner burning fuel, Anybody else ever switch fuel mixes and have a plug run lean on the back side of the ground leg? See I was using Sonoco, then Tru Fuel 50:1 cause of convenice but figured out the big cans are 110oz not a true gallon. So I switched to VP Racing multi mix just really stumped factory dealer adjustment. I am however getting the factory tool. Just wanted your opinions, Fuel I was running was 92 octane with the Tru Fuel. I never had this happen. I did run the Red Armor for a while but the bottles that let u mix 6 gallons are kinda pricey, but I thought worth it till I started adding up prices. If I can get over getting ripped off I may stick with Tru Fuel but more likely I'll go the extra distance and mix it myself, this was just an experiment I wanted to conduct. Just curious if anyone else had issues pop up like this. No marks on the piston and cylinder. Of course my flash is on but it wouldn't affect the pictures.

I don't know why I didn't think of that either, and how long, never froze a bearing before?

I'll look and check but I think all we have heavy colvert and steel pipe. And I'll look at some pawn shops, thanks for the tip.

Got that right but what's a farmer with no tools supposed to do lol, but yea I'm actually thinking of a new tool upgrade for the garage anyway. But I'll start with some good hand tools. You couldn't loan a guy $20,000.00 for a garage overhaul could ya lol. I think internal master cylinder pliers will do the trick. I'll update when I can.

Question, sticking to the damaged bearing thought, if a man didn't have the right socket for the outer race and only washers, what effects on the middle race would after hitting the outer race to get it down enough to get a washer on it, "OH CRAP" I did have to hit center my washer wasn't the exact size, now I know get the right socket, don't just scrounge in the parts drawer. But hey done what I could with what I had not best thing but tried 1000% to be very gentle. Once it was in there I went around the outside best I could. Lesson learned get right size socket or tools. Dumb dumb me

I'll look for a socket and offset snap ring pliers when I get another bearing. Thank you 😁 I put the clip end of the snap ring towards the engine so that'll give a little more room .

By yoke I mean the assembly the center tie rods bolt to. I took it off as an assembly tie rods bolted to it n let the whole thing drop down.

Oops lol What would you recommend for an install tool, not much room underneath cause of the small exit for a standard bearing tool. But I'll tackle it next weekend. What's the Tempkin bearing alternative if you know of one?

How much normally, I was told slather it on lol.

Let's keep that thought open and if I accidentally did, is there a factory bearing tool or better than what an old farm boy has? Just asking.

Will do and yea I did. I took the whole yoke tie rods n all at once off. You guys ever have that kinda thing happen?

Sorry just now seen you guys wanted pictures. Phone was dead. Welp got it in but the darn steering is tight when stopped but fairly better when moving. Even jacked it up both wheels off the ground and still very tight. So what I did and where I'm at so far. Greased the upper bushing like making a cake, snugged upper bushing bolts all the way backed off 1/2 turn. Checked grandpa's 300 and the shaft nut was one thread above the cotter pin hole, that helped get what I think is the up n down free play, other than that I'm going crazy. Karma I guess lol doubt it. Started the new bearing straight n square. Pulled the old one with washers and a grade 5 bolt. Didn't have pullers do pulled it out n put the new one in with a ball peen hammer and washers socket that was the same size after it was down enough. I'm seriously thinking of getting a Tempkin bearing, that G&H Discount ATV SUPPLY one doesn't feel right.

I figured that out about the 5th time of trying to get the bearing out. New plan PB Blaster and a week of soaking well spray it tomorrow and let it sit a week while I'm mowing and weedeating all week. Rust ring should b gone.