freebo86

Should have clarified; do the seals get installed on the shaft and then the shaft gets installed? Or do they get installed on the diff and the other end towards the engine that has like a massive tube on it and then the shaft gets put in.

So the other seal is in for the front prop shaft. I still am trying to understand how this seal sits and if its on the ridges of the shaft and what is meant by the "so it doesn't turn inside out" This isn't my photo. But is the left seal supposed to be outside the boot? LOL..

Checked, that OEM light is $55 lol. I think the China crap may win this one 😞 I'll keep it tasty and clean. Maybe recess the light into the lower portion of the 2up seat? This clean? 😄 https://www.amazon.ca/Light-Universal-Motorcycle-Brake-Running/dp/B07V26NPYN/ref=asc_df_B07V26NPYN/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335356525817&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12171816789527666982&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20123&hvtargid=pla-850764292983&th=1 There is 1 switch per lever with 2 contacts on every switch. So a total of 2 switches on the front end.

Well this is sweet! Now question is, whose done this and where did they install the actual light? I dont want to get rid of that back little cargo box. Should be easy enough to source a LED light off Amazon.

I'll tell ya right now, it won't start in any gear. Has to be in Neutral. If that is what you mean by start in any gear? So what's interesting..... -When I got the bike it was missing that back little cargo box below the rear rack. - Also there was this black switch almost like a plunger near the foot brake (just a bit back) as well. I had no idea what it's for. It's still there, I figured it had something to do with going into reverse.. So I just googled "Foreman Brake Light" stumbled on quite a bit of stuff.. the below came up.. That switch I have by my footbrake looks exactly like that top thing I circled below.. a plunger. Also, that OEM Light assembly looks like it may go exactly where the rear cargo box typically is.. which explains why mine was never there.. but I also didn't have a light.. So looks like this bike is wired for brake lights! Just missing the actual Light? So perhaps the two wires by the voltage regulator are for the actual brake light itself then? If so, that is sweet! Because I actually wanted to do a MOD like this to show when I am applying brake etc.

No it doesnt, lol! So what is it for haha!

Yes, this 2004 Foreman 450ES (TRX450FE). It is Canadian, even has a thing by the battery compartment that says it meets Canadian Spark/Ignition Regulations or something of that kind.

I did last night actually, the cables for both sides come together and run down the column and tuck up just under the fuel tank at the front corner and plug into a white connector of sorts. Looks pretty OEM setup, the connector is even fastened to the frame to hold it in place so it doesnt move.. I'll snap a pic of it tonight. It's tucked away right here.

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04 450. This is what I am referring to. This picture is the front brake lever, it's not connected I assume the two cables in the headlamp housing go here since they match the same style as what's on the other lever for the rear brake. It has the two connections on it, they are behind a rubber boot. What is the foot brake switch your referring too? Because I think I may have this as well I've been wondering what is is and thought it's something to do with the reverse trigger?

For brake lights? My unit doesnt have active brakes lights, ie. they do not go indicate I press/pull the brake. I just have the 2 stationary rectangle lights at the rear that that come on when my Lights are on to indicate position. So are you saying this ATV should have an actual brake light? If so, where exactly is this brake light wired to at the rear I didn't see any wiring back there for that. The accessory wiring at the back is nice, I may utilize that for hand warmers on the 2up seat.

So wrapped up the LED lightbar tonight, also installed the Heat Deamon Grips wife got me. Can someone tell me what these wires are for? These were tucked away behind the steering head lamp. What’s odd enough, the front brake lever has a 2 contact style switch (similar to what the rear brake lever has). But I also recall, in the rear by my regulator there is these two cables barrels that were never attached to anything. Anyone have a sweet idea what the front to cable connectors are for? Also same for the rear. Also, the PO converted the front brakes to Discs.. if that matters.

Yah, think I'll wait till have I have the other seal in hand before I reinstall the diff. So for both seals, the ones closer to the diff and the one towards the engine - both face the differential with their cups opening? The ones I am talking about are #47 and #48.

Made some further progress last night. Question, I have to wait on one of the seals for the front prop/driveshaft the dealer didn’t have it in stock. To reinstall this unit, does it go in front then the differtnetial or can the differential be slid back in, axles etc. and then install the prop shaft? Just looking to make headway while I wait. As well, how do the seals actually install on the prop shaft? Do they push against something? I pulled the old boots off to clean up the old dried up grease etc. but can’t see how the original seals were even installed. In other news. Pulled the front connectors off and di-electrfied greased them up. Installed the front lift brackets. Since I will be installing a light bar. The battery compartment is getting crowded and tight I decided to relocate the winch solenoid to the rear box. Re-routed the cable against the frame rails. The light came with its own wiring harness and switch, the switch portion I won’t be using as I’ll tap into the high beam as my switch/trigger wire.

yes it is. I searched the bearing number locally and it looked the same (blue shields) even tho it wasn’t a All Balls. I did remove the seals and add grease (surprisingly this one wasn’t that low packed to begin with).

It’s actually the old one. I inspected it and it was fine surpassingly. I cleaned it up and applied grease to it liberally. Steering is almost like power steering lol! More updates in the coming days!

Well luck was on my side. After posting that, I somehow got a good angle and solid blow on it with the hammer and destroyed the inner cage and balls. After that I used some heat, and a 1” socket and the outter race popped out of the bore. Started reinstalling some stuff. The steering and column feel rock solid now! Wow. I will have to wait a few days for one of the propeller seals to come in before I can reinstall the diff. But in the mean time I will tackle the lower shock bushing, di-electric grease all the connectors that I have clear access to and install the Lift Kit on the front until it’s all buttoned up and I can get to the back.

Guys, I’m defeated. This thing isn’t moving. I got my poor man oxy torch.. don’t think I know how to use it. I had that thing glowing red.. and it’s not coming out or apart. what do I do? I cut part of it with my dremel and still can’t collapse that inner hole to get it and the balls out to work on the outter...

10-4! Got it now! Hopefully I can get into the garage tonight and provide some more photos and progress. Stay tuned, if you guys care! 😄

I am confused. When you cut the inner part that has the balls, they fall out. then your left with the OUTTER race that's against the bore, no? And blow a slice, what do you mean by that?

You jived my memory! I have a set of this in by top shelves in the garage.. I picked up at a yard sale a few years ago, never used it... I guess that would work as long as the bottles are filled? So use that to heat the actual bearing up for it to crack and not the surround area? Because I do have a small torch that I used with a yellow bottle for heat when needed. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mag-torch-oxy-map-torch-kit-0587579p.0587579.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA_9r_BRBZEiwAHZ_v14EGj5X6_ARrBmsyxkICJWu5L23Iy2L4sF19B6PppEH8-gMCZk3y2xoCbkQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=249

Thanks for all the info! For the bearing, issue is I can't figure out what socket gives me this ability to push against the outter race. Because all I can fit inside from below is a 24mm which is too small to go against the outter race. Next sizes up all start to push against that lip thats part of the bore..

Gave up trying with the space and angles I had, pulled the front diff out. Wasn’t as bad as it looked. Still hoping someone can chime in on the lip and bearing if what I am seeing from below is the bearing end or a lip that the bearing seats against? I think my only option will be to beat this thing out.. or use a dremel and cut the race. Pretty sure I discovered why my steering wears of to the right, my front right lower shock bushing is completely toast. How do you guys replace these? All Balls kits or the individual Honda part numbers? Looking for a cost effective solution as I may do the uppers too. Pulled the front driveshaft. Teeth look good on it, grease is dried up. What grease you guys recommend for this when I reinstall? Also on the boot towards the end on the shaft looks like the seal or another rubber boot that’s inside the larger boot is torn?

Took last night off, back at it tonight. Does the bearing sit into a grove at the bottom end? Curios to know if my socket is pushing against a lip that the bearing is seated against..

Do not have access to the a oxy torch. I really don't want to remove the diff lol. I think I will give it a go with threaded rod and socket, PB blaster and Heat if needed. I think 24mm is the biggest socket that will slide up in from underneath? No other snap rings or things holding this thing in besides rust I would assume?