freebo86

I got a Air Chisel, but the thing let go on me leaks air past the seals so it wont really hold pressure and when I pull the trigger it doesnt have the umpf it used to.

Yah no go on that with the diff in place. I gave it a go last night with the rod, washers, socket etc. stripped the threaded rod. Bearing is in there nicely, I let it soak. 1/2" threaded rod fits through the bearing too but not through the socket unfortunately. May give the bigger rod a go and use washer & nuts only and see. Hopefully it doesn't strip that rod, lol.

Amen brother! Got it off. Now the bear of a bearing. Looks like 7/16s threaded rod with a 24mm socket would do the trick. Going to let it soak over night as I think it’s on there properly. wish I could get a bigger socket on there but the bottom where it needs to push from will only accept that which is not quite as big as the bearing.. safety is always #1!

Tackled the lower steering stem bearing. Pulled plastic, and all else now I’m at the old bearing. There is a snap ring in there that I can’t remove for the life of me. No space. What’s the trick? I simply can’t get a good angle on it. Pulled the wheels off.. getting pretty frustrated.

very excited to install mine!

Find a difference in ride @jeepwm69? I'm very excited to install mine.

I bought the ATV about a month and a bit ago so I don’t know what’s in the carb. I can tell you that when I got the machine the idle on it was set super high. I used one of the inductive units and it read 2300 rpm at idle so I adjusted it with the idle screw down to approx 1300. But if the guy previous to me did anything to the carb I have no idea. Any way I could tell? I’ll check your recommendation first. Would be be worthwhile to dismantle the carb and clean it?

Thanks for the thread retro, I will give it a read. This may give you a bit more insight into my issue also, so if the ATV sits for a while and I try to start it cold - no issues. Pull the choke, hit the button and it fires up and we’re off. Let’s say I ride for a while, turn off the bike for a break and try to start it then it starts hard. Cranks longer and almost won’t fire takes quite a few tries...

Partially, its a lift kit but it’s actually a long travel/relocation kit. What it does it adjusts the shock position and straightens them out more 1) giving a better and smoother ride 2) gives you 1.5 to 1.75” lift as well. There is two settings (holes) where to fasten the bottom mount of the shock one giving a firmer ride and the other a smoother ride. This is made by a company called Perfex (Canadian) and they still have kits for some machines, harder to find for the Foreman. If you search Perfex Long Travel Kit Foreman you will see feedback and discussions on other forums on this kit and that it I guess makes quite the difference in ride and comfort. I was lucky and stumbled on this on eBay. I still haven’t had a chance to install it. Been out 4 times riding this past week and was great. Really enjoy the Foreman. Hoping to tackle more repairs starting tomorrow again and this lift/travel kit being one of them. - Lower steering bearing needs to be replaced - one of the rear lower shock mounts needs replacing - Install Perfex Kit -Valves need to be adjustment. I am also noticing a backfiring phenomena when decelerating from higher speeds and RPMs down. But this seems inconsistent and sometimes it does it and other times not.

Ya sorry, stupid iPhone typo. I meant to say what to use NOT to grip both nuts. Going out against today -4th time this week 🙂 Will get a few days of rest after this and hopefully some more tweaks and I’ll take a stab at this.

the double nut idea sounds great, but what wrench will work with that thin of a nut and grip both nuts at the same time?

thanks. I know how to adjust it it’s just that the stud itself is seized on there. The 8/10mm nut is loose but the stud won’t move. Posted about it a few posts up. Haven’t had a chance to tackle it again. When the - - shows up I assumed it was something with the angle sensor? Or am I completely off on this one? thanks. So rev matching basically.

First time out since redoing the shift motor. Machine shifts smoothly and seemed good. Still need to adjust the clutch. Not sure if I don’t understand how the ES system works, so can someone answer a few questions for me? 1) Should I be able to downshift on the fly from let’s say 5th to 1st and go down all the gears? Or is the shifting speed depended? It seems my downshifts are slow and take me holding the button before it will go and almost as if the machine won’t let me downshift until a certain speed/rpm. Is this possible ? 2) At some points I find that I am in a lower gear than I started with going through the puddle or incline. Is this thing supposed down shift on its own at points when it realizes more torque is needed? 3) Once while driving I was slanted, needed to shift down from 3rd to 2nd and it wouldn’t downshift. After hitting the button it just didn’t want to and threw the - -. Turn off machine, turn it on. Same gear it was in, still nothing. Then off and on again as I was getting ready to get the emergency shifter it went down. And worked flawlessly for the remainder of the day. While I did the shift motor I pulled the angle sensor and cleaned it and all. many tips or tricks on the ES system and shifting. This is my first bike, second time out with it. Ran well, besides this uncertainty of how perhaps the system fully operates.

So this arrived earlier today. Found a new Prefex along Travel kit for a 01-04 TRX 500. Should fit my 450 with minor modifications I Hope.

where did you squeeze a secondary battery lol? Did you see my post above about complaining on the lack of space below the seat.. and considering relocating my winch solenoids

Yah, even the shocks look new! Are they? Or are they some aftermarket option?

Your running all that off the existing Lighting Circuit lol? I guess your headlights are converted to LED so they are lower draw than the OEM stuff (3x30W) plus your steering column headlight is a LED which is less than the OEM 45W.

Thanks, but I do know how to determine the draw and the formulas. Issue is the Amazon Link lists no wattage for this particular unit. Some comments & questions asked by others indicate stuff all over the place. One guy reported its 400Watt lol.. If I knew the wattage I could determine if it will fit on the existing (10A or 15A) lighting circuit. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DW7CYTR/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza Yah well I wanted to do this and Tee right off the headlight wiring which is right below where this light will be but I'm concerned of overloading the CCT.

So last night finished up the Upper and Lower Ball Joint on one side. Went in smooth, a 36mm-3/4" drive socket works well once you grind down the teeth so it doesn't ruin the boot on the new joints. Also, picked up a small grease needle (not sure why I didn't do this before) but this allowed me to grease up the Tie Rod Ends and get grease in the boot without damaging them. The wife got me a early bday present which is a 12" Light Bar c/w wiring kit. Not sure if I want to use this wiring kit I was hoping to tie this straight into the existing light wiring and connect to the High beam (blue) wire but I'm afraid it may be too much for the circuit. The light has no indication of what the actual draw & wattage of it is.. What is your guy's thoughts? Use the provided wiring setup, with relay etc.? The under seat battery area is getting jammed full of stuff already with the winch solenoid box etc. I'm thinking of taking this and relocating it to the rear besides muffler storage compartment cubby. I just hate having extra wiring all over the place so if I avoid having to use that new wiring harness.

Wow I like these kinds of threads! Your paint job looks amazing. And that engine re-do looks brand spanking new!!

Thanks! I did spend more time on that brake arm to clean up that part. The brakes work good now. Hopefully that brake panel holds up and the JB Weld doesn't let go. My other order of business and plan for visual Replacing of the decals I have those coming Going to Sand down and buff out the plastic to hopefully bring the color to life. Painting of the Racks. Also, the tires I will see for the time being but not sure how much I want to stick with 27".

Next order of business was getting the lights properly fastened to the front end as the tabs had let go. Out came the plastic welder. Next I picked up a good 2up seat for cheap and had to do minor repairs on it for the back rest pad ot properly fasten. Installed a new 3/8s craft board and all is well. Repaired the seat foam a bit and installed a new cover over it. New Seat cover.

First order of business was Axle Boot and some Wheel Bearings. Rear Brakes

32?? hmm wow. I tried a 36 and it rubbed the boot hard I even grinding the inside teeth down. Called it quits will leave the ball joint in the freezer overnight. Also need to get the upper joint as I realized that one is bone dry and toast.

What do you guys use to push the joint back in without tearing the boot? Every socket I have rubs on the boot.. pushing them out is easy it’s getting them back in as you need to clear the boot. any advice? This is for a 04 Foreman.